Mopar1973Man

MoparMom says, "No hunting from the deck!" If I was to go hunting for a turkey I'd have to go up behind the house.

Did you test the injectors to see the spray pattern or pop pressures? Do you have air in your fuel? You might hook up a piece of clear tubing and loop it on the windshield and see if there is any air bubbles.

It seem like the ol' 1996 is finally giving me some grief. No longer have 1st gear unless I manual shift to 1 or 2 gear then it engages 1st gear. But I'm getting 2 error codes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/385-p1762-gov-press-sen-offset-volts-too-low-or-high http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/387-p1764-governor-pressure-sensor-volts-too-low With the amount of miles I've got on the truck at 156k and it the original transmission I'm opting to let Lindy's friend in McCall, ID do the service work to the transmission. If he sees anything else while the pan is off then he can go through and fix it. I know the Governor Pressure Sensor is the problem and most likely failed. But what other wearable parts and solenoids could there be? I'm not automatic trans man at all. Alpine Auto https://plus.google.com/102270410291765694865/about?gl=us&hl=en

So which one should I take?

Go to my computer and look at the photos. Then select them on the other window and upload. I have to do the very same thing even with Ubuntu Linux.

24V guys stepping in here... Like with 24V engine I only suggest 4-6 PSI over design pressure this allows for buffer room to keeping your minimum pressure met at WOT runs. If you getting pressure fall out during WOT I would typical suggest looking for restrictions like plugged fuel filter, kink line, weak pump etc. But really there should be no reason for over pressurizing the system to over design failure. We had guys running old mechanical lift pump from 12V's running up to 40 PSI on a 24V and the risk you take is popping the front seal out of the VP44 well in your case the CP3. So to the OP I would get a gauge in the cab ASAP then tone the pressure down a wee bit and get back to a normal range.

Correct that is my Frantz Bypass filter return line. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/garage/vehicle/2-dodge-ram-2500/?tab=mods&mod_id=12

As provided by the site. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=core&module=help&do=01&HID=8

Try either... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/2285-me78569/ or http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/892-yankneck696/ Those two guys would know what can be used or not. Being the company went out of business I really doubt there is going to be much for parts.

Cummins kit if I remember right doesn't have any instructions just the seals. Only paid $13 bucks for it.

Ahhh... Just pull the nails out of the ash and straighten again. (Recycle-Reuse!)

Just for fun I hauled out this even shot a quick bit of video in 640x480 29 fps. I could of cranked it up in HD mode and really sucked up the memory card. But I wanted to see what good old 640x480 would do. It would give me 2 hours of video time and reduce the file size of the video. It's a bit grainy after YouTube process again but that what its all about doing test runs right?

I'm not looking forward to being stabbed in the back when I roll into town Monday morning to get fuel. I'm sure its still $3.759 yet.

With my 3000 PSI washer I tend to keep at least 1 foot from the radiators and coolers. But there is nothing better than removing them and getting the job done correctly.

Let's hear them. I thought I had a vacuum pump thread but I guess not.

Hmmm... The only thing I would say that I'm doing different that all the past is the main oil filter is NAPA filter. I might have to go back up to Grangeville, ID to the Cummins shop and get a few Fleetguard filters.

I've got a vacuum pump seal kit sitting in the shop one day I'll have to jump in and change that. But the thing is since I started working with Lindy at the shop he's made it a point to take the nasty rides outside hit them with "Power Clean" and then power wash them off. Typically done first thing in the morning or last thing before we leave. This way they dry you pull it in the shop and you can work on a fairly clean rig and not be up to your elbows in grease and dirt dropping in your face. Well since he gave me his old power washer I've been doing weekly wash downs. Man take about nice to work on your own rig and you don't even really need a rag. Also now since the block is dry it really does show up the leaks really well. But I will admit if you got any thick dirt/grease build up it takes several washing to get rid of it. So be patient.

Well ever since I've starting to work with Lindy I've really taken interest in making my truck near perfect again. I'm actually chasing down all the little weeping leaks. Like I've known about a fuel leak for quite awhile in the back either #6 injector line or the return at the back of the head. So since I've been keeping the rig washed down it really showing up now. So now I pulled the valve cover snugged the return banjo. This really made the job easy to reach the banjo bolt. As a matter of fact the IAT sensor is a breeze to get at without the hoist ring and the valve cover. Then backed off and reseated the injector line. So later on I got to degrease the back of the engine again and check again. It leaves a light fuel residue on the block and bottom of the bellhousing. But never drips on the floor of the shop. I'm also watch my pan gasket start to weep a bit. While the valve cover was off I might as well run the valve lash again. Not really bad but some were just a bit loose for my liking. Intake (0.008") and Exhaust (0.018"). I like snug! Needless to say in the wet highway 4th gear spins the tires now...

I wish... Diesel $3.759 Gasoline $3.479

Down at the shop we use Super Clean... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCB101724_0006395256 Spray it on let it soak on warm surface like 100-140*F engine is excellent. Next fire up the power washer and blow the crude out of it.

Shouldn't be any different than what I get for coolant temps. 193-195*F... I'm completely blocked off on the grill.

Moved...

Thermostat time and maybe a fan clutch. Right now it starting morning temps is about 35-40*F and afternoon highs are in the 50's... I'm running my winter front the grill is completely covered. I never get above 195*F. If you radiator is truly clean where you removed it and power washed it till your can see through it. It shouldn't have any issues at all. Even my radiator still has to be remove from time to time to be cleaned.

Kind of like my vacuum pump seal started leaking one time had oil scattered all over the transmission. Changed oil and it stopped just shows signs of weeping now and then.

Absolutely correct...