Mopar1973Man

Once again I got that darn blasted ABS and BRAKE light again. I knew the driver side front sensor was repaired. What had happened was the outer jacket of the ABS split open after being flexed enough times that it broke. So the driver side was soldered and shrink wrapped and tapped up well. So I pull the driver side thinking it was damaged and unwrapped the repair and everything was fine. So I broke out a DVM and set it for ohm setting. Sure enough the driver side was right around 1,000 ohms. Hmmm... So quickly yanked the plug on the passenger side and ohm that lead. I got infinite ohms (open circuit). Now start from the sensor and right about the knuckle the jacket did the same thing. Split open and the black wire was broken. Very carefully I took a razor blade and took just a little bit of jacket off so I could solder and shrink tube this side. So after the repair I checked the ohms again and right around 1,000 ohms. I placed a dab of dielectric grease in both ABS plugs and plugged them back in. Roll the truck out of the shop and about half way across the yard the ABS and BRAKE light went out. I think the next time its going to be time for new sensors...

Possibly a kinked return hose? Possibly a check ball is sticking?

I would say pump housing marks. Too wide to be spring marks.

Nice tip... Thanks.

Nicely done on the spring mod. I'll have to do that to my new spring and see if it works.

180*F isn't stock. It should of been a 190*F thermostat.

I would say your thermostat is shot.

Same here...

Same here I'm a tick over 6 foot as well and gotta remember to duck leaving the RV or get scalped.

Yea... It was dry. Marked right on the seal "Install dry". Real PITA to smack in with the cover in place.

Hmmm... I've been using 120 ft/lbs on my truck so I could get the lugs loose when I do get a flat.

Well... I learned a bunch doing this job. As for installing the seal into cover and then putting the cover back on is insane with edges full of fresh silicone. Much easier to install the cleaned cover and then install the crank seal. I did the same thing and drove the seal in just a bit deeper to make it ride in a different spot. Great minds think alike. Heck in 240k miles and crank seal is being replaced. No biggy. Next time I'll most likely order the seal with the sleeve. As for removal of the seal a screwdriver and rubber hammer and it pop out in a few hits. Still pickin' silicone off my hands and arms.

Well I'm on my way of the crank seal now. My garden hose is frozen so I'm thawing it out so I can power wash the front cover. Nasty looking. I might not get the leak fixed. I notice the crank has a bit of groove in the spot where the front lip rode.

Would some like to create a article of all this AirDog data it might be something others would like to do is rebuild it themselves.

Also make sure to tighten your lugs evenly. You can create a out of true rotor by uneven torquing of the lugs. Rotors could be warped from previous brake drag.

I just did a vacuum pump rebuild for a whole $13 bucks and about 2 hours time... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild

As far as what I understand about ECM's most are sold as blanks with no software installed being there is so many versions of software.

As for the calipers you didn't clean the pistons up and check them for size? With all the seals out the pistons should drop to the bottom without being pushed. I typically tune each piston back to the bore using a fine grade of sandpaper and lightly sand the caked on brake fluid off the pistons. Little at a time check the piston to bore fit.

Check out this video...

Boost should be correct. I'm not sure why the calculation is off. Horsepower is going to be calculated flywheel power. Loop is a gasser function. Timing is also a gasser function.

That would be it. The truck ended it life in a mild traffic accident. Still running but CajFlynn didn't want to mess around with fixing it up again. So it was sold the last I heard but it was still a running engine.

Well I've got wet spots along the bottom edge away from the actual seal. I'm not certain if if the cover leaking or not. So why chance it. I'll pull the cover and clean it up. Not a huge deal yeah it's going to add some time but like I said before I'd wanted to grab some gear case pics.

Any flash work has to be done with a DRBIII tool. So... You are more or less stuck to dealers unless you find someone with a DRBIII tool but that will be rare outside a dealer.

Your not going to get kicked but 12V mechanical lift pumps come up short on the upper end of RPM so they don't flow as well at high RPMs as they do with lower RPM's. so they aren't all the great either.

I've been multiple trips over 1,400*F and my old DiPricol was holding together fine for 10 years.