Mopar1973Man

Still want more information... I'm looking for something like that to tap the CANBUS and/or CCD network and get more information. Could I produce somthing like this for the 24V? Seriously I'll toss my ScanGauge in a heartbeat if I could...

More information wanted. What are you using... Homemade? I want to know...

Here is one article I just remembered... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/450-valve-seal-spring-valve-replacement-24v-head

Apparently the oil is getting push past the seal into the pump if the power steering fluid is black with engine oil. I've never really paid attention to the seal placement is it riding on the input shaft or what... But some how your getting oil into the power steering. Unless the power steering system is that contaminated. Still scratching my head.

Just little things I've done has extended the life span of the front end. Like power steering flushing, adjustment of the gear box, using a grease needle and injecting grease in the joints without zerks, tire pressures, size smaller tires, etc. 242k miles now and only replaced the ball joints and the track bar. Not bad. JAG1 you'll see when you get down here.

Get this tool. Then just run TDC and remove the springs... Then change your valve seals.

Sounds like the engine oil is getting into the power steering through the front seal of the power steering pump. Sounds like you might be due for a pump change. I would flush the system out before you hook up the return lines to be sure to flush the engine oil back out.

Ever since you mentioned the lower pressures you run in the front axles I decided to tweak with mine a bit and adjust a few things like sector adjustment on the steering gear box now. This is the best the truck has ran from steering now. It very stable and tracks well now with no sawing action now. So I wanted to say "Thank You" to Wild & Free because my truck is very enjoyable to drive now and doesn’t require all those crazy mods like steering box brace or 3rd gen track bar. All factory front end parts!

Don't discount the aluminium canopies. Mine barely weights 90 pounds and I can lift it on and off by myself. The bad thing to aluminium is the frames are very weak and topper don't last long. Mines about 6 years old and the rear frame is broke. The problem why is the offroad environment kills the frame with too much flexing.

What's your fuel pressure during cranking? This will give a clue if there is air in the lines or not. Is there any external fuel leaking around the head? Injection lines or the return lines? Remember the return is at the back of the and can only be seen from under the truck. Suction leak? You'll need 2 people and pressurize the fuel tank after running. This will force fuel out a fuel line with a suction leak because now the lines are all load with fuel.

What you can do next go around. Do the reset password again and when you get the email copy and paste the password to a notepad. Then when you get logged in again you can copy and paste from notepad to change to what you want then. Sad thing is I can't see passwords even as a Admin. Scary part is most of my passwords are 64 characters long. I use a program called KeePassX to store all my passwords. For example one of my generated passwords. X=1W.!]OHtKGX7WuikGny>*KCo0i[wC#/&qHqNtj5MG=V0AWUQ;Z./Gv<={.\&l

Really nice!

Very good video. Worth keeping!

I cheated I upgrade fog / driving lights instead. Even my 96 got upgraded.

It amazing the amount of time and effort that has to go into a web site to make it work. You might want to call me and we'll talk about it more.

Just the threads. I just talked to Ed on the phone and he told me about it. So if you worried about boost leaks you can put a coating of silicone on the threads.

I used Black RTV for my setup. How about you Ed?

Correction to Ed's post. It 3,5,6 lines which is the rear set. Where 1,2,4 is the front set.

March 3, 2015 - Mileage 241,500 6 New cross over tubes installed - Vulcan Performance March 14, 2015 - Mileage 241,747 New intake plenum gasket and grid heater gaskets installed - NAPA (FPG MS95087) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9792-intake-manifold-gaskets/ http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Manifold-Gasket-Set-Intake-/_/R-FPBMS95087_0147256546

Wow! $30 bucks for a needle valve? I'll keep that under my hat for future use. Thanx for sourcing out a cheaper solution!

I just carefully picked up the larger pieces and the small one yeah you can just vacuum out.

It was time to fix some of my minor boost leaks and whistling sounds coming from the old manifold gaskets. So since Lindy wasn't busy and the gasket where their at work why not? So I got a nice dry spot to work inside and all the tools I could ever want. So I will tell you that you want to remove all the injector lines. The fuel filter has to come off (if you still have the stock fuel filter). APPS sensor has to be removed and the intake horn and grid heater of course. Take a nice sharp puddy knife and start scrapping off the old gasket. It will be baked on so take your time. Then once cleaned up I put a very fine layer of black silicone on both sides of the gasket. Re-install the plenum. At that point its just a matter of re-assembly just the way you pull it apart. What I did was place all my bolt back in there holes but as I started installing injection lines just lift out the ones that hold something. Then replace them.

This why I'm pushing for more vendor advertisement so we can lighten up on the donations again. If the income becomes stable then things can return to some form of normality. My problem is getting the time to drive to Grangeville, ID and get the artwork so I can bring it back to Riggins, ID to have the original gal do the shirts for me. Then for the stickers I've already tried once but my vector programs doesn't work with the local vinyl cutter shop. So I've got to make time and sit down with my artwork bits and re-master it on his computer which I've been given the green light. Then in the meantime I got to pay my own bills and such to stay alive so I work 6 days a week again from 8-5pm with Lindy. So my free time is really limited. I need a second "Me" or a "Mini Me" to do the running around and getting these thing done. Sad part no one lives near me. So I'm all for making shirts and stickers as well just need the free time and funds to get rolling. The stainless badges will be here soon and they will be up for sale on the store as soon as I get them. http://store.mopar1973man.com

Thanks notlimah, If you do research on Dodge/Cummins forums today majority of them now are Corporation Owned. There is only a handful of forums left that are privately owned like myself. That's easy and the newer generation truck owners can do this so easy. Just come to the site and product a article on how to fix something or how to install a product. That how the whole site was started. But sadly there is very few people that want to take the time shoot photos and write up a article on how to do something. Flow wise I've got that handled. I'm been focusing on keeping up to date on Google requirements and now I've got several search queries now where I'm in #1 position. Surprisingly enough I beat everyone vendors, CF.com and #1 position for handful or more searches. A good majority of the information can be found at least on the 1st and 2nd page of Google. https://www.google.com/webhp#q=2nd+gen+turbo+upgrade So its just a matter of getting people willing to produce articles and write ups on different products. The forum is not the strong point, it's the article database. The forum is the place the people can come together and create a writeups and verify the information. Then the author can compile this all and actually create the final article. That how 99% of my articles come to be. Like the torque converter lockup and alternator noise. Which lead to new finding and solutions as well. That's the sad part. Everyone expects everything for free from the web anymore. Like when I got the Classified Ad plugin for the site I wanted to charge a small fee for posting ads to create some income for the site. But I was meet with everyone saying that... "Why? There is CraigsList and other places to advertise for free." So money was spent for the software to make my life easier but again no profit made from it. But I still pay a 6 months maintenance fees for all this too. So this why there is a period of growing pains. This why I had to create BoD so there was more points of view and interaction with member base. But we are still trying to produce a set of "By-Laws" that will insure the future of the site by interacting with the membership pool. So all in all the membership pool and BoD will be the factor of what this site is going to be like. I already got artwork for a shirt. Which to this day I wear for travel shirt. Then I got new artwork for the windshield banner. Which can be scaled to fit a bumper or a rear window. That's another thing I learned in all this... Vector art. Thank you. Like I said long ago in this thread this whole web site was a mistake wasn't suppose to happen. That why the domain name is my nickname because it was just my personal notebook. But here I am 10 years later and growing.

I would basically check the wires from the sensor to the ECM. They should ohm out at 0-5 ohms. Then from probe to wire and other probe to ground should ohm out to "infinite" ohms (open) this just verifies the wires are not shorted to ground. I've seen only one case where new sensor and VP44 didn't fix it. But the actual ECM and crank sensor plug where bad. So every time the engine would vibrate just right the connector would wiggle and new pulse would be sensed and now throw the code for P1690 and P0336 because of loose pin connectors (not the plug itself).