Mopar1973Man

Some poor soul found out on a VW...

Yea I did the same thing the lower joint first because of the press rod sticking up.

I would base any re-manufacturer by there warranty and how fast they are willing to make thing right. I've seen lots claim 1 year but if there is a problem you get shoved on the back burner. Also remember the ECM is only capable a certain amount of flashes before the PROM gives up. It rated somewhere in the thousands. Unknown how many have been done to a reman ECM.

Being the ECM is the failure may sure the alternator isn't the cause either.

From what is typical you would fill with GAS or upright on the lo side only.

I advise against this... Good way to kill your batteries without knowing it. What happens in most start out with a warm batteries and mix up baking soda and op it on everything. The rinse it off with a cold water garden hose. What happens next is the battery creates a mild vacuum and draws in a few drops of baking soda solution into the battery cells. So doing this a few times you will kill your batteries in a short span. I normally take a plastic brush and water scrub the loose stuff off and the clean it up with a wire brush getting the lead shiny again. Then treat it with engine oil. Q: What is the only materials that sulphuric acid will not eat? A: Plastic and Glass Q: What is plastic made from? A: Oil...

Use to have a CAT stove. It didn't last long. Then we had one of those reburn stove that used air injection to reburn the smoke before it left the stove. It didn't last long either. Then the "Stove That Jack Built" This beast has no smog BS just heavy gauge steel box with a blower to circulate air. Not quite big enough to hold fire all night but it only requires 3/4 of a turn and the air doors to maintain 75-80*F temps upstairs. 1 full turn can run you out of the house at better than 85*F if your not careful. I've made the mistake a few times and left it at 1 turn and had it roasting hot upstairs in the bedroom till your sweating in the bed. Like right now I've got the blower unplugged and the air at 3/4 of turn nice cozy 77*F here at my desk.

I use a bucket of hot water for discharging the cans into the system. If your waiting for the gas to generate and flow you might be in for a long wait been there done that. I typically use hot water to push it into the system. Most Dodge trucks need three 12oz cans. That roughly speaking. I normally tune and tweak the pressures to keep the compressor running solid. But I've never had to jumper a compressor yet to fill it.

This is messy but... You could loosen the fuel filter lid and taking a rag and a air gun and blowing some pressure to the fuel tank to verify the fuel can flow to the filter and there is no blockage. As for flow you could open a fuel line up and route into a bucket or similar and turn the key on and see what comes out for flow. Another way is to measure fuel pressure at key on and the continue to watch as you start if the pressure falls out then the lift pump supply volume can't keep up with the demand volume hence a fall in pressure. There is always more ways to skin a cat...

Assuming the RV is plugged into 120VAC as well. The RV converter might be bad and boiling your batteries out. Double check the function of the RV converter.

I would clean the condenser really good with simple green and a high pressure washer. Do this several times. You be surprised of how much bugs and junk get pack in. How the fins are they all bent up? Straighten them out if so. Fan clutch only comes into effect when the coolant temp rises over 210*F then it locks up. Beyond that it should be free spooling. I'm curious what pressures your seeing? (Lo and Hi) Your 90+ temps down in Texas are just as much as our 105-115*F here in Riggins, ID. But I still can hold a consistent 40*F at idle in 100+ heat.

Like I try to inform people is the whole design of ATF has changed from 1970's to today. They are not even close in design any longer. So yes back in the 1970's it was fine to to add ATF to the fuel or to a filter. Today ATF is so different it doesn't burn correctly. Then "We've always done it that way" phrase... I really get wound up too over that. Just because back in the old days it was common to do things doesn't mean that today's engine will tolerate that. Like using ether, ATF, all kinds of "We've always done it that way". It will come back to bite you eventually.

Congrads. Those are some pretty big shoes your putting on.

Yankneck696 would be a good one to talk to about those vehicles.

Rancherman what are you doing? I don't have half the problems you do? I hitch up the 20 ton splitter to the ATV driver over to the wood pile. Fire up the wood splitter and proceed to split wood. If the rounds are to heavy to lift no problem put the splitter in vertical mode and driver the splitter to the round. Sit down and spit it up. Getting wood in your eyes? You really got me baffled with that one.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/size/285/70/17/OE/BNW/all-terrain-t-a-ko/tire-details#techspecs Something is weird here how can a Load Range D be the same weight class of a Load Range E???

Might be the speed rating.

That's the problem we have here now. With a wood burning stove you have to be at home to keep the house warm. So during the day when I take off for work MoparMom can tend the fire rather easy. But now if we want to leave for Boise for a day or over night that's a problem because there is no other form of heat really. So during the winter time we are confined to the house for the most part. Would be nice to have a thermostat and walk away. But we don't so there is the downside to wood burning as a primary heat. I'm sure I could buy a few oil radiator heaters and place them around the house but that might get expensive fast. I'm sure the inverter won't like that long. With how mild the weather this winter I'm going to be way ahead on firewood too. I'm out splitting up wood last few days being the weather is warm and dry so get the last few rounds split up and stacked. I'm attempting to clean up the wood splitting area.

Funny part after pulling apart a VP44 the mechanical part is really easy to rebuild its just the calibration that is the hang up.

I would gladly upgrade if there was a upgrade turbo that accepted the Jacobs Exhaust brake on the back.

This is why relocation of the wiring or wrapping with tin foil won't work. The wiring would have to be like a CB coax that has a shielded jacket with reference to ground. So any AC production can be absorbed into any wire or circuit. Hence why BD noise filter works to filter the power into the PCM but leaves the rest of the electric system to fry from AC noise.

Just out of burning want to know. I called my local tire guy in Ontario, OR and talked to him about the whole BB idea. He typically sells silicone beads for this purpose. But never had a complaint about balance issue. I asked him about steel BB used in air rifles and he didn't see a reason why it wouldn't work. Just measure out the proper amount and add them to the tire. So I'm going to see about getting some BB's and going that route.

I've seen a few people make use of a window in a RV for a pellet stove. If your using insulated pipe build a filler board for the window gap then you could have a pellet stove in your RV fairly easy.

Some how I see getting firewood the old fashion way cheaper. Seem like a lot of work and fuel to do this but really when I look at how much really its fairly cheap. So now with the BigTex trailer if I make 5 trips to the forest I've got 10 cords of wood. I can make two trips in one day if I push so say 5 days worth of harvesting. Maybe at the worst 1 to 1.5 tanks of diesel depending on how far I want to go. Wood can be split by hand or by machine. I might use 1 gallon of gasoline for 4-5 cords of splitting. Bonus is the wood stove doesn't require any power to operate and will produce heat regardless. Also wood stove will burn anything you can fit in the door of the stove and has no requirement of a particular pellet. I can burn wood, paper, cardboard, and many other things in a wood stove. So I see my wood stove as a privacy measure were I can burn sensitive documents. I can cook from the top of it. Dispose of organic waste (paper, cardboard, etc.) instead of filling a dumpster 5 miles away. I would love to have the thermostat luxury of AH64ID. But that's just not a function of a wood stove.

No cap at all. Just straight pipe to the top of the brick liner.