Mopar1973Man

Not bad. Just slice the hose peel the old push lock's out and then re-insert them in the new line. Maybe one hour to do.

Smaller voltage batteries typically have more amp/hour power. Where single 12V batteries typically have less... http://www.trojanbattery.com/markets/renewable-energy/ http://www.loveyourrv.com/trojan-battery/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkO7HJFvp5o

Currently for my truck vs. axle weights... 4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 PSI (Front tires currently set to 55 PSI) 3260 / 2 = 1630 / 3042 = 0.53 x 80 = 42.8 PSI (Rear tires currently set to 45 PSI) 4400 + 3260 = 7660 pound truck.

No, not locally. I would have to call down to Ontario, OR or Boise, ID for a good wrecking yard to see if I could fix such a animal. Most of the local yards have crushed everything and gone belly up and closed their doors. But on another note I'm not really wanting to do all the work of changing dashes to have the new dash to be on its last leg too. Be my luck... (Murphy's Law) I also keep mine indoors too except when at work. But every weekend I wash it all down and clean the interior too.

Well it came to bite me with age now. All my original AirDog hoses from way back in 2005 (I think) now started a leak on the line between the stock filter to the VP44. Most likely from being messed with during the gauge install. So the truck is parked for the time being and Eric is sending me a 14 foot roll of Parker Fuel line for my truck I'm going to replace all my fuel lines.

Well my next long term project is going to be the dash. Right now I'm trying to resolve my fuel system problem. (Another thread).

I don't miss my Cooper STT's at all. What you need to do now is weight the front and rear axle and readjust your tire pressures. Use my formula and get a baseline pressure for your weight. If you want more traction reduce the math by 5 PSI. Slightly softer tire typically does much better at traction but a slightly firmer tire typically does better for MPG's. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/354-tire-inflation-formula

Huh? Both my DiPricol mechanical fuel pressure gauge and my ISSPro Electric gauge doesn't even vary at all. Rock solid idle pressure. Only drops 1 PSI cruising the highway.

Interesting... http://www.raceme.eu Turn off the EGR system without removing ANY parts Read / Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes Removes the DPF system and ALL related sensors (nothing needs to go into the race exhaust or be plugged in) Allows removal of the entire EGR system including cooler without any trouble codes Late injection events (post inj) disabled for best economy Customizable injection timings for more economy and/or power Speedometer recalibration for use of non-stock size tires Tune engine with HP increases of up to 120HP in 3 stages 40/80/120hp Stage 0 has stock power without EGR/DPF and no options, simply stock for the careful user Free Internet updateable via our website with our newest software Cab and Chassis models are also backed Warning Use the tuner only after removing DPF System Warning

Hua? You sure do have a way to recharge the batteries. You've got a wonderful Cummins powered Bosch/ND alternator that will easily recharge your batteries on your RV. Just plug in your trailer cord and fire up the truck. It will recharge the house batteries. This is for future reference instead of being a total miser now you can live and relax. As for the Big Fish that is nice... Big ol' Rainbow Trout...

On the contaminated fuel thing... I would open the filter housing and look down at the bottom with a flash light. I've seen a few trucks locally with enough dirt in the bottom to cover the bottom of the filter housing. Just because your changing filter make sure the bottom is cleaned out too. If you have to pull the housing to do it. One local boy had changed his filter and didn't clean the dirt out and complained of low power and hard starting after being out in the hills bouncing around.

I wonder if the flapping sound was turbo bark. But the almost stalling has me stumped a bit unless the APPS sensor is not getting to Idle Position and setting the IVS.

Error Codes? Fuel Filter? (Yea, I know your pressure sounds good.) Turbo issues? Air Filter plugged up?

(Fly on the wall) I'm watching and learning.

Last trip to Ontario OR and back... Got $50 bucks of diesel in Weiser, ID. Running 60-65 MPH. But there is a small difference from Edge EZ and Edge Comp. MPG = Instant MPG Cmg = Current MPG for the Day Tmg = Total MPG for the tank Dte = Distance to Empty

My personal favorite is the Edge Comp. Best of both worlds plenty of power and better MPG's. The comp allows for in cab adjustment of power (25 levels) vs. EZ that is only 3 setting and mounted under the hood. http://edgeproducts.com/products/1998-5-2000-dodge-24-v-ez-5-9l--30200/ http://edgeproducts.com/products/1998-5-2000-dodge-24-v-comp-5-9l--30300/

Here is what I used to re-treat my roof on my RV. As for the tears or damage you should use a self-leveling Dicor sealant. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dicor-white-rubber-roof-acrylic-coating-gallon/32151

A lot of people tow 4 wheel drive vehicles behind RV's and over the road trucks and typically just toss the transfer case in neutral and tow on.

Correction... Just think though the money the oil companies, federal taxes, state taxes and special interest groups would lose if this took place. Like where I work at with Lindy the Landlord (Mike) has a shop full of collectable cars. I look at simple machine that we came from back in 1960-1970's to todays junk where you can even find the engine any longer so it meets EPA rules. The fact is that the better the efficiency of the vehicle, then less fuel your going to burn and less emissions (smog) your going to create. So I actually look back and forth between what we had back in the 1960-1970's to what we have in the 2000's is a utter and complete joke. Great ideas with computers and such but once again if the vehicles were efficient there wouldn't be any pollution nor any profit for others listed above.

Silly question why doesn't this trick come stock. Why do we have to add all the stuff we do to make things better? Because the EPA and smog rules. The government can careless if we efficient but as long as we meet EPA rule then they are happy. Just like the DPF's and EGR valves... Flash is only required for the high idle feature.

All right here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9042-gauge-time-isspro-ev2s/

Little Youtube searching...

Now that I've done the electronic gauges wit electric sender lets see how good I did and if I'll have any problems with my setup. I kept my needle valve, added the snubber as supplied with the ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge and also remote mounted the sender to the fender. (The old vibration story. ) All my tubing is still 1/8 air brake line. So far I've had zero issue with bouncing gauge reading and still right on the 16-17 PSI just like my old DiPricol gauge did for 10 years. But I've barely got the system setup so let some time go by and we'll see. But I'm also still leaning on the idea of cavitation with none returning pump vs. returning pump like my old AirDog.

Hey Randy, Pop testing injectors is typically free. It's only when the injector has to be tuned is when money comes out of pocket. Usually about $9 to $15 a injector. Through DAP its $71.50 a injector for RV275's. Through Vulcan Performance its $70.60 per injector.

I want to hear more... How about installing and fitting? How using what materials?