Mopar1973Man

Same here it makes me think trans temp is a bit too high. I wonder if the torque converter is slipping.

Stock 3" exhaust, +50HP injectors, BHAF, and Edge Comp... I can pull most 6-7% grades in 4th at 55 MPH still be well below 1,200*F.

Thing is I would contact the station owner. He/she should know what they are selling as for employees they are typically uneducated or don't care. You could see about getting a barrel of PPD (pour point depressant) and mix your own fuel at home. http://www.aglandsd.net/app/download/957479632/2014+Winter+Fuels+Guide_LR10151+(2).pdf

The truck was delivered to Alpine Automotive tonight. As soon as I get some information from Steve or Tracy I'll let you all know. But I know I could of just bought a Governor Pressure sensor. Like I said I wanted to have it looked at for all wearable items and put back in tip top shape. What good would it be to replace the Governor pressure sensor and then have a band or torque converter give up? So its being inspected.

Correction... Welcome to the trouble free side of electric gauges if installed properly. I've been picked on about that for some time now. The only reason I jump in on it was to take on another challenge of figuring out electric gauges and what causes the fuel pressure sender to fail. I still say the most trouble free set of gauges is still mechanical gauges like ISSPro EV's.

Edge Comp and Edge Juice are the same for software. Just Edge Juice has the gauges and toyz which I don't suggest. The alarms and limits on the Edge Juice tend to create poor performance because most owners mis-set or mis-use the features. So I typically tell owners to turn all that off to get back to Edge Comp type performance. As for any washable air filter I suggest against too many good engine ruined by a washable filter. There is no way for a owner to know when the filter has failed to filter. So most people hang on to the filter way too long and end up dusting out the engine. BHAF is fine for most or use your stock air box. As for gauges I tend to favor the mechanical gauges more so but I'm working with ISSPro gauges and really impressed wit the EV2's series which are electric.

If you got gauges (fuel pressure, pyrometer, boost) your good to go. Yes it would work just fine. I'm close to you in design check my link in my signature. Personally, I would take that out and throw it under the tire.

It's soaking wet and raining. I don't have a hunting license. Then on top of it I work 6 days a week.

An atheist was seated next to a little girl on an airplane and he turned to her and asked, "Do you want to talk? Flights go quicker if you strike up a conversation with your fellow passenger." The little girl, who had just started to read her book, replied to the total stranger, "What would you want to talk about?" "Oh, I don't know," said the atheist. "How about why there is no God, or no Heaven or Hell, or no life after death?" as he smiled smugly. "Okay," she said. "Those could be interesting topics but let me ask you a question first. A horse, a cow, and a deer all eat the same stuff - grass. Yet a deer excretes little pellets, while a cow turns out a flat patty, but a horse produces clumps. Why do you suppose that is?" The atheist, visibly surprised by the little girl's intelligence, thinks about it and says, "Hmmm, I actually have no idea." To which the little girl replies, "Well then, do you really feel qualified to discuss God, Heaven and Hell, or life after death, when you don't know S h i t?" And then she went back to reading her book.

MoparMom says, "No hunting from the deck!" If I was to go hunting for a turkey I'd have to go up behind the house.

Did you test the injectors to see the spray pattern or pop pressures? Do you have air in your fuel? You might hook up a piece of clear tubing and loop it on the windshield and see if there is any air bubbles.

It seem like the ol' 1996 is finally giving me some grief. No longer have 1st gear unless I manual shift to 1 or 2 gear then it engages 1st gear. But I'm getting 2 error codes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/385-p1762-gov-press-sen-offset-volts-too-low-or-high http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/387-p1764-governor-pressure-sensor-volts-too-low With the amount of miles I've got on the truck at 156k and it the original transmission I'm opting to let Lindy's friend in McCall, ID do the service work to the transmission. If he sees anything else while the pan is off then he can go through and fix it. I know the Governor Pressure Sensor is the problem and most likely failed. But what other wearable parts and solenoids could there be? I'm not automatic trans man at all. Alpine Auto https://plus.google.com/102270410291765694865/about?gl=us&hl=en

So which one should I take?

Go to my computer and look at the photos. Then select them on the other window and upload. I have to do the very same thing even with Ubuntu Linux.

24V guys stepping in here... Like with 24V engine I only suggest 4-6 PSI over design pressure this allows for buffer room to keeping your minimum pressure met at WOT runs. If you getting pressure fall out during WOT I would typical suggest looking for restrictions like plugged fuel filter, kink line, weak pump etc. But really there should be no reason for over pressurizing the system to over design failure. We had guys running old mechanical lift pump from 12V's running up to 40 PSI on a 24V and the risk you take is popping the front seal out of the VP44 well in your case the CP3. So to the OP I would get a gauge in the cab ASAP then tone the pressure down a wee bit and get back to a normal range.

Correct that is my Frantz Bypass filter return line. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/garage/vehicle/2-dodge-ram-2500/?tab=mods&mod_id=12

As provided by the site. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=core&module=help&do=01&HID=8

Try either... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/2285-me78569/ or http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/892-yankneck696/ Those two guys would know what can be used or not. Being the company went out of business I really doubt there is going to be much for parts.

Cummins kit if I remember right doesn't have any instructions just the seals. Only paid $13 bucks for it.

Ahhh... Just pull the nails out of the ash and straighten again. (Recycle-Reuse!)

Just for fun I hauled out this even shot a quick bit of video in 640x480 29 fps. I could of cranked it up in HD mode and really sucked up the memory card. But I wanted to see what good old 640x480 would do. It would give me 2 hours of video time and reduce the file size of the video. It's a bit grainy after YouTube process again but that what its all about doing test runs right?

I'm not looking forward to being stabbed in the back when I roll into town Monday morning to get fuel. I'm sure its still $3.759 yet.

With my 3000 PSI washer I tend to keep at least 1 foot from the radiators and coolers. But there is nothing better than removing them and getting the job done correctly.

Let's hear them. I thought I had a vacuum pump thread but I guess not.

Hmmm... The only thing I would say that I'm doing different that all the past is the main oil filter is NAPA filter. I might have to go back up to Grangeville, ID to the Cummins shop and get a few Fleetguard filters.