Mopar1973Man

I can't seem to find a rebuild kit for it. Doing some quick search on Google. Mostly finding dealers that sell the gear box.

That's odd... My lowers are not greasable but my uppers are graseable. All I can say is ball joints are not fun to do.

The spare change is typically my fall back stash for a beverage or a munchie while out and about. I typically use cash for everything rarely used debt or credit cards. Less paper trail that way.

I remember the old data plate of my 1972 Dodge Power having the Fargo logo on it as well.

Here is the P0500 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

No. The ECT fooler is for holding the 6 cylinder high idle. As long as the coolant temp is below 140*F the high idle 6 cylinder will run forever. Which the 6 cylinder mode is rig for anytime high idle use. The 3 cylinder mode is only a IAT fooler so it can't be held. It allows it to cancel when it comes up to temperature. MPG more is just a IAT fooler for warm temperature.

And the last time you cleaned your truck out was when? McDonald's whats that? We got a Subway and A&W 20 miles away. McDonald's is at least 100 mile drive.

Exactly. Like my own rig I've got no heaters on the filter but never experienced a gel filter. I'm very picky about fuel sources.

Ok. back to the diagnostic. So it seem you missing a resistor. I'm going to notify Ed Grafton to take a peek here.

Moving a chunk of thread giving it own thread..

Well today I finally gather up my ash tray from 2002 and then stopped by the 1996 and dump it into the 2002 ash tray. It was nearly overflowing with just silver coins. So I sat down sort and rolled everything up and there was quite a bit of spare change floating around between two truck ash trays. Total capacity of the ash tray was $48.18 that I counted out.

Like again this morning build a fire in the main house room temperature is about 65*F inside and about 32*F outside. Built the fire come up stairs set the timer for 5-6 minutes. Then enjoy a bit of morning tea and the computer. DING! Go back down stairs and the stack pyrometer is about 1,400 to 1,600*F. Now close it down. Enjoy the rest of my morning. Now when I get done with my shower I step over to the stove and spin the air vents wide open again. While I'm getting dressed and finished up I'm monitoring the pyrometer to reach 1,600 again. Then shut it down. This method give the stack a good heating to get started. Then allow the entire stack to heat up and then cook it the second time. Sometimes I open it up again in the evenings and cook it once more before bedtime. Bad part is even with all this I still end up plugging the top of the chimney in Jan or Feb. This year I might make it.

You might contact Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) and chat with him over the issue. He'll most likely have a resolution to the problem. I've also got the diagnostic page in the article database. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/53-high-idle-mod-diagnostic

Or... 3,000 PSI power washer.

The high idle kits are going to handed back to me for production. All future production of the Mopar1973Man.Com High Idle Kits will be produced right here in Idaho. As soon as I get all the parts and pieces from Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) I'll start producing them. So I know some of you are hoping for more to be produced and seeing DAP running out of the flat mount version. So hang in there more to come very very soon.

Lagging wait to start light is point to ECM troubles. But typically the lag happens regardless of outside temperature. So I'm not sure what to say.

I tend to agree. The needle is much easier to read over the digital which you must focus your attention to and comprehend what your looking at. Old school motorcycle racing we use to twist the tach gauge around till the red line was straight up. When the needle was straight up your at redline. Or temp gauge straight up then your overheating. You didn't need to look for numbers just needle position. Like my new set of ISSPro gauges I'm more in love with the red light function.

I normally just pull the hoist ring out. Then I can reach in. I've also found out if you pull the valve cover you can get in there really easy then.

You've got to be kidding. That tiny car could never pull that massive trailer around safely.

Back in the shadows...

Batteries only freeze if discharged. So as long as the batteries are fully charged they will not freeze.

I just reach back and pop the connector off. I've also got big gorilla hands too.

IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse. It's the one in the funky clip. This fusee powers the OBDII port.

Here is the acronym hover feature.

Yeah I learned that lesson. Now I pull up in front of the fire station door so the building is blocking the wind.