Mopar1973Man

Some got lucky by removing the turbo and removing the wastegate motor. Then carefully using penetrating oil and lightly tapping the arm open to free it. While the wastegate motor is off you can test it will compressed air too. Just set it for 20 PSI and the motor should push out and not leak.

Most the time I typically find someone posting "Just turn it down a bit." Makes me chuckle typically like myself I've got +50HP injectors and run the Edge Comp on 5x3. But for the sake of testing what happens if you turn it off. Like if I was towing up hill and turn off the Edge Comp there is sudden drop in power but the ECM will throttle back up to hold speed. Typically there is no difference in temperature. My typical method of EGT control is slow down, gear down from 5th to 4th and run the tach at about 2,000 to 2,100 RPM's and typically the EGT's drop to 1,000 to 1,100*F on most all 6-7% grades here in Idaho. Just food for thought...

Most people wig out when they first hear the 3 cylinder high idle function.

What I thought. P0234 is rusted wastegate.

That's one way to control body rust. Like mine is going to remain parked till diesel prices come back down.

If the IVS switch is grounded for idle then the APPS voltage is ignored and the idle software is used. Not if the IVS is ground for Throttling then the APPS sensor voltage is used and set the engine RPM to match. All based on IVS switch depends on which leg is grounded or not.

Then pull each fuse one at a time and measure amp draw across each fuse socket you pull out.

You make me sick... ... and people wonder why I turned into Mr. Economy Diesel or Hyper-miler...

Like comparing the 96 to 02 for distance and fuel prices they are nearly the same to drive.

What the heck is going on with fuel prices you keep hearing about how the prices are going to come down. Ok here where I'm at in Central Idaho the price of diesel is still 3.759 and not changed. But unleaded gasoline has now pushed lower to 2.939 as of today. I'm going to have to park the Cummins and start driving the V8 again. But if the price of crude is going down should both diesel and gasoline be going down equally?

I noticed that too you coolant temp is way too low for optimal engine performance. Should be 190-195*F or just slight to the right of the 190*F mark.

I found this sign in a Winger's Restaurant in Ontario, OR and thought about you...

I curious if you have a boost issue and leaning against the P0234 code but not tripped it yet. You didn't mention any modules so I'm wondering.

Always have the alternator bench tested before you leave the store. I've heard this so many time to come home install their new alternator and find they got another bad alternator.

I tend to agree with AH64ID on the front tire pressures. Everything math wise at least for 4,400 pounds typically put you up around 55-65 PSI. It might also account for the lower MPG numbers being you pushing the front axle more so.

I'm lucky where I live with all the distance from everything. So I've got just about 15 miles to work by about 5-7 miles I can typically start getting heat (south Pollock) but 8-9 miles I'm at full 190*F temperature (north Pollock). Then if I go the other way to McCall to the store then I've got a grade to climb to get out the canyon. No problem there I'm fully warmed up typically in under 5 miles from the house. So mountain living with a diesel you can most certain hit full temp within a few miles typically. This is of course with full cover of the grill area.

I would opt for the injectors to be tested. If cylinder health is good then its a fuel issue... There is only 2 things needed for diesel to fire. Compression and fuel. So if the compression is correct then its going to be a fuel issue. I still think injector pop testing is in order. It might be just a poor tuned injector maybe or something sticking? Won't know till you do some more testing.

I see you both from the same state... Oh My I bet the cops look for you...

Interesting... Once long ago I use to be brave like that and take trucks into places I shouldn't.

Red probe at the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator and black probe on the NEG battery post. Start the engine and measure.

There was someone here that was into Rat rods but I can seem to find him now.

From what I understand the Smarty updates to the most current stock flash so I wonder if the Smarty tune itself was the change in all the MAP readings? Still I would just for fun contact Bob Wagner and see what he's got to say or if there is actually a software bug.

Here you go NAPA listing at least. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Thermostat-OE-Exact/_/R-THM456200_0420240722

Just remember EV2's are strictly electric.