Mopar1973Man

190k miles as it stands right now. I was hoping to clear 200k miles before it was replaced. I might just do it anyways. Cram the last 10k on her and then... But first try the cross over tubes first. I'm not going to complain much being that pump is 11 years old and 190k miles. Served me well. The OEM VP44 was replaced at 50k miles in 2004 under dealer warranty with a P0216 error code and heavy white smoke issues in the mornings.

Nick and Cowboy... I just though of something as well that you need to add to the software. If you have updated your valve springs you should be able to adjust the exhaust brake drive pressure. So typically 24V engines are 60 pound springs but if you update to say 90 pound why not allow to use the ability of the new springs. That would make you VGT turbo better exhaust brakes over any thing sold now.

My original DiPricols served me well for 10 years till the Pyrometer started getting wonky. Now I'm on my set of ISSPro EV2's and I like them a lot but there is a few extra thing you have to consider. Fuel pressure sensor has to be remote mounted not for vibration but for water hammer protection. As for ISSPro EV2's I would highly suggest looking into the programming software so you can set the warning light. That's still on my list of thing to get yet.

Who Me? Driving Tired Trucks?

Those are from my tinypics account. http://tinypic.com/ So... Here it is uploaded here.

Well I might of damaged on cross over tube with a injector that came loose some and might of distorted the tip of the cross over tube enough not to seal any more. It's a gambling guess because there is no way to see if the tube is leaking or not. But the difference between TFaoro and myself is my does NOT miss on a cold engine only after hard running. Then after it idles for a extended period it goes away and fire normally. The reason I had Eric pop test again was that was exactly how my RV275 injectors failed. They got down to about 240-260 bar and pissy. Which created the misfire issue. Well Eric verified the injectors and they are all still within 100 PSI of what was originally set. So the injectors are not the cause. But he suggested looking at the cross over tubes next. But ultimately it "might" be VP44 time. I'm not going to go there yet because there is no error codes, no issues other than the mild misfire at idle. For me to to just place my foot on the brake pedal heavy or just turn on the A/C and the miss goes away.

Actually Eric is lower than that and I'm getting all 6 for a "Good Boy Rate".

Here is one video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGaHaIXZioA Here is my video. Just remember to probe the BATT terminal on the alternator. Just like the truck I just got done working on. It ate the VP44 and the ECM to some degree... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9720-wait-to-start-light-stuck-on

Ummm... How about the "Kick Back" problem? Also how about cutting 48" rounds?

Make sure to put the rubber caps back on the bleeder screws and keep the water and mud out of the bleed screws. I normally put a thin coat of anti-seize on the threads and then cap the bleeder screws. No issues with rust or stripping out.

Damn... My misfire came back. So I called Eric and he's suggested I called Rock Mountain Cummins directly and get the crossover tubes. I was shocked at the price of $166.40 a piece ($998.40 for six) for cross over tubes. So I called Eric back I'll order them from him.

Sad but true there is no shorts in the electrical I did find the connector above the valve cover and disconnected and tested. The light goes out. So I check for shorts to ground none found. But the ECM commands the ground at key on and doesn't release so that test me the .260 AC Volts from the failed alternator ate the ECM also. So for band aid fix I unplugged the WAIT TO START light lead and cleared the codes. Everything works fine just no WAIT TO START light. Not even a P0381 code which tell me the ECM has internal issues too.

Funny. Mine calculates out at 58.3 PSI for my front axle weight. I might actually try going down and seeing what happens.

Another reason I'm not fond of the NEW AirDog plumbing sets. All this quick connect stuff is junk and should of be left with the original JIC and PushLoc fittings. At least JIC fittings are self-sealing and have no o-rings or clips. Just standard hand tools. Not to mention the Push-Loc fittings are re-usable.

All I can say is you block won't rust now. As for the oil cooler I would pressure test it and see where your at for now.

Right on. That different from mine but it might give me a clue to resolving this customers WAIT TO START light issue that cropped up. I'll let you know tomorrow if it helped our not.

Another project I've been working on. Last week running the Cummins it would come to a idle and lightly misfire for a very randomly. Out of respect for Eric at Vulcan Performance I didn't want to post this till I found a solution or it was resolved. But I pull them all the injectors out, inspected them and didn't see any thing wrong with them so I assembled them back into the head. Still had the misfire with a warm engine. So I pull them back out and contacted Eric and sent them in to be inspected by him. As far as what I was told by Eric there was nothing wrong with the injectors and popped tested fine. So I got them back today and made sure to clean all the tips of the cross over tubes, injector lines, etc. Added my dab of grease for copper shims and lubed the cross-over tube o-rings. Paid attention to torquing and assembly order. Went back together and... No miss now. Plain weird. But I figure I would post up my adventure in Cummins...

I must be the odd duck. Both my 1996 and 2002 are still tight in the steering and track nearly perfect. The bother wander just a little bit that cause from the ruts in the pavement out here. Most of the time I'm steering single handed and my arm rest in both trucks are wearing out. No steering brace, still running the OEM track bar in the 1996 but the 2002 has had a new track bar but still a OE track bar.

Already checked the wiring under the hood and didn't find anything shorted or pinched. ECM is in direct control of the light.

Yeah I got a a weird one. I had a truck come to the shop with a dead injection pump (P1688 and P1689). It got a new Injection pump and lift pump from Vulcan Performance. After getting it running the WAIT TO START light is stuck ON even while driving. The grid heater are cycling as normal and canceling out either by time or by speed. I've done my AC noise check on the alternator and it was .260 at the highest. So the alternator was replaced and the new one is floating about .040 which is OK. But still got a stuck WAIT TO START. I check all the wiring for loose connection or pinched wires. I even call a local computer expert and they are stumped.

Stock banjo bolt? Or JIC fitting? It either case there might be a failed sealing washer behind the fitting which is leaking.

My first set of gauges was a DiPricol mechanical gauges. That was direct plumbed with just a needle valve to snub it. Then the new set is ISSPro EV2's which are electric and they are remote mounted on the fender to give distance from the water hammer also needle valve and snubbed with a ISSPro snubber stack after the needle valve. The needle valve in this case is just in case the line breaks I can close the fuel supply off.

War Eagle is down around Boise area so I know they do emission testing. But up here I'm still exempt for the time being. I've heard rumors that EPA want to get into the rural areas too. But nothing happened. I got to admit it would be a PITA every year to pull the stealth plate off. I'm sure they look for it.

#1 reason for loss of pressure is a mechanical gauge isolator. I bet even now if you had a direct plumbed and your isolated gauge you find there is a still a pressure error between them.

The only thing that going to happen is get up on the roller. They tie you down. Then the controller will tell you what to do. Typically you get into your highest gear and hold for a second controller will tell you to drop the hammer. You'll run up to near 3k on the tach then let off. I've been to several dyno events with a local Idaho group.