Mopar1973Man

Would be nice to know hat in the tube. Is the another version of the magnet tied to the fuel line idea? Or is that a hollow tube with a fancy label?

For what ever reason my boost gauge will climb extremely fast to 35-36 pounds... The POP the wastegate falls about 2-3 pounds then rises up to 34-35 PSI and holds solid. But this all happens with 1-2 seconds and going from 55 MPH to over 70 MPH in no time flat. The EGT's typically barely make 1,300*F no if I hold on to it going higher in speed I can hit 1,400*F but now I'm going stupid fast.

You bring up another subject of the AirDog system I don't like... The fact that every thing is cut and created to mount only in one spot. What happens if you want to custom mount the pump in the box skin? Or maybe move it to behind the transfer case like mine? Can't be done because of the "Quick Connect System" Not every one want a AirDog pump mounted is their location.

I forgot the HY35 you have to use a wastegate j hook.

Adjustable boost elbow or just purchase a Edge Products boost elbow that is pre-set.

Ahhh... Ok. I'm still playing catch up to a degree.

Hold the power switch for 3 seconds and release put you in sub-level mode. To reset the Edge Comp just try the key off. Then next power cycle it boots back up.

I would make sure you not pulling excessively on thee screws. It does work better with a partner help hold the tape measure between points.

Another thought. You both (Cowboy and Nick) need to verify how far the stock MAP sensor is good for also how far is your exhaust pressure sensor is good for? Won't do any good to build a software expecting higher numbers than thee sensors are capable of reading accurately.

HX35 Turbo is good to 35 PSI HY35 Turbo is good to 32 PSI It's based on the exhaust housing or the choke point of the turbo.

Ummm... I'm blonde by choice. My actual hair color is brown but I due to head in and be streaked (bleached) so I have a bit of blonde added. Bring on the jokes... Yankneck he's a blonde too.

You might want to use compressed air to push the pistons out next time.

White lithium grease is what we use quite a bit of at the shop (Lindy's). Matter of fact I grab the can of PB blaster and Lindy stopped me and told me to use the white lithium grease. Shake the can well and spray everything very well. You'll be surprised it will stick to everything very well and stay lubricated for months into the future. Stopped a customer's door from squeaking.

Possible... I'm not saying it is or isn't just be open minded. Either way I would be looking at the fuel system first and do some bench testing. Like is there any error codes currently. Fuel pressure (idle to WOT at highway speed) What your injectors like currently? Mileage? Pop test? 7 x 0.010 is roughly a 100 HP injector using this information. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6494-injector-sizes-and-turbo-discussion/

Just looking at your post again and doing the backward calculation to your stated pressures. Using 3,042 Pound Rating at 80 PSI maximum pressure. 55 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.68 * 3,042 = 2,068 * 2 = 4,137 pounds on your front axle 60 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.75 * 3,042 = 2,281 * 2 = 4,563 Pounds on your rear axle (empty) 75 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.93 * 3,042 = 2,851 * 2 = 5,703 Pounds on the rear axle (loaded) For a total of 8,700 (empty) or 9,840 pounds (loaded). Getting a wee bit heavy aren't we Bill... Of course this is backwards calculating the tire pressure back to weights.

So I tried it and liked it. I dropped from the calculated 58 PSI in the front to 53 PSI which is -5 from calc'ed. Then dropped the rear the same -5 from calc'ed I think its at 39 PSI and it tracks very well now. I like it! Thanks Bill! Front axle weight 4,410 Rear Axle weight 3,340 Total 7,750

Made a trip south to get some stuff today. Misfire is only on a fully heated engine (190-195*F of coolant). More pronounced after a long uphill climb with high EGT's 800-1000*F. All you need to do to cancel the miss is either put your foot heavy on the brake heavy or turn on the A/C and its gone. If left to idle for extended period say 10 minutes or longer it will go away. If you shut down the engine for all of 1-2 minutes and start again its gone too.

Something is wore out for it not being able to pull enough to release. You might have to pull the latch out and inspect closer.

That can be cleaned up. It the outer weather boot that was damaged and needs replacing.

According to Cummins the OE cross over tubes have been superseded twice now. What has changed I don't know.

Might read my thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9721-odd-injector-misfire/

Mine is tight still too. I check the steering box adjustment off and on and adjust as needed during the inspections. But I don't have the flex that people seem to have the require the steering brace. The 1996 is so darn touchy just breathe on the steering wheel it darts the direction you steered. 2002 is a bit more relaxed and not as touchy.

I've got one small crack started in my 2002. But my 1996 Dodge is crack free yet. Still as for the Blue Chip box it not like its a common place performance box like Edge Products or Quadzilla.

Just flip the 240k on the clock for the 2002 Dodge Cummins. Heck even the 96 Dodge Ram is heading for 159k miles.

Heck the chain is worth at least $15 bucks...