Mopar1973Man

It's official... The 2002 Dodge is parked till further notice. I've now moved all my fire gear and stuff over to 1996 Dodge and going to be driving it. Rumor has it that price of gasoline is coming down again but diesel will remain at 3.759... Ugh... So even after doing the math its cheaper to drive the gasser. I went through and clean the truck up, vacuumed, check the fluids and moved my ScanGauge II over and reset it. (233% offset for the gasser and 15.2% for the diesel). Even moved the Garmin GPS over as well.

Ok... So explain why diesel prices are higher in Ontario, OR and Boise, ID then a little piss ant town of Riggins, ID? I was seeing 3.839 to 3.899 for diesel but come home I can get diesel for 3.759 in Riggins, ID. Doesn't make much sense to me. But gasoline is falling like a anvil of the Empire State Building.

With a bit more fuel a HX35W spools up quite rapidly.

I still don't feel the VP44 has anything to do with the issue I still think at this point your injectors are more of a cause.

Boy I would love to have that big piece for RV or utility trailer tongue blocks.

No. The Alternator fuse is hooked at the head of the main bus going into the PDC so it has the illusion of the alternator and PDC both. The black lead on the alternator should be dead without a fuse in place. The red lead terminal is the battery supply and also powers the PDC main bus. So now the loads as shown above break off in separate fuses. Then break off again to the Cab fuse panel too.

Still doesn't resolve the mechanical issue. Boost is really easy to build on these truck so when the boost rises above 20 PSI the fueling map starts to defuel. So not having a proper module with boost fooler your going to see P0234 codes. But its still wise to have working wastegate. You don't want to over rev the turbo charger and do damage. For HX35W 35 PSI is about as far as you can go with it and then your drive pressure starts rising or in other words you hit your choke point.

Might toss a classified ad for wanted... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/

From the alternator fuse everything else is powered in the PDC so I would pull one fuse and probe each fuse socket with the amperage meter. When you find the socket drawing the heavy load then you at least know what circuit. Then after the PDC then move to the in-cab fuse panel.

Some got lucky by removing the turbo and removing the wastegate motor. Then carefully using penetrating oil and lightly tapping the arm open to free it. While the wastegate motor is off you can test it will compressed air too. Just set it for 20 PSI and the motor should push out and not leak.

Most the time I typically find someone posting "Just turn it down a bit." Makes me chuckle typically like myself I've got +50HP injectors and run the Edge Comp on 5x3. But for the sake of testing what happens if you turn it off. Like if I was towing up hill and turn off the Edge Comp there is sudden drop in power but the ECM will throttle back up to hold speed. Typically there is no difference in temperature. My typical method of EGT control is slow down, gear down from 5th to 4th and run the tach at about 2,000 to 2,100 RPM's and typically the EGT's drop to 1,000 to 1,100*F on most all 6-7% grades here in Idaho. Just food for thought...

Most people wig out when they first hear the 3 cylinder high idle function.

What I thought. P0234 is rusted wastegate.

That's one way to control body rust. Like mine is going to remain parked till diesel prices come back down.

If the IVS switch is grounded for idle then the APPS voltage is ignored and the idle software is used. Not if the IVS is ground for Throttling then the APPS sensor voltage is used and set the engine RPM to match. All based on IVS switch depends on which leg is grounded or not.

Then pull each fuse one at a time and measure amp draw across each fuse socket you pull out.

You make me sick... ... and people wonder why I turned into Mr. Economy Diesel or Hyper-miler...

Like comparing the 96 to 02 for distance and fuel prices they are nearly the same to drive.

What the heck is going on with fuel prices you keep hearing about how the prices are going to come down. Ok here where I'm at in Central Idaho the price of diesel is still 3.759 and not changed. But unleaded gasoline has now pushed lower to 2.939 as of today. I'm going to have to park the Cummins and start driving the V8 again. But if the price of crude is going down should both diesel and gasoline be going down equally?

I noticed that too you coolant temp is way too low for optimal engine performance. Should be 190-195*F or just slight to the right of the 190*F mark.

I found this sign in a Winger's Restaurant in Ontario, OR and thought about you...

I curious if you have a boost issue and leaning against the P0234 code but not tripped it yet. You didn't mention any modules so I'm wondering.

Always have the alternator bench tested before you leave the store. I've heard this so many time to come home install their new alternator and find they got another bad alternator.

I tend to agree with AH64ID on the front tire pressures. Everything math wise at least for 4,400 pounds typically put you up around 55-65 PSI. It might also account for the lower MPG numbers being you pushing the front axle more so.

I'm lucky where I live with all the distance from everything. So I've got just about 15 miles to work by about 5-7 miles I can typically start getting heat (south Pollock) but 8-9 miles I'm at full 190*F temperature (north Pollock). Then if I go the other way to McCall to the store then I've got a grade to climb to get out the canyon. No problem there I'm fully warmed up typically in under 5 miles from the house. So mountain living with a diesel you can most certain hit full temp within a few miles typically. This is of course with full cover of the grill area.