Mopar1973Man

I've got a engine hoist that might just do the trick. Yeah... I'll give that a shot in the morning.

The trick to the battle is to have proof of what you talking about. Find it from like Cummins or a manufacture. But to go to a forum fight without ammo is a lost cause... Now you just bickering and arguing with people. That goes back to the days of the 2 cycle oil theory. I remember studying for days hunting for facts and figures on that subject. You might have to do the same thing too.

I see lots of forestry roads but rare to get stuck. I'm not running over sized tires at all but 235/85 R16. I typically aim for a low budget AT tire like right now I've got HiFly's on. But again since I'm not running oversized tires I've not had most of the problems that owners with oversized tires typically do.

Well at this point and time I'll do the tweaking to at least get the door to seal again and keep the wind and snow from blowing in on me. Yes. It was like driving around with your door hanging open.

For as long as we both been on the Internet we both have seen our fill of "Class Act's" out there. Like on CF I've got a few people I've tossed into the Ignore bin because I'm tired of there mouth. As for the Admin site I'm just going to walk away because there really isn't anything there noteworthy about the site. Now and then there is a good tidbit. Other than that just idle chatter and b!otchin'. Like over on CompD there is another rude bunch at times too. Then hop over to the RV site I hang on too. (No offense...) There is bunch old farts that think they know everything. I think the only reason I don't get attack there is being a moderator. But I'm getting tired of the same old hum drum what's the best tow vehicle (Ford) and what the biggest 5th wheel I can put on a 1/2 ton truck. Seriously you can't fix stupid....

How hard was it to get the hinges off?

Alternator stays going with the grid heaters. With my truck running in 3 cylinder high idle and exhaust brake on it can actually roll coal every time the grid heaters hit. As for the external regulator remember you've now lost the battery temperature sensor that regulates battery voltage by temperature of the battery. So on a cold morning the cold temperature read by the sensor would increase charge voltage even more since cold batteries are resistant to charging. Then the same is true in the summer the battery temp sensor would turn down the charge voltage to prevent gassing the batteries with excessively high charge rate. This is why the old school regulator where given up on. Because the old school regulator based its charge rate on the temperature under the hood. So if you running with a winter front you might be charging to low. Then if the cold air blowing on the regulator it might be over charging a already warm battery.

The door on fast inspection looks good but the top hinge is pulled away from the body a bit. Looking closer at the bottom hinge its got a stop in it where the upper hinge doesn't that I can see of. Door appears to be forward slightly and outwards on top.

Absolutely.

Wild shot in the dark. How about the wrong thickness copper shims being used on one the injectors?

I'm running a AirDog 150 from back at 2006. No issues really other than the original blue hose gave up and needed to be replaced. The pump itself is still working flawless so far and looks to make it to 10 years. Now if it should happen to fail I'm not sure what I'll do. I might farm out something myself or I might call get a replacement motor from AirDog (risky?).

FASS still seems to be a favorite out there. Fuelab seems to be a up and coming system but heard nothing about them.

I had a misfortune get me today. I was asked by the fire chief to help him with fire trucks and to meet him at Station #3 at 11:30am. I did just that. I showed up at the fire station backed into my usual spot. Sitting there I decided to get some stuff out of the back of the truck and when I opened my drivers door the wind caught pulled so hard I couldn't hang on. Blam! It slung the door so hard the the forward lip of the door made contact with the hinges and tweaked the upper hinge. Now the top of the door is out another 1/4". I'm hoping I can adjust the door again for now and be close. I'll get photos in the morning in the daylight.

I had the same thing happen to me as well over on a Admin site. Some people have chips on there shoulders. For the time being I'm just going to pack out of that site. Tired of the constant badgering.

Yeah... But I've heard of issues with the PCM communicating with the different ECM. So you might have to flash the PCM to work now. Depends on what options the other truck had.

I'm up here with -20 to -25*F for cold and no hoses insulated. The only thing I've changed since the replacing the old blue hose for the new black is I ran my supply line up through the frame. Pump is mounted right behind the transfer case so its out of the cold wind as much as possible. I kept my stock fuel filter and fuel heater for this reason. Also the stock filter can will absorb heat from a 190*F block aiding in heating the fuel. The fuel returned to the tank will be warm too.

That's what i know of... You could try the just swapping the cam but not sure of you'll be pulling it back out again.

How about Napa... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Headlight-Switch/_/R-MPEHL6559SB_0151349460

Damn... I though I was a gauge junkie...

I still climb into the truck... I still crawl underneath the truck to service it... I still climb up in the bed to load and unload cargo. I must be doing just fine.

Cam has to be swapped because of the tone wheel difference. Gear case has to be swapped because of sensor location is correct.

NAPA or Rockauto.

Still 18*F here as I get home from work.

I'm only anti-Edge Juice. People tend to mis-use the alarms and limits and create a performance issue, laggy, loss of power on the upper end, etc.

I didn't feel or hear anything... Yeah I know I'm a long ways from it too.