Mopar1973Man

What the heck is going on with fuel prices you keep hearing about how the prices are going to come down. Ok here where I'm at in Central Idaho the price of diesel is still 3.759 and not changed. But unleaded gasoline has now pushed lower to 2.939 as of today. I'm going to have to park the Cummins and start driving the V8 again. But if the price of crude is going down should both diesel and gasoline be going down equally?

I noticed that too you coolant temp is way too low for optimal engine performance. Should be 190-195*F or just slight to the right of the 190*F mark.

I found this sign in a Winger's Restaurant in Ontario, OR and thought about you...

I curious if you have a boost issue and leaning against the P0234 code but not tripped it yet. You didn't mention any modules so I'm wondering.

Always have the alternator bench tested before you leave the store. I've heard this so many time to come home install their new alternator and find they got another bad alternator.

I tend to agree with AH64ID on the front tire pressures. Everything math wise at least for 4,400 pounds typically put you up around 55-65 PSI. It might also account for the lower MPG numbers being you pushing the front axle more so.

I'm lucky where I live with all the distance from everything. So I've got just about 15 miles to work by about 5-7 miles I can typically start getting heat (south Pollock) but 8-9 miles I'm at full 190*F temperature (north Pollock). Then if I go the other way to McCall to the store then I've got a grade to climb to get out the canyon. No problem there I'm fully warmed up typically in under 5 miles from the house. So mountain living with a diesel you can most certain hit full temp within a few miles typically. This is of course with full cover of the grill area.

I would opt for the injectors to be tested. If cylinder health is good then its a fuel issue... There is only 2 things needed for diesel to fire. Compression and fuel. So if the compression is correct then its going to be a fuel issue. I still think injector pop testing is in order. It might be just a poor tuned injector maybe or something sticking? Won't know till you do some more testing.

I see you both from the same state... Oh My I bet the cops look for you...

Interesting... Once long ago I use to be brave like that and take trucks into places I shouldn't.

Red probe at the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator and black probe on the NEG battery post. Start the engine and measure.

There was someone here that was into Rat rods but I can seem to find him now.

From what I understand the Smarty updates to the most current stock flash so I wonder if the Smarty tune itself was the change in all the MAP readings? Still I would just for fun contact Bob Wagner and see what he's got to say or if there is actually a software bug.

Here you go NAPA listing at least. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Thermostat-OE-Exact/_/R-THM456200_0420240722

Just remember EV2's are strictly electric.

I'm going to have to bookmark this and get these bits and piece myself.

At any rate the OP should be able to get a new flash for his Smarty to correct the ECM software? Most likely from Bob Wagner correct?

Well you confirmed the cylinder health is good now you'll have to move on to the injectors. Have them pop tested. TFaoro was that compression test supplied by Harbor Freight have all the right fittings for testing? If so I'm going to look into buying a compression gauge myself. I work on enough diesel locally I really could use it.

The I would suggest to the OP to re-run the settings again and see if the same thing is happening twice? So AH64ID if he can reproduce the problem it would be a software error on Smarty part correct?

Something is going on if running a program is skewing the output data versus stock programming and shows correct.

Like AH64ID has shown in the past the stock ECM tends to be retarded in timing for the most part.

It's all good we all make dumb mistakes. But at leas its a easy fix to the problem.

Typically I suggest using a smaller injector but using a fuel module like Edge Juice or Edge Comp for management of fuel and added fuelling. Using a large nozzle might reduce MPG's for a daily driver. But if this truck is going to be strictly strip and track then I say go for it. Grab the big injectors and a module.

Simple... It's a 5 speed transmission. Just stick in 5h gear and set the parking brake. An automatic I would get creative with a wedge or strap on the front pulley. Make sure you report all your compression numbers.