Mopar1973Man

Bingo! Now realize Marine Deep Cycles are a cross breed between both so its got enough starting amps for engine but has some sort of amp/hours as well. True Deep cycles are design much differently than starting batteries.

Very Nice. I've wanted to post my pictures but I don't think they are that impressive.

Factory heated seat are typically controlled by the central timer under the dash. But I'm not sure how the system controls heat or what. So I'm not sure if the heater thermal controlled or what?

If space and weight wasn't a issue. http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/ind33-2v/ 2,405 Amp/hours @ 100 hours... 278 pounds per battery! Now that some power.

I work with both methods... (Series and Parallel) Four 6 volt batteries in series to give me the 24 volts the inverter requires to operate. Then parallel in another batch of four 6 volt batteries to increase the amp/hours. So each row gives me 410 amp hours for a total of 820 amp/hours. But took the 6 volt batteries because they have more amp/hours over the 12 volt batteries. Just like a RV but this system powers my actual house.

Because the other stuff are on a different fuse. Instrument cluster you can test. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/30-interior/47-instrument-cluster-testing

Sorry to say this become a low priority project for now. Maybe get back to it in the dead of winter or next spring.

Ohm measurement will be skewed from person to person. Why? Because it measuring PSIa (atmosphere) not PSIG (pressure). So just two people from two different elevations could possibly have two different numbers. Like sea level should be 14.3 PSIa but here at my place be roughly 13.0 PSIa. So its best to read it with a live data tool and compare it to a mechanical boost gauge. Closer you get to 0 PSIa is a vacuum.

140 Amp fuse must be blown if there is no power on the other side. It's only the alternator fuse.

My little box of goodies from Eric @ Vulcan Performance From the fuel tank looking forward. Yes. I kept the old return line from the AirDog to the filler neck. But replaced all pressure and suction lines. Between the VP44 and the filter housing. Overall of the engine currently.

Keep use post on the the results. I'm really interested in your results I'm sure there is a lot of people looking for fuel pump solutions for there truck but no one out there can trust AirDog any longer nor can afford FASS.

What's weird is this should of thrown a code on the truck might not of set the MIL light but still should of set a code. If not then this is a classic case of a sensor failing within specs and not tripping a code but feeding the ECM poor data.

Moved..

We are all human and error from time to time...

14 foot of Parker Super flex fuel hose is now here. Also ordered a 17 PSI AirDog spring. I'll know my fuel system will be up to snuff this weekend.

Link? Please...

Not bad. Just slice the hose peel the old push lock's out and then re-insert them in the new line. Maybe one hour to do.

Smaller voltage batteries typically have more amp/hour power. Where single 12V batteries typically have less... http://www.trojanbattery.com/markets/renewable-energy/ http://www.loveyourrv.com/trojan-battery/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkO7HJFvp5o

Currently for my truck vs. axle weights... 4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 PSI (Front tires currently set to 55 PSI) 3260 / 2 = 1630 / 3042 = 0.53 x 80 = 42.8 PSI (Rear tires currently set to 45 PSI) 4400 + 3260 = 7660 pound truck.

No, not locally. I would have to call down to Ontario, OR or Boise, ID for a good wrecking yard to see if I could fix such a animal. Most of the local yards have crushed everything and gone belly up and closed their doors. But on another note I'm not really wanting to do all the work of changing dashes to have the new dash to be on its last leg too. Be my luck... (Murphy's Law) I also keep mine indoors too except when at work. But every weekend I wash it all down and clean the interior too.

Well it came to bite me with age now. All my original AirDog hoses from way back in 2005 (I think) now started a leak on the line between the stock filter to the VP44. Most likely from being messed with during the gauge install. So the truck is parked for the time being and Eric is sending me a 14 foot roll of Parker Fuel line for my truck I'm going to replace all my fuel lines.

Well my next long term project is going to be the dash. Right now I'm trying to resolve my fuel system problem. (Another thread).

I don't miss my Cooper STT's at all. What you need to do now is weight the front and rear axle and readjust your tire pressures. Use my formula and get a baseline pressure for your weight. If you want more traction reduce the math by 5 PSI. Slightly softer tire typically does much better at traction but a slightly firmer tire typically does better for MPG's. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/354-tire-inflation-formula

Huh? Both my DiPricol mechanical fuel pressure gauge and my ISSPro Electric gauge doesn't even vary at all. Rock solid idle pressure. Only drops 1 PSI cruising the highway.

Interesting... http://www.raceme.eu Turn off the EGR system without removing ANY parts Read / Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes Removes the DPF system and ALL related sensors (nothing needs to go into the race exhaust or be plugged in) Allows removal of the entire EGR system including cooler without any trouble codes Late injection events (post inj) disabled for best economy Customizable injection timings for more economy and/or power Speedometer recalibration for use of non-stock size tires Tune engine with HP increases of up to 120HP in 3 stages 40/80/120hp Stage 0 has stock power without EGR/DPF and no options, simply stock for the careful user Free Internet updateable via our website with our newest software Cab and Chassis models are also backed Warning Use the tuner only after removing DPF System Warning