Mopar1973Man

One person I need to get on this thread is Dorkweed that ran 84,000 miles on a single oil change with cheap ol' Walmart oil.

Not suppose to hold pressure after the pump shuts down.

I typically disconnect the batteries (Positive cable) and charge my batteries. I know that most battery chargers are rather dirty DC power. You would have to use shielded cable to prevent the noise injection of the sensor.

Now thinking about that my little trip back to Burgdorf will make you think. To this day there is no city power back there at all. Everything is either all solar or gasoline generator. Being Warren, ID is even farther back and started this area back in the 1870's these people lived without modern anything and still do. Like stopping Secesh Meadows was a real treat being the bar was open and owner was remodeling. Most all lighting in the bar was either 12V or propane. As for fridge I'm not sure what they got... But there is a little village back there without modern city power and live to this day without it. Hex just make a trip down to me I'll show you around to places and people that live without power (or other modern stuff).

Good morning Pollock, Idaho. Yuck!

Thanks Katoom... As for the PSG failure I do think there is a certain amount of failure from heat, then a certain amount of failure from AC noise, then another amount from physical abuse/vibration. Ed brings up the topic of the junk lead free solder. But if you watch some of the videos where people replace the transistor they will talk about the legs of the OE transistor being aluminum (or a alloy of some type). Solder won't stick to it. Make you wonder about what was use on the OE.

You should see it now this morning I can barely see the next ridge north of me. Every morning the inversion sets in and lays the smoke down good. Naw... This is all lodge pole. A lot of people like this stuff I feel there is just too much saw work for such a little piece. I'll still burn it. But I would cut either 4 foot or 8 foot poles and haul them out. Then I have to buck it up again at home.

Might want to look at this...

Hard on my system being I've got the stock filter can so the fuel in the fuel filter can is going to be warm and not shock the VP44 on restart. Where someone that deleted the can might see this issue. (But again this all theory right now.) I've worked with Ed and also tried working with ScanGauge II on getting fuel temp for the ScanGauge. They just don't want to help me with the old school ISO bus system they would rather only support the newer CANBUS systems.

You can put it in the 123 side or just move all the way up against turbo on the 456 port. If its truly welded up properly that should all be one piece of metal once again so it should be good to drill and tap again. Another idea is to just replace the manifold but they are not cheap.

Last Batch...

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Well MoparMom and Myself had go out of the house for day trip to Burgdorf and Secesh Meadows, ID. Here is a pile of pictures from our trip.

Now that where you got to study up on diodes and the alternator brushes and see what the impact could be. So far my truck under a cold start <60*F with grid heater might have a slight surge to .6 but its so fast of change my fluke meter has a hard time catching it. A analog meter would most likely show it better but finding a multi-frequency analog meter is tough.

I just pull out the fluke meter now and then and check the voltage and move on...

http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/xgauges-for-iso-vpw-vehicles/ Mostly what I use is MPG for the today, Instant MPG, IAT, and Coolant Temp this is for the Cummins. Now if I was in the 96 Dodge gasser I would be using the O2 sensor, IGN (Timing), MAP, IAT...

AC noise from the alternator... Just like Computers they can't stand dirty power from a cheap or bad power supply and typically eat the CPU or RAM. So in the same sense if you able to run the VP44 off the batteries only and no alternator you never have failure or least extremely low failure rate. Like my alternator is still in the 0.01-0.02 AC volt range extremely low. So every time the AC cycle work run the polarity backwards (negative wave on a positive line) the current is shoved into the transistors creating even more heat. Any think about it the ECM is on the side of the block in direct contact of the coolant jacket. That is a true computer without ventilation, no heat sink, no coolant, nothing. What kills the ECM more so... AC noise...

ECM controls the oil pressure signal. But as far as I got from ScanGauge II they don't want to bother to aid any one with our trucks because it just too hard to code X-Gauges for non-CANBUS systems.

Original VP44 died at 50k miles. My current VP44 has 183k miles no issues. Summer weather as high as 115*F and winter weather as low as -25*F.

In my case it would be best to ditch the stock fuel filter can to quit absorbing heat from the manifold. Remember there is a coolant passage in the intake for this reason. But since I'm in the northern states and cold winters do happen (-25*F) I'll keep the stock filter can. Again... Think about it. I've got 4 computers and under full load I can see 160-180*F working temp of the CPU. Also remember I don't have air conditioning here in the house so it possible to see 85-87*F inside the house. Just idling around at 10% load I'm still 130-140*F. This computer is over 5 years old and no harm has come from working it for 48 hours straight at 100% load. (Doing web site backups) Even worse take my laptop to work and use it in a shop with room temperature of 105*F and still work the laptop well into the 160-180*F range and no issues. So why would a mere 130*F fuel temp be a panic for the VP44? Also once again how many reported P0168 codes have you seen? (I've only see one!)

Good try... Next time you'll do better.

Welcome to the family...

It true the lag in WTS light is a sign of a failed ECM. What is happening the ECM is having errors or internal issues getting booted up and the first function does typically is check the IAT sensor for manifold temp and then turn on the grid heaters. So since the memory in side the ECM is damaged there is booting errors so the ECM keeps retrying to boot till it make it. This is the lag I speak of. So now what caused this failure? Typically the alternator with a bad diode creating excessive amount of AC noise. So at this point the only way to start is to wait for the WTS light to come on. Then you know the ECM is booted up.