Mopar1973Man

I forgot the HY35 you have to use a wastegate j hook.

Adjustable boost elbow or just purchase a Edge Products boost elbow that is pre-set.

Ahhh... Ok. I'm still playing catch up to a degree.

Hold the power switch for 3 seconds and release put you in sub-level mode. To reset the Edge Comp just try the key off. Then next power cycle it boots back up.

I would make sure you not pulling excessively on thee screws. It does work better with a partner help hold the tape measure between points.

Another thought. You both (Cowboy and Nick) need to verify how far the stock MAP sensor is good for also how far is your exhaust pressure sensor is good for? Won't do any good to build a software expecting higher numbers than thee sensors are capable of reading accurately.

HX35 Turbo is good to 35 PSI HY35 Turbo is good to 32 PSI It's based on the exhaust housing or the choke point of the turbo.

Ummm... I'm blonde by choice. My actual hair color is brown but I due to head in and be streaked (bleached) so I have a bit of blonde added. Bring on the jokes... Yankneck he's a blonde too.

You might want to use compressed air to push the pistons out next time.

White lithium grease is what we use quite a bit of at the shop (Lindy's). Matter of fact I grab the can of PB blaster and Lindy stopped me and told me to use the white lithium grease. Shake the can well and spray everything very well. You'll be surprised it will stick to everything very well and stay lubricated for months into the future. Stopped a customer's door from squeaking.

Possible... I'm not saying it is or isn't just be open minded. Either way I would be looking at the fuel system first and do some bench testing. Like is there any error codes currently. Fuel pressure (idle to WOT at highway speed) What your injectors like currently? Mileage? Pop test? 7 x 0.010 is roughly a 100 HP injector using this information. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6494-injector-sizes-and-turbo-discussion/

Just looking at your post again and doing the backward calculation to your stated pressures. Using 3,042 Pound Rating at 80 PSI maximum pressure. 55 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.68 * 3,042 = 2,068 * 2 = 4,137 pounds on your front axle 60 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.75 * 3,042 = 2,281 * 2 = 4,563 Pounds on your rear axle (empty) 75 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.93 * 3,042 = 2,851 * 2 = 5,703 Pounds on the rear axle (loaded) For a total of 8,700 (empty) or 9,840 pounds (loaded). Getting a wee bit heavy aren't we Bill... Of course this is backwards calculating the tire pressure back to weights.

So I tried it and liked it. I dropped from the calculated 58 PSI in the front to 53 PSI which is -5 from calc'ed. Then dropped the rear the same -5 from calc'ed I think its at 39 PSI and it tracks very well now. I like it! Thanks Bill! Front axle weight 4,410 Rear Axle weight 3,340 Total 7,750

Made a trip south to get some stuff today. Misfire is only on a fully heated engine (190-195*F of coolant). More pronounced after a long uphill climb with high EGT's 800-1000*F. All you need to do to cancel the miss is either put your foot heavy on the brake heavy or turn on the A/C and its gone. If left to idle for extended period say 10 minutes or longer it will go away. If you shut down the engine for all of 1-2 minutes and start again its gone too.

Something is wore out for it not being able to pull enough to release. You might have to pull the latch out and inspect closer.

That can be cleaned up. It the outer weather boot that was damaged and needs replacing.

According to Cummins the OE cross over tubes have been superseded twice now. What has changed I don't know.

Might read my thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9721-odd-injector-misfire/

Mine is tight still too. I check the steering box adjustment off and on and adjust as needed during the inspections. But I don't have the flex that people seem to have the require the steering brace. The 1996 is so darn touchy just breathe on the steering wheel it darts the direction you steered. 2002 is a bit more relaxed and not as touchy.

I've got one small crack started in my 2002. But my 1996 Dodge is crack free yet. Still as for the Blue Chip box it not like its a common place performance box like Edge Products or Quadzilla.

Just flip the 240k on the clock for the 2002 Dodge Cummins. Heck even the 96 Dodge Ram is heading for 159k miles.

Heck the chain is worth at least $15 bucks...

190k miles as it stands right now. I was hoping to clear 200k miles before it was replaced. I might just do it anyways. Cram the last 10k on her and then... But first try the cross over tubes first. I'm not going to complain much being that pump is 11 years old and 190k miles. Served me well. The OEM VP44 was replaced at 50k miles in 2004 under dealer warranty with a P0216 error code and heavy white smoke issues in the mornings.

Nick and Cowboy... I just though of something as well that you need to add to the software. If you have updated your valve springs you should be able to adjust the exhaust brake drive pressure. So typically 24V engines are 60 pound springs but if you update to say 90 pound why not allow to use the ability of the new springs. That would make you VGT turbo better exhaust brakes over any thing sold now.

My original DiPricols served me well for 10 years till the Pyrometer started getting wonky. Now I'm on my set of ISSPro EV2's and I like them a lot but there is a few extra thing you have to consider. Fuel pressure sensor has to be remote mounted not for vibration but for water hammer protection. As for ISSPro EV2's I would highly suggest looking into the programming software so you can set the warning light. That's still on my list of thing to get yet.