Mopar1973Man

I've got 5V at the sensor plug and the P0533 code is return on the next key cycle. We've got a new sensor on order (not cheap) and it requires a pigtail because the new sensor is round plug vs. the original which is square 2x2 setup with only 3 pins used. I just figure I would pop this out hoping anyone has dealt with this or seen it before.

3 wire pressure transducer.

I would like to verify with the gang here its a simple transducer on the high side pipe that needs replacing for 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins. No compressor and there is 100 psi of Freon in the system. But I'm getting P0533 code of A/C transducer hi volt.

1. Yes the port is completely open. 2. Yes there was 15+ PSI at the time of the video. 3. Fuel pressure is mechanical gauge (no sensor) so that is actual input pressure to the pump. The problem is you got to start the flow of fuel from the front of the pump and work your way all the way back to the rear of the pump. So now the fuel has to pass through the vane pump, then all the galleys to the rotor and then when the rotor is done then the excess fuel is sent towards the overflow valve.

Jump right on in and start posting up tips and tricks. What do you know that might help others?

Here is a graphical view of our weather...

Here is the vids...

Now add the Idaho smog...

Another good question is your pyrometer before the turbo or after? is it in the 1, 2, 3 or 4, 5, 6 bank?

There is something to note here dead pedal is when the pedal is dead no throttle just idle. But now limited pedal is a different story which I've found to be a ECM issue typically. I would start with check all grounds to the batteries and the AC noise voltage of the alternator and go from there. Is there any error codes? How about fuel pressure too?

Really common over on the RV forum I moderate on to see people getting Ford Eco-boost trucks (little 1/2 ton) and attempting to tow a 35-40 foot 5th wheel. Just about 90% of them come back telling tales of white knuckle trips. I'm not saying it can't be done... But what quality of towing are you going to have with a short wheel base? Depends on configurations, weights and total length of trailer. Kind of like Hex0rz trailer / truck combo. His trailer is a monster compared to his little 3/4 ton truck. Another one that comes to mind is Dripley with his monster 5th wheel. But I think he's set properly and travel long distances with his. Another example I can load my BigTex with firewood and be nearly the same weight of my RV and be able to tow it with my little 1/2 ton truck and not even think about it. But now take the length of my RV and same weight my little 1/2 ton couldn't even imagine the idea of towing now. (Tail wagging the Dog). Again its about configuration, weight, length of trailer.

Sound like your just flat out towing way too fast. I don't trust a EGT gauge right up to the last degree I always try for a 100-150*F under 1,200-1,250*F which me error to the side of safety. Also I would never tow over a grade in top gear I always back down hook up with 1:1 ratio (5th gear for 6 speed and 4th gear for 5 speeds) and tow at a much lower speed which reduces EGT's, Coolant temps, and increases the boost pressure. Sounds like its time to pull the engine out and rebuild...

Moved to Government & Politics... Some have voice there opinions about this topic...

Since about 2am last night it been nothing but "Rumble, Crash and Flash" a little rain and a light breeze. Like I said I've stocked up on both fuels gasoline and diesel both. These drums are air tight so fuel last MUCH MUCH longer being gasoline like to evaporate. As for the drums I picked them up from my local oil distributor for $20 dollars a piece. The drums had clean engine oil in them. As of this morning I turned off the sprinklers and turn back on the pelton wheel. Creek is getting really low. Gotta keep on a eye on my water flow up there now.

It's almost 9pm at night still 82*F in the house and it might make it down to 75-76*F by morning.

There was but I've never heard of a 4" diameter can being added to the system too. Pictures would solve this quickly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

As of 8/2 at home...

Could you get a picture of this part? I'm not sure what it would be?

From what I've heard about DTT Assassin fuel pumps they have issues with the regulators either sticking, springs wrong strength, debris in the regulator, etc. 2 Cycle Oil will not change fuel pressure if used properly at 128:1 ratio. Trust me its not the filter causing this pressure drop it solely the lift pump.

The old stock lift pump most likely...

You gotta check this out... http://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/articles/4658-video-deer-meets-porsche-at-full-speed#sthash.2tAodI70.mbqh25aq.dpbs http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=57f_1406269959

You might want to check out... http://nascar.about.com/od/tracks/tp/fastesttracks.htm

Same here I've bought 2 start contact kits from LarryB and still rolling.

Hex is a classic example of over shooting the axle ratings. So what happens is the quality of the towing experience goes down quickly. Trust me Hex has a huge RV! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6890-butt-pucker/

Truck alone... Then... Truck and RV... Weight out all your axles separate if possible. Like the scales down in Council, Idaho is a 3 pad scale. Then the scale in Grangeville is a single pad. So in Council I can pull up and get truck front and rear and trailer in one shot. Then in Grangeville I got to do each axle separate... Truck front axle, truck total, truck rear axle, trailer axle... What this will do is let you know if your balance in weights maybe need to relocate weight in the trailer, lighten, etc. Like myself I scale at least once a year and funny to watch my RV start at 7,300 pound when I bought it to now at 8,020 pounds. Gross weight rating is 8,500 pounds on the trailer. With the rear axle weight just subtract the truck alone from the truck & RV and you'll see your pin weight.