Mopar1973Man

I've not notice any changes in vacuum just the oil leaking.

...and a bit Gimp'ing the image together and.... Now Dorkweed can't hide no more... LOL

Yea... I got my seal today and the silicone to do the cover. I figure I'll just pull the cover so I can get a good photo shoot of the gear case and internal parts.

As for mine I've replaced it twice now over 240k miles. But as for after market clutches it works just fine with my Southbend Clutch and no issues as of yet. First one wore out like you said it would self engage. The second one started leaking fluid in the cab and sucking air back in making it a requirement to pump the pedal to get the clutch to disengage properly.

I tend to agree with both above posts...

Make sure to talk to the dealer and be sure they are competent for working on Dodge Cummins Diesel. It not the same as a gasoline car. There is differences in programming and the different computers. Some dealers don't understand how to properly re-flash or update flash most vehicles.

Heck at this rate I'll save a bunch of time on the seal too. Thanks Guys...

No. VP44 stayed in.

Same here...

TFaoro is right. Just the HO and SO series pumps. SO pumps have high volume and HO pumps have higher pressure. Typically most stay to stock standards in replacement unless your aiming to get every last bit of power then most switch to SO pumps.

Yeah... I'm going to pull the cover and reseal the gear case completely. It won't both me a bit. Q: MnTom the gear case cover is just put on with silicone (grey) correct?

Write up... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild

Another way is to dip a q-tip in the manifold. The shavings get snagged up in the cotton q-tip.

OMG... All the horror stories of how hard it is and troublesome it is to rebuild your vacuum pump. I did mine from start to finish in 2 hours taking my time. No more oil leak from there now. But now I got to get a front crank seal and replace it. I left the power steering pump attached and just yanked the vacuum pump. Man this is such a easy job to do... I'm going to make a write up...

I know those trucks its just a dump valve on the rear brakes to prevent locking of the rear brakes. You might check over that assembly in the back as well. As you get measurable heat from the rotors and drums? Just want to verify actually is all 4 wheels. I would tend to agree with MnTom to check the vacuum booster.

If the transmission is already built up and weakness taken care of then you can tap and turn up the box. But stock transmission I wouldn't do more than a untapped box of any flavor.

Out of all these names I see floating around here come on people post up your pics lets see who you are. EDIT: I even added more pictures to my original post.

Like here. Weatherspark. http://weatherspark.com/?_escaped_fragment_=dashboard;ws%3D30954#!graphs;loc=45.2458,-116.3324 NOAA http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.24525270653619&lon=-116.3321042060852&site=mso&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text Then local weather towers. North of me by 5 miles... http://lb.511.idaho.gov/idlb/cameras/camera.jsf?id=142&view=state&text=m&textOnly=false Then south of me by 10 miles. http://lb.511.idaho.gov/idlb/cameras/camera.jsf?id=27&view=state&text=m&textOnly=false I get better result from the local weather towers than from any weather agency....

Just remember the ABS pic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs

From the reports I'm seen I would be very upset. NY got 6" of snow...

Pulling the ABS sensor just gives you the tone wheel you would have to drill through the tone wheel to gain access to the bearing. But I see Rancherman got bold and drilled into the bearing. I think the tone wheel is near the hub right? (CRS )

Ok... I'm not sure of the amount of boost your creating. But at some point along the way of making big boost numbers its possible to create enough boost pressure and compression that during a sudden release of the throttle the fuel pressure is gone from the lines and the compression is high enough to blow back into the lines purging the fuel out and air locking the VP44 once again. It all depends on the pop pressure of the injectors and how much boost you can build. As for electronics I would verify the alternator for AC noise issues. If there is more than 0.1 VAC then the alternator failed.

I would see about ordering a seal kit and attempting to rebuild it yourself. What do you have to lose?

Personally I would suggest going Edge Comp or Edge Juice then for now just leave it un-tapped. Then when you do upgrade transmissions then all you got to do is tap the pump. Problem solved.