Mopar1973Man

ASD Relay just shuts down (not defuel) everything if anything goes way out of spec. Also ASD is only tied to the PCM has absolutely no connection to the ECM. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/wiring/2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg1.jpg But as for defueling if any ECM sensor rise or falls from normal now the ECM commands defueling.

Be very careful it very possible to get some really hot temps. (IAT and/or Coolant) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/135-winter-fronts-for-dodge-cummins-trucks

Does seem odd that you would have to buy the tools to do the valves...

This month I be putting my Winter Fronts in. I'm seeing 40*F in the mornings and barely breaking over 70*F during the day. So I run from October to April with my winter fronts. What you want to watch is the IAT temps as long as your hitting about 100-140*F your optimal for fuel mileage below that you lose roughly 1 MPG for even 10 degree drop.

As for trans additive the shop I work in the Boss (Lindy) uses Trans X... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-Trans-Fluid-Additive-30-oz-CRC-Trans-X/_/R-KW_402032_0006409557

Depending on condition and what is on the engine I would say the 4-5 is about right for a entire engine including VP44 and turbo.

Lets say with my setup right now I've got problems with my tires holding dry pavement in 2nd or 3rd gears. Depending on condition of the road, what I'm towing and how hard I get on the throttle it been known to spin the tires. So I would say yes... Take care of all the weakness like the trans and fuel system before you even think about upgrading fuel or HP.

Welcome to the site. Sorry about the profile limits that in place till 20 post and they are automatically lifted. This is makes unfavorable for spammers. If you work on getting economy and efficiency up the horse power will come with it. Like myself I'm just running little +50 HP injectors and a Edge Comp. Still running stock 3" because there is absolutely no need for 4" since all economy drive should be done at 5 PSI or less so there is no back pressure anyways. But my current high mark. Cmg (Current MPG for the Day).

Absolutely right. The MAP sensor is reporting the boots pressure to the ECM and sees pressures above 20 PSI and it starts cutting back fuel to keep from exceeding boost limits. So a boost fooler (minimum) or a actual performance module like Edge or similar would do much better because now you can calculate fuel tables above the ECM knowledge. This is why the wire tap is required. Other modules that don't tap the wire are going to be limited to 60-65 HP period.

Works better attached to a engine and pumping fuel.

Correct. Normal alternator should be roughly 0.01 to 0.02 AC Volts. AC noise tend to burn up transistors and diodes that where designed for DC power. This creates excessive heat and things start to fail and burn up. Also PCM and ECM can fail from the same problem. Another version...

Probably even easier that the pump isn't on the truck anymore. (The last that I knew).

Ummm... Yes, that was what I was figuring on is that most VP44 owner won't have a clue where a P7100 idle screw is at. As for the VP44 it doesn't have a idle screw at all. Even the stop screw on the APPS sensor is NOT a idle screw. The idle is completely ECM controlled as long as the APPS sensor is providing the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) for idle then the APPS sensor is ignored completely and the ECM controls idle on it own by software. VP44 injection pump is completely fly by wire there is no throttle attachment to the pump like a P7100 injection pump.

Not pushing oil other the breather either. Never drips nor is there oil splatter under the truck. Nothing even close to this...

Nevermind... AT 3am I'm pretty blurry eyed...

Don't even drip in my shop. No. Because the tube is near engine heat for most of its travels.

Hold on a sec. Pin weight of 1,100 pounds which is 20% of the 5,500 trailer weight. My rear axle is only around 2,860 to 3,200 with GAWR of 6,084# so... even using my high number 3,200 + 1,100 = 4,300 pounds... Hua? Nowhere near axle weight rating. Just adding the front and rear GAWR is 5200 + 6084 = 11,284... Here comes back the 11,000 number you mentioned... Which now re-run the tow check its 5th wheel 12,300 and conv. trailer is 12,500 again.

Ok. Rephrase the comment not excessive blow by. It doesn't blow the cap off nor dance in the hole. I would rather go by compression test than blow by. I've laid under the truck with it idling and it just lightly puffing a light vapor out. Nothing like the CR engines I've seen so far. Unscrew the cap and POP watch the cap go flying... As for information I'm going to talk to Lindy tomorrow at work and see what he's got to say. I really doubt rings and pistons. Runs way too good and no noises. MPG are still up to spec just oil usage is up.

Exactly... No catch bottle on mine.

Then I'd better sell my Cummins and buy a Ford...

GVWR of the trailer not the truck. I'm rated to tow 13,400# worth of trailer. If I input your numbers then everything is way off. Max 5th Wheel Towing - 6,500# (Right!) Max Conventional Towing -10,400# Still way low from book.

Same here glued all fitting and used a threaded down pipe.

Well if your worried about injectors then just pull them and have them pop tested to verify there condition. Like myself I'm getting some oil smoke now most likely from bad valve seals. But for hard starts you might have air in the fuel lines or weak compression. More here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/40-basic-diagnostics

I'm using air brake line for my gauge its rated to a burst strength of 600-800 PSI. Copper is risky because 9 times out of 10 the vibration will crack the tubing. Cheap oil pressure tubing (nylon) typically fails from heat and becomes brittle. As for isolators they tend to always skew fuel pressure readings.

Personally I would run the HX35 over the HY35. Cooler EGT's and better flow of exhaust.