Mopar1973Man

Personally I like that idea of the 10% kerosene I know out here its expensive but its common to find it everywhere.

As far as I know out here in Idaho its all just winterized #2 diesel and we get down to -20*F to -25*F here in New Meadows, ID. So far no issues. I still keep feeding the pump its dose of 2 cycle oil but I don't add anything else typically.

OMG... I really wonder about people some days.

Now you know why I've got my AirDog tucked right behind the transfer case trying to keep the cold wind off the filters.

Oh Darn... I forgot to get some when I was last at WalMart. Seriously I thought about getting a gallon of kerosene for cutting the fuel if need be.

Kerosene for years use to be the way to deal with gelling issues now we are looking for a chemical in bottle to do it. Makes you think...

Like myself I don't bother with name brands. I've got HiFly's on right now and they are a load range E tire. But since I'm not a name brand tire they are much cheaper. But I do adjust my tire pressure based on axle weight calculation. This gives me the best off all worlds. Enjoyable ride, cheap tires, and good traction.

Hmmm... Me I would call around and fine a shop that does free injector pop testing. Then see about renting a diesel compression test. Have a friend run the injectors out and have then tested. Then you can do the compression test. By time you finish you buddy should be finish and coming back. Shouldn't take much more than 1-2 hours tops if everything is planned out.

No matter what micron size you put on for a filter gelled fuel will not pass through the filter. At this point you need to warm the fuel up as much as possible in a enclosed shop and treat your existing fuel.

Like with the new fuel line I ran mine inside the frame tube to get as much as possible out of the cold wind. The rest of the line I kept high against the body away from the wind and possibly capture warm when sitting still.

Like myself I see a little drop in pressure but by the time I get some heat into the fuel tank the pressure starts to rise again. But I kept my stock filter housing to help with heating the fuel in the winter time. 12 years of ownership I never gelled up yet.

Thatt's why I still suggest pop testing. Then you can rule out the injectors completely. Right now you randomly tossing money at parts without any proof of a fuel issues and where? But still if it was me I would pull all the injectors out and pop test. While the injectors are being pop tested I would do a compression test just to verify and the injectors are out so it makes getting two birds with one stone.

Time for pop testing. Number and label thee injectors. Find out what going on injector wise.

Ahhh There is the Idaho bee keeper.

I done a 1st gen a few year back and it best to remove all the stuff out of your way. Injection pump, injection line, fuel lines, etc.

Mine was like that too. Low setting seem to not work at all and the two medium settings tend to squeak and high worked fine. After replacing my lo setting works awesome and the mediums no longer squeak. Lindy at the shop said, "With a motor that tight I'm surprised it didn't blow the fuse."

Sounds like your making head way.

I'm surprise Hex0rz isn't all in this thread about bees?

Here you go. As of yesterday at about 3pm...

Lets say the fitting at the back of the head can be reach much easier with the valve cover off. I've got big hands so that extra bit of room really does count. Number 6 cross over tube is also in a tough spot too. If you pull the hoist ring off you can get #6 in and out much easier.

Continue like I have over the course of the last 12 years of ownership. Continue to buy fuel from a quality place that I know is up to snuff. Continue to add the 2 cycle oil to the fuel. Skip on adding any other additives. 12 years of ownership and still never gelled up. But I know what fuel station meet the requirement and which ones don't.

With the cage on it might be misleading. It will spin by hand but should spin for long period of time when the bearings are good. When bearings are shot or dry up it will still spin by hand still but the cage will come to a stop rather quickly.

Cycle mine only once in 14*F weather today and started right up. As for valve seat issue do a compression test to verify the cylinder and head health. I wonder if the cetane of the fuel was just too low? I'm starting to wonder if fuels were changed over to weather fuel soon enough this year. I know I'm not a big fan of it but you might try a measured dose of cetane booster and see if that helps. But if it does it could be fuel cetane related and it could be compression related too.

Ok. Any error codes present? Is your grid heater working properly? Is the fusible link burnt or blown for the grid heaters? Is your IAT sensor reporting the proper temperature at start up?

22*F degrees this morning. Walk in the park. Now the only change is my Fire Chief called last night and has few odd jobs down at the fire stations to do.