Mopar1973Man

More pictures...

I can see that... Clunkin' and noises but again it should not create a tire wear issue.

Man some days I'm glad I don't have TV anymore...

Nothing but the same old green fuel and aluminium bottom looking back at me. The pics are of my filters at 30k miles. Like I said I'm fussy about where I get fuel at. No black scum or anything.

Simple. What Bill is referring to is the rubber bushing in the a-arms of the 2WD trucks that as they wear out the alignment is lost over time. Where with 4WD truck we don't have all the rubber in the suspension like 2WD it mostly a solid axle with ball joints. There is the control arms but even mine appear in very good shape yet.

For safety sake test your alternator for AC noise output. That is the main reason for electrical failures on our truck is a bad alternator diode feeding AC ripple to sensitive electronics.

For us the mechanical lift pump had to be dropped because they could not provide the needed volume at higher RPM's. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html

No. The ECM is a ON or OFF state typically. The only time its a modulated state is during cranking which a rapid ON to OFF state at a 50% duty cycle. This gives the reduced fuel pressure for the start up. So the other reason the ECM controls the the lift pump is crash safety. Say you involved in a accident knock out. If the lift pump is wired to just a key ON then the fuel pump could be fuelling a fire that might kill you. Where with the ECM in control the ECM sees no tach signal and shuts down both VP44 and the lift pump for safety. Kind of like the old 12 valves once the engine died the mechanical lift pump stopped too.

To give it more focus... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/32-59-cr-smarty-jr-pod/

I wasn't impressed with the idea of any module being mounted under the hood like Edge EZ, Edge Juice or Quadzilla. Not a weather friendly spot to be.

Also counter productive ot the MPG fooler. Being the fooler uses temperature to allow the ECM to retard timing.

Yeah common on 2WD truck but exempt on 4WD trucks.

I'm curious what you going to do with the hollow space inside the box? I can tell you want a console for airbag controls and other things. I'm curious of what you got up your sleeve.

Ok. I want to jump in here too. I'm also with the feathering of the inside of the tires. Now I did the beer can alignment and roughly measured about 1/8" toe in. Basically I jacked up the front axle and using 2 short drywall screws I barely start them in a thick lug of the tread. So now at a straight forward you measure. Then you rotate the screw to point straight back and measure. I get the 1/8" more. That doesn't seem bad. But the feather seems stronger on the driver side.

I'm not exactly sure about the Special X pumps but I know the "HotRod" pump are modified internally for advanced timing so you can't use any programmer or module on them. So when they talk about modified pumps with more power and economy typically that means as a standalone. We you start stacking more timing it might become a bad thing. Hence why most will suggest stay with a stock pump that allows you your choice of module or programmer.

My personal view is they are too expensive for what you could buy at CPP Diesel, Vulcan Performance (Industrial Injection) or even DAP (Midwest Injection). These three vendors all sell pump right at $1,100 where for the same then with BC its $1,800 with new PSG like the other three vendors.

Waiting to here the results.

Start with the body bolts first then the door bolts. Being the body is tougher to do.

Like yesterday I made a run to Ontario, OR for some personal stuff and with my winter front still in and outside air temperatures in the 60's I was starting to pull a nice 19 MPG @ 65 MPH. Coolant was ranging in the 195-197*F.

Wow! AirDog changed there Water separator design. It was a steel mesh filter...

Just for fun I'll pull the hours and miles off the ATV. As for filter I tend to now believe in doubling up on filter more so. Even though the AirDog 150 is a Donaldson 3 Micron and there is a Fleetgurad 10 Micron in the stock can I'm still seeing the Fleetguard filter in the stock can getting dirty. So if the 3 Micron is so good why is it passing debris that the Fleetguard is catching? After 30k miles...

Sounds like that carburetor needs looked at . Float are most likely high or a air jet passage is plugged up with gum.

He's right there is a funnel at the end of the tube to help guide the axle shaft back into the carrier/splines. I remember the old days on my 72 Dodge of having to lever or lift the shaft into place.

Any live data tool should display IAT temps. Like my ScanGauge II does this job for me. http://www.scangauge.com

As a matter of fact he called me.. jmarine is his handle...