Mopar1973Man

MoparMom's asking how old? How about your picture?

Right now the big problem is getting the site stable... First. Then I can move back to the high idle mod and get the stuff going with Ed. But I'm way behind with the server being too small and still need to install a better store software which is half done now. But I'll get back to High Idle stuff a bit later...

I typically don't suggest mixing products. Because some products negate the abilities of other products. Like PS is cetane boost and 2 cycle is a cetane reducer. Like PS is typically more of a injector cleaner / cetane booster and 2 cycle oil is more of lubricant. So mixing products might yield results less than favorable at times. If you use one product then you guaranteed success. Like if you stick to PS for anti-gel then the product will work properly without fail. But mixing with 2 cycle might create other issues. Becuase of how your changing the chemistry of the fuel.

Be careful with flexible neck or bent neck wands. You still have to maintain distance from particular things like cooler and radiators. Bossman down at the shop has a bent neck wand and thought he could use it to help clean out a A/C condenser but it was still way to close and the power washer was folding the fins over flat. Like myself for under truck work I wait for warmer days and use the slope of the yard. So crawl under from the high side and start spraying the low side as much as possible and work my way out. Then flip the truck around and start over again. This allows to hit both sides of the frame and body without laying in a puddle of water. Don't get me wrong your still going to get wet but your not going to lay in a puddle.

Mine was very obvious of the break. You could flex the jacket and clearly see the black wire was broken and the white wire was intact. I would suggest you inspect the plugs it might be corroded contacts.

Same here... Most all axle hardware I use anti-seize. But around brake parts I'm very careful to keep it thin and keep it off of brake parts.

This is what we use at work for cleaning engine bays. Works really good. http://www.reordersuperclean.com/ Another favorite but not as strong as Super Clean. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Citrus-Heavy-Duty-Degreaser-ZUCIT128/100676344 Then blow it all off with a 3,000 PSI power washer. Stays pretty clean that way.

Once again I got that darn blasted ABS and BRAKE light again. I knew the driver side front sensor was repaired. What had happened was the outer jacket of the ABS split open after being flexed enough times that it broke. So the driver side was soldered and shrink wrapped and tapped up well. So I pull the driver side thinking it was damaged and unwrapped the repair and everything was fine. So I broke out a DVM and set it for ohm setting. Sure enough the driver side was right around 1,000 ohms. Hmmm... So quickly yanked the plug on the passenger side and ohm that lead. I got infinite ohms (open circuit). Now start from the sensor and right about the knuckle the jacket did the same thing. Split open and the black wire was broken. Very carefully I took a razor blade and took just a little bit of jacket off so I could solder and shrink tube this side. So after the repair I checked the ohms again and right around 1,000 ohms. I placed a dab of dielectric grease in both ABS plugs and plugged them back in. Roll the truck out of the shop and about half way across the yard the ABS and BRAKE light went out. I think the next time its going to be time for new sensors...

Possibly a kinked return hose? Possibly a check ball is sticking?

I would say pump housing marks. Too wide to be spring marks.

Nice tip... Thanks.

Nicely done on the spring mod. I'll have to do that to my new spring and see if it works.

180*F isn't stock. It should of been a 190*F thermostat.

I would say your thermostat is shot.

Same here...

Same here I'm a tick over 6 foot as well and gotta remember to duck leaving the RV or get scalped.

Yea... It was dry. Marked right on the seal "Install dry". Real PITA to smack in with the cover in place.

Hmmm... I've been using 120 ft/lbs on my truck so I could get the lugs loose when I do get a flat.

Well... I learned a bunch doing this job. As for installing the seal into cover and then putting the cover back on is insane with edges full of fresh silicone. Much easier to install the cleaned cover and then install the crank seal. I did the same thing and drove the seal in just a bit deeper to make it ride in a different spot. Great minds think alike. Heck in 240k miles and crank seal is being replaced. No biggy. Next time I'll most likely order the seal with the sleeve. As for removal of the seal a screwdriver and rubber hammer and it pop out in a few hits. Still pickin' silicone off my hands and arms.

Well I'm on my way of the crank seal now. My garden hose is frozen so I'm thawing it out so I can power wash the front cover. Nasty looking. I might not get the leak fixed. I notice the crank has a bit of groove in the spot where the front lip rode.

Would some like to create a article of all this AirDog data it might be something others would like to do is rebuild it themselves.

Also make sure to tighten your lugs evenly. You can create a out of true rotor by uneven torquing of the lugs. Rotors could be warped from previous brake drag.

I just did a vacuum pump rebuild for a whole $13 bucks and about 2 hours time... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild

As far as what I understand about ECM's most are sold as blanks with no software installed being there is so many versions of software.

As for the calipers you didn't clean the pistons up and check them for size? With all the seals out the pistons should drop to the bottom without being pushed. I typically tune each piston back to the bore using a fine grade of sandpaper and lightly sand the caked on brake fluid off the pistons. Little at a time check the piston to bore fit.