Mopar1973Man

Something is going on if running a program is skewing the output data versus stock programming and shows correct.

Like AH64ID has shown in the past the stock ECM tends to be retarded in timing for the most part.

It's all good we all make dumb mistakes. But at leas its a easy fix to the problem.

Typically I suggest using a smaller injector but using a fuel module like Edge Juice or Edge Comp for management of fuel and added fuelling. Using a large nozzle might reduce MPG's for a daily driver. But if this truck is going to be strictly strip and track then I say go for it. Grab the big injectors and a module.

Simple... It's a 5 speed transmission. Just stick in 5h gear and set the parking brake. An automatic I would get creative with a wedge or strap on the front pulley. Make sure you report all your compression numbers.

I'm not sure why the 98.5 to 02 show this skewed number of PSIa number. But after 03 on its back to normal. As for using thee SGII with my 96 Dodge V8 it works just fine. It shows proper PSIa readings.

I just checked and CPP (Cummins Performance Parts) carries FASS pumps. Let Jamie know you came from Mopar1973Man.Com.

Smarty tends to modify the data for some reason. I've worked with Pepsi71ocean with ScanGauge II and Smarty issues but it seems the Smarty tends to modify the data coming out so other device tend to display erred information.

I do the same thing. But, Lindy down at the shop tends to lift the vehicle off the floor and then leave the return line off and engine off. Then pan the steering from left to right several times till empty. Then hook up the return line and then fills it back up with fluid. Then pan the steering slowly with the engine off and purge the system of air. Then its ready for starting up. But this is generic method for all vehicles.

Or the alternator fuse.

Might call Eric @ Vulcan Performance. That's where I got my replacement line for my system not bad for price either.

I'm one of the few that never got a warranty card back in the 2006 period. So I'm screwed already.

As long as you making one change at a time and measuring each change. Then yes.

Like both Yankneck696 and myself have called Pureflow about this and heard all the acknowledgements of the issues. But I think its a matter of too little too late.

Comparing mine from 2006 to current. * Mounting brackets are now plastic compare to steel in the past. * Wingnuts is news to me but my old 2006 is all Nyloc and harden bolts (grade 5 I think). * Plumbing is quick connect and pre-cut. My old system gave you the fittings and a roll of hose. This made it nice for custom installs.

Sad... I typically suggest buying new so at least you get manufacture support and warranty on your new toy.

Mine happened yesterday and today... Maybe tomorrow will be a better day.

Well even mine feels fine from year to year but I know if I don't change it every 30k miles it tend to whine in the cold of the winters. Just like engine oil the power steering fluid (or ATF in this case) has to lubricate the pump and parts and withstand heating and cooling of the fluid eventually it does break down and require changing.

Power steering fluid could be... But typically it should whine when you pulling against the steering wouldn't it? But if it been quite some time I tend to agree with AH64ID and just say change it.

Sad to say most here will suggest you look towards FASS now being AirDog have lost there quality in the pumps. Seems like you here of constant issues with AirDogs now and most are looking for other options like FASS or FuelBoss (mechanical pump).

I've done exactly that for 10 years without a single leak in the cab. So I'm sure with the proper setup and routing of your tubing you can get that kind of service and more. From what I can figure out on isolators they typically end up taking the full hit of the water hammer pulse constantly flexing the diaphragm/piston till it ruptures or till the coolant leaks out. I've not found anyone yet that made any kind of long term head way with isolator installed with a mechanical gauge.

Welcome to the family. Make sure to ask plenty of questions. No dumb questions here and most people here will dig up any information you need. You should not get "Use the search function" or "Google it" for answers... So pull up a comfy chair, cup of hot coffee and get to reading. If anything you don't understand please ask!

During reloading with gear fluid I suggest you load the diff completely full till its running out. The find a large area and do several tight figure eights. Then check your level again. I typically load mine till the fluid runs out the hole slightly. Then checking fluids is really easy. Loosen the plug, tip, if fluid runs out its full, tighten.

Edge EZ have had issues with the circuit boards corroding and shorting out from water / moisture problems.

Ok... Good I just wanted to verify that fact. Way too many people just leave it sit and rev the engine up with a heavy foot. But now you also need to address the pressure fail. 3-5 PSI is more of a typical span of pressure fall. 8-10 PSI is rather scary. Like myself with winter weather I'm seeing 2-3 PSI drop in the cold.