Mopar1973Man

Hold on a sec. Pin weight of 1,100 pounds which is 20% of the 5,500 trailer weight. My rear axle is only around 2,860 to 3,200 with GAWR of 6,084# so... even using my high number 3,200 + 1,100 = 4,300 pounds... Hua? Nowhere near axle weight rating. Just adding the front and rear GAWR is 5200 + 6084 = 11,284... Here comes back the 11,000 number you mentioned... Which now re-run the tow check its 5th wheel 12,300 and conv. trailer is 12,500 again.

Ok. Rephrase the comment not excessive blow by. It doesn't blow the cap off nor dance in the hole. I would rather go by compression test than blow by. I've laid under the truck with it idling and it just lightly puffing a light vapor out. Nothing like the CR engines I've seen so far. Unscrew the cap and POP watch the cap go flying... As for information I'm going to talk to Lindy tomorrow at work and see what he's got to say. I really doubt rings and pistons. Runs way too good and no noises. MPG are still up to spec just oil usage is up.

Exactly... No catch bottle on mine.

Then I'd better sell my Cummins and buy a Ford...

GVWR of the trailer not the truck. I'm rated to tow 13,400# worth of trailer. If I input your numbers then everything is way off. Max 5th Wheel Towing - 6,500# (Right!) Max Conventional Towing -10,400# Still way low from book.

Same here glued all fitting and used a threaded down pipe.

Well if your worried about injectors then just pull them and have them pop tested to verify there condition. Like myself I'm getting some oil smoke now most likely from bad valve seals. But for hard starts you might have air in the fuel lines or weak compression. More here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/40-basic-diagnostics

I'm using air brake line for my gauge its rated to a burst strength of 600-800 PSI. Copper is risky because 9 times out of 10 the vibration will crack the tubing. Cheap oil pressure tubing (nylon) typically fails from heat and becomes brittle. As for isolators they tend to always skew fuel pressure readings.

Personally I would run the HX35 over the HY35. Cooler EGT's and better flow of exhaust.

Just think of it 78.09% of compressed air is N2 Nitrogen already. The other 20.95% is O2 oxygen. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth

The other truck sounds like a cab and chassis. They typically have a solid axle with king pins. Now the standard Dodge front end should be control arms and coil springs.

Pretty darn close here...

Yea... Sorry to say all the fiddling I've done with my fuel system I can say it's a one way trip. There is no pulling that fitting out again you'll have to cut thee line and re-press the fitting back in. Might bee time to talk to Eric over at Vulcan Performance and getting another length of hose before your start.

It's on the the very back of of the P7100 injection pump. Look at the back there and see the bolt and jam nut.

Just check the compressor wheel standard up/down movement but no rub. Then no movement in/out. I though about pulling the turbo and checking the manifold for oil. Right now I'm looking for possible ideas and start gather up stuff to handle the project.

Here is another good tool.... http://rvtowcheck.com/

Even Towhungerford said the same thing if the seal kit doesn't fix it up then the valve guides would need to be replaced. (Head Job).

I need to see load pressure. Free revving is typically very very low volume requirement. (0.1 GPH maybe) But under full load powering down the highway the flow rate is way different. (~20 GPH) This why you should always have a pressure gauge in the cab.

Is this highway RPM or neutral RPM? Typo? Do a AC noise voltage check on the alternator.

This oil change is up to 2 quarts of oil in like 3-4k miles. So its time to look and see where its going.

Ok. If you want to test stand the whole thing if you have a friend with a like model truck you should be able to trade ECM's and see if the problem trades. Another thing to look at is... Does the "Wait To Start" light come right on or does it delay to come on? This is sign of bad memory in the ECM and having booting issues.

The only reliable source for ECM that I know of is the Dodge Dealer. Re-manufacture shops are a bit risky if you decide to try it. Make sure to get the warranty in writing and be sure you ready for hit and miss. Some have had good luck and many other have a brick or door stop that comes back in the mail.

Likeoldfords, I gather you had the same problem occur?

Great minds think alike...

Yes. You just run the piston up to TDC and then compress the springs. The valves will rest on the top of the piston. So now just change your valve seals.