Mopar1973Man

All good... Not meant to attack you either...

Well as for dash removal I'm pretty sure I won't have too much issue I don't think. I've had mind swung out for the air conditioning and heater core project twice so I don't thing it would be too bad to get the top panel off. When you say the screws dash outlets which do you mean the face vents of defrosters vents?

I'll keep that knowledge in the back of my head now... Thanks!

I agree I would rather run full 1/2". Both 3/8 and 1/2 will work but the pressure is more stable on 1/2 lines that 3/8" so there is less pressure fall from idle WOT on 1/2" lines typically.

May I ask if you a tester now for Smarty?

First off select the mode you want BEFORE starting. Then start the truck. Leave the switch set don't change till your ready to roll then select either MPG or OFF. That should resolve your issue. The problem is most people turn the knob too slow it breaks the circuit to the IAT just long enough to show a super low temperature and POOF 3 cylinder mode is set. To cancel this mess shut off the ignition wait 15 seconds of so and high idle is completely cancelled. Yes. that's the only way to cancel the mode. Actually I was the creator of the high idle but Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) redesigned the unit to current setup.

Problem up here is the outside temperatures and how much exposed chimney you have. Like when I had my chimney liner install the pip stuck out another 12-16 inches from the original chimney. This now combined with the near minus temperatures doesn't matter how hot you burn that pipe is still cool enough to condense creosote. So you have to limit the amount of expose pipe as possible. I trimmed mine off right next to the existing chimney. Now this still doesn't fix it all. The existing chimney is all stone and block. As the cold winter come on the first 2-3 foot will plug up but looking down the chimney the rest is clean. I typically run 1,400 to 1,600*F pyrometer temp on initial startup and then cut back to 800-900*F as a burn temp.

I've been playing with gearing and speed. I find that head down canyon is fine for 5th but actually does slightly better running 4th gear at 55 MPH back home.

Here is what home looks like as of tonight...

That I would ask Ed (Yankneck696) about that...

I'm give a bit of a spoiler to the members here. I just called Eric over at Vulcan Performance and talked to him. First off I told him Thank You for creating the bracket for me and it worked out awesome. Then I told him some of selling angles like remote mounting of the senders gives easy access for testing and sensor replacement. The Eric told me about how they are getting the design cleaned up a bit more for production. I told him what I use for materials and fittings as well as lengths of tubing. He added there might be a test schrader valve added as well. He also told me that he really hates to have anything more mounted on the engine and rather have everything remote mounted. So he was thankful for the feedback I had to give for him. So you might keep a eye out for a new product for electric gauges.

Don't I wish... We where just talking about just having a laser thermometer would be awesome even for this purpose.

Basically 56㏀ (or 56,000Ω) which should be (Green, Blue, Orange, Gold) and it will test for 3 cylinder high idle. Typically found at a Radio Shack for a couple of bucks.

As for readings they are identical to the older DiPricols. As for everyday driving back and forth to work I'm down to even lower numbers. I see roughly 400-500*F with 0-2 PSI boost going to work with cruise set at 55 MPH. Coming home up the grade I'm running 500-600*F with 2-3 PSI boost with cruise set at 55 MPH. MPG average round trip is around 23-24 MPG still using the 55 MPH speed limit. Now if I kick it up to 65 MPH now everything goes away. 600-700*F with 2-5 PSI going down to work and 700-800* with 5-7 PSI heading home. Average MPG is about 17-19.. Yes. that 10 MPH make that much difference. As for the grade its roughly 1.2% figuring a 1,000 foot fall in elevation for 15 miles. As for the pyrometer is very very quick to react compared ot the old DiPricol that was get slow. I going to assume the probe was start to fail because it work for about week and occasionally drop and pop up. No amp on this direct connect to the probe on the DiPricol but same on the ISSPro EV2's. I'm loving the remote mounting of sender more so. This make it really handy when it comes time to test like fuel pressure or boost gauge reading I can remove the sender and hook a mechanical gauge up and test without digging. Sender fails (if and when) I can easily remove and replace.

Gotcha covered... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/category/9-quadzilla-tunes/

Well... (Yawn) I got a called out to chimney fire last night the owner managed to put the live active fire out. But the creosote smoldered for quite some time creating hot spots in the blocks and walls. Nothing actually burned on the outside of the chimney but got it dangerously hot so all we could do is ventilate the house and cool the walls down by air and monitor. I highly suggest all wood burning people inspect your chimney. If you have a older block and liner chimney I would also suggest you consider getting a stainless steel liner installed.

Been burning off and on since October first. I've got 8.5 cords in the shed split and stack and dry. I'm ready. I've also got another 2-3 cords in rounds and logs yet to be processed. Mornings are cool to cold ranging from 35-45*F and day time highest been barely 70-75*F.

Ok...

Bingo! Now realize Marine Deep Cycles are a cross breed between both so its got enough starting amps for engine but has some sort of amp/hours as well. True Deep cycles are design much differently than starting batteries.

Very Nice. I've wanted to post my pictures but I don't think they are that impressive.

Factory heated seat are typically controlled by the central timer under the dash. But I'm not sure how the system controls heat or what. So I'm not sure if the heater thermal controlled or what?

If space and weight wasn't a issue. http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/ind33-2v/ 2,405 Amp/hours @ 100 hours... 278 pounds per battery! Now that some power.

I work with both methods... (Series and Parallel) Four 6 volt batteries in series to give me the 24 volts the inverter requires to operate. Then parallel in another batch of four 6 volt batteries to increase the amp/hours. So each row gives me 410 amp hours for a total of 820 amp/hours. But took the 6 volt batteries because they have more amp/hours over the 12 volt batteries. Just like a RV but this system powers my actual house.

Because the other stuff are on a different fuse. Instrument cluster you can test. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/30-interior/47-instrument-cluster-testing

Sorry to say this become a low priority project for now. Maybe get back to it in the dead of winter or next spring.