Mopar1973Man

That truck got wrecked at 1.3 million and he just sold it not to long ago.

Yeah... CR engines are sure fun once you get them deleted and tweaked. But parts are much more expensive. Trust me I thought about upgrading but I just can't get over the simple 24V design and it does work just fine after you get it tweaked in.

Like I said with a boss like him I can't go wrong...

Not that I've heard of even CajFlynn went through a VP44 about every 100-200k miles from what I remember.

No I see your kitchen is laid out way different than mine. The rest of the floor plan looks the same but your kitchen is different. Look like you got it all fixed up rather well and just about ready for the road.

You might want to thank every one on the site being it mostly their information that your learning but I'm just the ring master keeping it organized.

I've got a really cool Boss to work for down at the shop. Well today we finished our work load a bit early and decided to clean up the shop and our tools early. I caught Lindy combining two jugs of aluminum brightener. Then he spins around and says' "Pull your truck over by the power washer." I responded I don't have aluminum mags on that truck (1996) its got chrome wheels." So I do any ways. So he tells me to man the power washer and rinse after he scrubs then down lightly. I rinse the first wheel off and OMG! Talk about removing a bunch of brake dust and brighten that wheel up. He continues to do the wheels and then the bumpers and the grill. Talk about looking really nice and bright. Then he heads in the shop and get out the good car soap and washes the truck down for me. He like, "I can't have you driving around in that dirty truck!" But I will admit that aluminium brightener really does work. It's a acid so make sure to get the wheels rinse down quickly and not leave it sit on them too long. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MCR1458_0075100080

As I close my day out... Hi 79*F Current 71*F Lo 47*F

Starting the morning off at 47*F... Brrr...

This is why I always suggest the Stealth Plate over wire tapping.

How far below the tag voltage? Idle speed is based on Engine Coolant Temperature so the colder the engine the higher the idle will be. So if the sensor is off and showing higher temperature than normal then the idle speed is reduced. Also if the pop pressure is excessive high then the timing will be retarded on the injectors so then the idle speed is lower. Very rare a VP44 can't make idle. But it more common to see injector issues creating weird issues.

Here is from the site vendors... DieselAutoPower http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/rv275-oem-bosch.htm Vulcan Performance http://www.vulcanperformance.com/New-Bosch-RV-275-Injectors-p/rv275.htm

Sure... If you don't have account on the article database let me know I'll get you set up...

Check this out... MoparMom started picking the blackberries and they are huge this year. Size of my thumb at times.

I gotta get my firewood finished for the year. I need to make 2 more runs out to the forest. I'm watching the weather change now here a bit colder in the mornings now down to 47-52*F. I'm kind of figuring on a not as cold winter but a snowy winter.

Simple way of checking this and being sure there is no voltage loss in the wiring to and from the VP44. That is called doing a voltage drop test which happens to be in the article database already. The only difference is that you will not be checking while cranking but while the engine is running (wiring under load). Any wire with a voltage loss of 0.2 or more is a instant fail. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables Or another way is to ohm each wire from end to end and if the ohm is greater than 5 ohms its a instant fail.

Dorkweed is right Toilet paper is completely safe for filter media. I've got the Frantz Filter on my truck and continue to run 7.5-10k oil changes.

Really? Yes Sir... PM sent.

I would tend to say this would be more so common with weak battery cables or weak batteries. Because there is one rule that will never change. Watts = Volts x Amps So if the Watts or load of the device stays the same and the voltage is reduced from normal 13.5-14.5 volts down to 10.5 during a hard crank now the Amps always will jump up in respect to the loss of voltage. So same would be true for devices in the VP44. So lets say the transistor is marginal about current flow it could be just a bad ground cable on the battery that would increase the current flow on the VP44. Here what I mean. 100 Watt load = 14.5 Volts x 6.89 Amps 100 Watt load = 13.5 Volts x 7.40 Amps 100 watt load = 10.5 Volts x 9.52 Amps Cummins States 8 Volts is rock bottom voltage. 100 Watt load = 8.0 Volts x 12.5 Amps So just weak connections, bad ground or weak batteries could add extra current flow or heat to a device or single component. Food for thought...

I would say its suppose to be grounded. I would redo the that back to a clean body ground.

Wow. You did good.

Like with Linux I pre-process the video file with KDEnLive by converting to like a MPG4 or MP4. This typically compresses the file a bit more. Then upload it. My speeds are nothing to write home about at...

(Big Grin) You must of had fun sitting in the Captains seat of that beast. Fixed your youtube link..

That brings up a valid thought. How many people have butchered battery cables? How many have butchered electrical systems? How many have let their battery go dead or below 10.8 volts? How many have not paid attention during jump starting another vehicle and cross the polarity? All these things will affect the life of the alternator at some point or another. Like my battery cable are absolutely perfect like new yet. (0 voltage loss during cranking) I've never cut or modified any power system wiring on my truck. No added grounds or anything. I'm very cautious about my batteries I will refill with distilled water and then equalize charge the batteries while disconnected from the system once a month. I've never let my battery go dead! I always call out "Red is POSITIVE" to the other person so there is no mistakes.

This exact configuration is on the back of the alternator now. (Full wave rectifier). So if you put this on the charge lead there would be zero or very little voltage would be at the far side. Why? Because you only see the rectified AC already rectified DC. So if there was 0.1 AC noise from the alternator the output now would be 0.1 DC volts.