Mopar1973Man

Might read over it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation

It could be cavitation of the pump from the recirculation of the fuel. I don't have the bobbing problem at all very very stable pressure.

Reason I like the windows and door silicone is because at oil change time it cleans up really easy compared to other RTV or diff cover sealants. Never had a leak. I've seen a few sealants that have made a absolute mess of the bolt holes and now you got to run a tap in even hole clean the threads. Then have to run a wire brush over the bolts. Way too much work for diff oil change.

I typically just use the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press to change u-joints. Take my impact to press in and press out... Absolutely no problems here.

What I use I know lots of people think I'm nuts... http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-I-9-8-oz-Clear-Window-and-Door-Caulk-GE012A-24C/100091111

I typically just use silicone and hand tighten the bolts no measurements really.

Only way to really check u-joint right is remove the shaft. Also while the shaft is out double check the weights on it. You might find a old weight has flew off and you'll see the old spot weld.

That is very very rare for me to experience unless I'm driving like I stole it. Other than that I would say you have excessive clearance on the pickup tube. There should be about 1/16 to 1/8 of inch from the tank bottom to the tip of the pickup tube. Then the tube should be cut flat and not at a angle. Really common for old school draw straws and improper installment.

Usually the water hammer pulses eats the senders not the ULSD. Like I got a Cummins low pressure switch and water hammer ate it in about 2 years. Now with the 2nd low pressure switch I've got it behind the needle valve with the gauge and both live a very happy life now and no issues for many years. I would start by removing the isolator and hooking directly and see if there is a isolator issue. Also remember the water hammer pulses are being sent to the isolator so the diaphragm is vibrating internally so it does wear out as well from the pulses. This why I'm asking to direct connect and see if its a translation problem between the isolator and gauge.

That truck got wrecked at 1.3 million and he just sold it not to long ago.

Yeah... CR engines are sure fun once you get them deleted and tweaked. But parts are much more expensive. Trust me I thought about upgrading but I just can't get over the simple 24V design and it does work just fine after you get it tweaked in.

Like I said with a boss like him I can't go wrong...

Not that I've heard of even CajFlynn went through a VP44 about every 100-200k miles from what I remember.

No I see your kitchen is laid out way different than mine. The rest of the floor plan looks the same but your kitchen is different. Look like you got it all fixed up rather well and just about ready for the road.

You might want to thank every one on the site being it mostly their information that your learning but I'm just the ring master keeping it organized.

I've got a really cool Boss to work for down at the shop. Well today we finished our work load a bit early and decided to clean up the shop and our tools early. I caught Lindy combining two jugs of aluminum brightener. Then he spins around and says' "Pull your truck over by the power washer." I responded I don't have aluminum mags on that truck (1996) its got chrome wheels." So I do any ways. So he tells me to man the power washer and rinse after he scrubs then down lightly. I rinse the first wheel off and OMG! Talk about removing a bunch of brake dust and brighten that wheel up. He continues to do the wheels and then the bumpers and the grill. Talk about looking really nice and bright. Then he heads in the shop and get out the good car soap and washes the truck down for me. He like, "I can't have you driving around in that dirty truck!" But I will admit that aluminium brightener really does work. It's a acid so make sure to get the wheels rinse down quickly and not leave it sit on them too long. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MCR1458_0075100080

As I close my day out... Hi 79*F Current 71*F Lo 47*F

Starting the morning off at 47*F... Brrr...

This is why I always suggest the Stealth Plate over wire tapping.

How far below the tag voltage? Idle speed is based on Engine Coolant Temperature so the colder the engine the higher the idle will be. So if the sensor is off and showing higher temperature than normal then the idle speed is reduced. Also if the pop pressure is excessive high then the timing will be retarded on the injectors so then the idle speed is lower. Very rare a VP44 can't make idle. But it more common to see injector issues creating weird issues.

Here is from the site vendors... DieselAutoPower http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/rv275-oem-bosch.htm Vulcan Performance http://www.vulcanperformance.com/New-Bosch-RV-275-Injectors-p/rv275.htm

Sure... If you don't have account on the article database let me know I'll get you set up...

Check this out... MoparMom started picking the blackberries and they are huge this year. Size of my thumb at times.

I gotta get my firewood finished for the year. I need to make 2 more runs out to the forest. I'm watching the weather change now here a bit colder in the mornings now down to 47-52*F. I'm kind of figuring on a not as cold winter but a snowy winter.

Simple way of checking this and being sure there is no voltage loss in the wiring to and from the VP44. That is called doing a voltage drop test which happens to be in the article database already. The only difference is that you will not be checking while cranking but while the engine is running (wiring under load). Any wire with a voltage loss of 0.2 or more is a instant fail. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables Or another way is to ohm each wire from end to end and if the ohm is greater than 5 ohms its a instant fail.