Mopar1973Man

Blocking the grill out will increase your IAT temps roughly 10-15*F giving a small boost to MPG. Like Wild and Free said its based on local weather. Like me I can bounce between +40*F to -20*F in 50 miles of driving.

I took care of my cables and batteries from day one so my cable are still in excellent condition and no replace or modification required.

You are so mean...

Took away my fun.

Thank you... Perfect!

Something like http://www.sportco.com/store/pc/Daisy-2-400-Count-BBs-p79841.htm?gclid=COCwo5WOv8ICFc1ffgodNmEAsA http://www.amazon.com/Crosman-Copperhead-Copper-Coated-Bottle/dp/B000HKKY7M

??? Something doesn't add up. They assembled that shaft into that hydrobooster with a seal. I'm sure there is a way to remove it again. Clip, pin, screw, bolt something to separate.

Sounds interesting that for sure. I've heard of the ceramic beads and even heard of putting anti-freeze in tires for balancing agent. Steel BBs sound good I just wasn't sure if the steel cause a sandblasting damage to the wheel or the tires from rolling inside the tires? Technically if the steel BB's where smooth and clean then I don't see any problems for a daily driver rigs.

PREMIUM UPGRADED Blue Chip Rebuilt VP44 Injection Pump $1850.00 Rather high price... CPP is $995 right now and he shows they are place on the Bosch test stand but nothing said about new PSG used or not? You might ask. If you do find out let us know.

I'm interested. How about damage to aluminium wheels from the constant fall out of steel BB's in a slow speeds?

Yeah it just too far up. Like I said normal should be 0.01 to 0.02. You really close to getting the 0.10 mark time for a change of alternator...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm Possible Causes No Response To PCM Open CCD BUS Circuit From PCM To Data Link Connector Open CCD BUS (-) Circuit From PCM To Data Link Connector Open Ground Circuit PCM

I would say go down to a wrecking yard and find a different front seats. There is only like a few years that didn't have the module which is like my year no seat belt module no wiring not BS.

I got one for you. This happened day before yesterday at the shop. Lindy shows up and he's got a door release handle to install in Chevy pickup. Get the door all tore down to the frame and get the old broken handle off. The open the package and finds its RH door handle and not the LH door handle. Oh! Was he pissed off. So he gets Stephanie his wife to order the correct part. So 2 days to install one simple door handle.

But it should be on a different circuit though. Electric seats are on a circuit breaker and the seat belt module should be on a normal fuse.

Cluster seem to function correctly and didn't throw any codes during the test. typically it would throw a 3 digit code. (900 to 999)

Getting marginal. I wish there was a diode kit for our alternators. It would be nice to just purchase the diode pack and replace it. Normal good diode should be 0.01 to 0.02. Your 0.08 is very concerning.

Can't see the video you'll have to post it on youtube. I don't need all these advertiser snooping on what I looking at. (listed in black bar at the bottom).

Could you post your video and pictures somewhere else photobucket is way too deep in snooping scripts and such my browser just don't like it.

I'm not exactly willing to say the VP44 is the cause yet. But I'm trying to think on single cylinder logic. Because if the VP44 typically is dead or dying then all cylinders are typically affected. But at what point does it turn independent is right after the rotor of the VP44 and entering the DV (Delivery Valves) then its separated system for each cylinder. I'm still trying to think it out as a single cylinder theory (intake air, compress, fuel is injected, BOOM!, exhaust and repeat.) This is why I can't quite say VP44 yet. Because 5 other cylinders are still working. So with compression in the 400 PSI realm, new injectors and drilled out crossover tubes I'm really starting to scratch my head. I'm thinking alone the lines of JL Welding and his problems. His wouldn't miss right away it took time for the piston to heat up and the crack would open up and allow compression to fade. Then the misfire would start. So what conditions do you have to have to get the miss fire?

Yes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Heater treater is for the blend door on the heater core. Correct if the vacuum is too weak or nothing at all you get DEFroster only. Most likely what happen is the A/C evaporator is plugged with dirt. Common issue where the evaporator sweats and travel dirt roads and presto a caked up brick. If you replace it make sure to use only MAX A/C if in dusty areas. No. Just plastic to plastic seal. It could be from the vent doors which are covered with a sealing foam or the sealing foam around the evaporator.

First thing is double checking the wiring between the ECM and the VP44. Wiring is fairly straight forward (pun intended!)... As for the P1689 code again I would be looking at... Fuel pump relay in the PDC. Good battery cables both positive and negative. Being the VP44 ground is on the battery cable not the body. Double checking the AC noise levels from the alternator. Being the alternator could be causing the failures of the electronics.

Compression test was good. Injectors are not the cause. Ok. Back up a second. Thinking out loud here. Now diesel engine ignites fuel by heat of compression (autoignition temperature). Fuel has to be sprayed in time by the injection pump and injector. If there was a high pressure leak it could cause the injector to fire late or not at all. But most leaks occur inside the head. If it was a pissy injector Ed's injectors just ruled that out. I know there is other things like delivery valves on the VP44 injection pump. Crossover tubes I think you said you replace one or all.