Mopar1973Man

ABennin you might want to peel the protective paper off the high idle switch face plate.

Correct. The front two sensor have zero bearing on the speedometer only the rear sensor takes care of the speedometer and odometer.

I left my controller hard wired up. I just turn the solar controller off when the panels are not used. Actually if you wanted to you can leave the controller on all the time to monitor the actual battery voltage even hooked up to AC power. It will not damage the solar controller. No different than my big solar system is hooked up 24/7 to the batteries and selling power back to the city power system. The little black box on the right.

Typically if the ABS light is on then there is a problem within the ABS system be it sensors or ABS controller.

Funny part is all tail light wiring is grounded to the front left fender side shield. So there is no ground connection even back at the tail of the truck to look for.

I've seen things like Lucas Steering additives blow hose and seals because it makes the fluid too thick in cold weather. Make sure to use the proper fluid and don't add additives to the fluid.

Ok. What I would do is pull the bulb out and then carefully using test leads to place positive and negative power on the right contacts and see whats going on. If the LED's are burnt out or damaged then I guess it's time for replacement.

Got me wondering as well...

On our truck the oil pressure sender is wired to the ECM. So verify the ECM to the sender wiring. Now beyond that the oil pressure data is sent over the CCD network to the cluster. Since the rest of the cluster is working I know its not the CCD network. Oil Pressure Sensor => ECM -> [CCD Network] -> Instrument Cluster

That my next project I need to get new rubber on the truck and trailer. Quote from my tire guy in Ontario, OR is about $680 for the truck and $400 for the trailer.

I would say do as instructed in the document. Then go back in a few days and run the pattern again at final torque setting again.

Still think that's neat...

So I like my hair lighter and longer. Guys here love to pick on my hair. There is story behind it why I'm this way...

2004 should be ATF fluid.

http://www.livescience.com/32401-whats-a-penny-made-of.html So just like on ships and boat in the ocean they use zinc blocks to prevent oxidation of metals. Your solution is cheap only cost a few cents.

Welcome to the family... On your way to Montana you might want to stop by my place in New Meadows, ID... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/membermap/

More places to check out. http://cppdiesel.com/ http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ A +75 HP is a good boost in power. Most still have fairly good MPG's numbers with +75 injectors.

Hopefully you didn't mess up the stereo install and havee a wirin problem with the CCD network.

You might look back at post #3...

Did I miss something? Testing 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. Determine if DTC is set by ECM or PCM. If DTC is set by ECM, go to next step. If DTC is not set by ECM, go to step 7 . 2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor harness connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block (ground) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 6 . 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short between Dark Blue/White and Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. 4. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for continuity between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short between Black/Yellow and Light Blue/Black wires. 5. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. 6. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check Dark Blue/White wire for continuity between terminal No. 5 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM harness connector. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Dark Blue/White wire. If continuity exists, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 7. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM harness connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Check for continuity between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If continuity does not exist, go to step 9 . If continuity exists, go to next step. 8. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If continuity does not exist, test is complete. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire. 9. Ensure PCM harness connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for circuit). If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire. 10. Check Orange/Dark Blue wire for continuity between terminal No. 5 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM harness connector. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Orange/Dark Blue wire. If continuity exists, go to next step. 11. Reconnect ECM harness connector. Ensure PCM harness connectors are still disconnected. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If voltage is greater than 0.4 volt, test is complete. If voltage is 0.4 volt or less, go to next step. 12. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If continuity does not exist, replace APPS. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If continuity exists, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article.

0 to 5 ohms is normal. Now probe from one side to ground all connection should show infinite ohms in others words there is no wires shorted to ground. Make sure to have both ends (ECM and APPS) unhooked.

I'm going to modify that one for MoparMom... I've got most of that stuff in the basement.

Yeah but you do it for traction of the sandy beaches...

True but some haven't had that luck either. Depends on how much change. You can shift a key up or down from stamped.

I'll pull your phone number from on record and give you a jingle sometime...