Mopar1973Man

As far as what I understand of Edge products yes it does get more aggressive timing higher the level.

I've got one repainted. It's done in black paint. The other side is a decal.

Fuel Temp was at +44*F from a unheated shop. Less than 3 miles from home. Current temp when I left the house was like +27*F or so. Fuel pressure sender is on the fender. (Needled and Snubbered) If it was a gelling issues it should of happen in New Meadows at -3*F temperature where it ran just fine.

One ounce of oil for every one gallon of fuel. (128:1 ratio).

Actually look at the bottle most 2 cycle oil has a pour point of at least -40*F. Then snowmobile 2 cycle oil has pour point of at least -50*F so if normal #2 winterized diesel is round -20*F then 2 cycle oil will add but not sure how much... Might read up on PPD (Pour Point Depressants) and some of chemicals.

Some will debate that... Like you could do Opti-lube diesel additive which scores better and take less. But the price is a bit higher than 2 cycle oil but you can treat more diesel fuel. My problem is no one sells it locally and has to be freighted here. To much trouble for one product. I've got lots of 2 cycle engine so 2 cycle oil is required here at the house for weed wackers and chainsaws. But yes I'll ask any questions...

because they negate each other. 2 Cycle oil is a cetane reducer PS is a cetane booster 2 Cycle oil is a lubricity enhancer (low HFRR) PS is more of a injector cleaner (high HFRR) So after adding both you get basically nothing.

Kind of like saying you have increase wear from starting the engine without oil pressure. These truck start and run the first few seconds without oil pressure typically and go a long ways. So the VP44 is flooded with fuel for the parts I really don't think wear is a issue till its ran for a period of time without pressure.

As for tuning the pistons I use fine grade sand paper like 450-600 grit till its smooth enough fall back in easy WITHOUT the seals.

No. When the truck cold I typically hold my boost down below 10 PSI till it warms up. As for today it didn't do it at all. I fired up and left towards Riggins, ID and on issues at all.

Gotta point there. But its so rare for my truck to even do quirky things... Only I do quirky things...

I've got a dog like that... I just figure I'd toss it out there and see if anyone else had something like it.

I tend to agree to use a Holset kit as well. Even though you can get cheaper kits off Ebay and web not worth it to cut corners on quality. Personally I would just get a new gasket most likely doesn't cost much but why deal with a good rebuild and possibly have to change a manifold gasket because you cut corners again. Might as well get a gasket kit (manifold gasket, oil-return gasket, and oil o-ring for the feed line).

The key on pulse is not required. But at cranking pressure should be 7-12 PSI for good starting. Then after starting it should be 14-20 PSI after starting. So the relay trick would resolve a ECM lift pump controller. But as for 25 bump prime would be gone as for the safety shut down. But I know some people have damaged ECM and using wiper fuse to power the lift pump this would get you closer to the original design just missing a few things. I'm sure with a bit a time you could add a push button switch to give your 25 second lift pump prime set up.

Not hard a 2x4 and a bit of compressed air. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/78-brake-fluid-change

Oh I see a neat trick with that. Using a 5 pin relay you could trigger the fuelabs from the starter solenoid to be half rate during cranking and full rate at run position. Then you can rid the entire ECM control if need be. But remember the ECM safety of shut down after lose of tach signal will not occur.

Not that I know of zero error codes. Very quiet engine like usual. No excessive timing rattle.

I didn't go to Canada... Oregon. https://goo.gl/maps/GaiuR Typically step over to Oregon for shopping because there is no sales tax. No fuel starvation. Holding a steady 17 PSI. This was down around 1,500 RPMs. Like I said after warming up it never did it again. started at about 27*F here by the time I hit New Meadows, ID it was -3*F and been below the 32*F freeze mark all day. Even running 55-60 MPH through New Meadows with that -3*F temps not a peep out of the truck. Just humming along. I'll see what happens tomorrow. I gotta get fuel would you believe it it was more expensive in the big city than its back home. nearly $3 dollar a gallon for diesel but here in Riggins, ID its 2.539 nearly 50 cents less. So I limped home and just barely above tripping the low fuel light at 1/8 of tank. Even with the trip I managed 18.8 MPG for running 65 MPH most of the day in near zero temps most of the way. So as for the problem I'll see in the morning...

I typically burn through about 3 quarts to gallon of power steering fluid getting the system flushed out. I flush it out till the output line is clear fluid. As for brake fluid a quart is barely enough to load a empty system so I typically get at least 2 quarts. Brake system I pull all 4 calipers and disassemble, clean the calipers, inspect all seals, and weather boots while all 4 lines are naturally draining the system out. Then reassemble and bleed out the system. The only reason I do it this way is if you leave it all hooked up and bleed you just force the dirt to the bottom of the calipers and will cause then to bind out later on. Done this mistake once already. As for fluids I normal just use standard power steering fluid (change every 30k miles) and standard DOT 3 brake fluid (change at 30k miles). Remember being that the power steering is a unfiltered system it you choose synthetic you still have to change it at 30k miles. It's not that the fluid broke down but you have to still flush the debris out of the system. so there is nothing to gain from synthetic use in power steering.

Something odd happened this morning. I packed up to head for Ontario, OR today. So my truck was parked in a unheated shop where the temperature was 44*F. Fired up move out on the yard to load up some old tires and wheels. Yeah my old Cooper STT and white spoke rims are gone! Then parked back in the driveway. Wait for MoparMom to get together and left. Well the first 5 miles going down the road if I throttled it at all it was bucking or surging just enough that even MoparMom asked what was going on. Which I told her I didn't know. I had 17 PSI fuel pressure. Rolling light to build engine heat. But unusual to feel it surge like that. After it warmed up fully it was gone never seen it again. Even after getting cold down in Ontario, OR and firing back up ran fine. I figure I would post this up maybe some else seen or had something like this happen.

So now start from bottom up and redesign your mod's the way you want them.

Actually it designed that if the ECM no longer sees a crank signal to shut down the fuel pump.

Add Oregon to that list too now Oregon is mandated to sell B5 for diesel fuel now.

I would crawl under the driver side and look up past the body and transmission and you can see nearly all the back of the head. There is a freeze plug back there. Like CUMMINSDISELPWR said there is a return fuel rail back there. Yes even #6 injector line could be leaving a wet mark like mine is right now. If its a coolant leak take a cooling system tester and pump it up to 14-16 PSI and grab a bright flashlight and watch the back of the block it will dribble out for you on a cold block.

Sounds like a Bank's Box. You might try removing all that stuff and returning to stock and see what you get.