Mopar1973Man

Yes Sir... Ready to be burned as soon as it split. Not really typically get most of my wood in spring and let it sit all summer in the shed curing. Already got 7 cord in the shed now. Pine and Red Fir are close in the BTU numbers. Tamarack is actually better wood but hard to fine out here.

Nice. Red Fir is a good firewood. I just tend to lean away from using solely a primary fuel. Kind of like diesel engine with a huge set of injectors and small turbo. You get lots of smoke and lots of heat. So I tend to mix up with some lighter BTU firewood to offset the fuel amount. So I can easily start a morning fire and warm the house with some Alpine Fir or Spruce where it doesn't get too hot and require a choke down of the air of the stove. Just food for thought... I really do hate having to clean a chimney in December...

Here you go... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/21962-cavitation-not-your-vp-44s-friend.html Sorry to say the video is long gone...

Same as the stock Carter lift pump which has the same problem for caviation because of recirculating fuel back to the inlet.

Pull him over and make him unload the trailer on to vehicle/trailer that can properly haul the load. If the trailer is over gross weight limit he would be force to unload and reload to proper vehicle. Of course all the owner responsibility to pay all the fees and fines...

Time to look at the date code of the tires and replace any that are over 5 years old. Also did you check your air pressure before leaving? How fast where you traveling?

That's is the point the AirDog and FASS have a dedicated return line that returns the flow back to the tank. The Raptor on the other hand returns within the pump body. Raptors are prone to the caviation issues like the old stock Carter's because of the return within the body. If Raptor was a dedicated return pump then the problem most likely wouldn't exist. As for my volume numbers they are just roughly speaking.

Most of us don't even own a tachometer we just do it by ear. As for the grinder for $40 bucks that's rather cheap. As long as you only taking small bites at the chain shouldn't be any problem. Also the grinder is known for weak grinding motor but that's a good thing because it not strong enough to over heat the chain cutter and take the temper out of the metal. Just sharpens.

Rather good with tuning saws and sharpening chains. A matter of fact this same friend this morning sharpen both saws for me on his little Harbor Freight Chain Sharpener. Works really good and does a excellent job of re-tuning a well worn chain back to specs again. http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221-8346.html As for tuning the carburetor on a chainsaw you have to be careful with the mixtures screws. L mixture screw you want to set it so it idles smoothly. H mixture screw you want to be on the rich side. If its too lean it will starve the engine for lube oil and over heat it rapidly. This is hard to explain in words on how its suppose to sound as you start from over rich working back lean there a particular sound of blubbering you'll hear then light fade it back. But don't go for absolute perfect smooth once again it will be most likely to lean.

Well back at it again. Buddy down the road called me this morning and wanted to haul firewood. I was considering just buying a few cords but being the waiting list is too long. I'll just hop out and get a load. So hook up with him this morning...

For AirDog or FASS with 3 lines. The return line is the remaining fuel flow back to the tank so if your injecting 2.5 GPH the other 147.5 is flow back on the return lines (injection pump and fuel pump). Now Raptor and other like pumps with 2 lines (no return line) now those return the fuel internally. So again a 150 GPH pump will return the same 147.5 GPH internally and the return line of the VP44. This is where cavitation is possible.

I wonder what Idaho DOT officer would do... I'm pretty sure he's over weight for sure.

Did you look at the all wheel drive thing for the winter time travel?

I've been doing that for a very long time. Just come in from splitting wood or cutting wood and have sap on my hands. No problem just grab the rubbing alcohol and rub my hands together and then wash then with soap and water afterwards. Got sap on your seats? No problem I used the rubbing alcohol to remove it from fabric or clothing as well.

There you go back to the cavitation because now you'll be primed for low pressure on one side of the pump and high pressure on the other plus the recirculation of the fuel within the pump. It was a known issue even back with the stock Carter pumps. A guy named Gary over on CF create a video showing the cavitation problem with even a stock pump. But now with a slight vacuum on the fuel tank I can imagine it gets worse.

Propane part of the fridge. That easy! The igniter probe is also a thermocouple of sorts its called flame rectification. Flame Rectification sensing1.pdf

Might read over it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation

It could be cavitation of the pump from the recirculation of the fuel. I don't have the bobbing problem at all very very stable pressure.

Reason I like the windows and door silicone is because at oil change time it cleans up really easy compared to other RTV or diff cover sealants. Never had a leak. I've seen a few sealants that have made a absolute mess of the bolt holes and now you got to run a tap in even hole clean the threads. Then have to run a wire brush over the bolts. Way too much work for diff oil change.

I typically just use the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press to change u-joints. Take my impact to press in and press out... Absolutely no problems here.

What I use I know lots of people think I'm nuts... http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-I-9-8-oz-Clear-Window-and-Door-Caulk-GE012A-24C/100091111

I typically just use silicone and hand tighten the bolts no measurements really.

Only way to really check u-joint right is remove the shaft. Also while the shaft is out double check the weights on it. You might find a old weight has flew off and you'll see the old spot weld.

That is very very rare for me to experience unless I'm driving like I stole it. Other than that I would say you have excessive clearance on the pickup tube. There should be about 1/16 to 1/8 of inch from the tank bottom to the tip of the pickup tube. Then the tube should be cut flat and not at a angle. Really common for old school draw straws and improper installment.

Usually the water hammer pulses eats the senders not the ULSD. Like I got a Cummins low pressure switch and water hammer ate it in about 2 years. Now with the 2nd low pressure switch I've got it behind the needle valve with the gauge and both live a very happy life now and no issues for many years. I would start by removing the isolator and hooking directly and see if there is a isolator issue. Also remember the water hammer pulses are being sent to the isolator so the diaphragm is vibrating internally so it does wear out as well from the pulses. This why I'm asking to direct connect and see if its a translation problem between the isolator and gauge.