Mopar1973Man

Well at 55-65 MPH it showing 200*F some days it normal other days its half. Connections are all tight. Thermocouple is still in one piece. But the gauges are 10 years old now and time to upgrade. I've repair the boost gauge twice. I've had to carefully remove the front glass and re-tighten 2 screws holding the face on. Yes. these gauges have served me well for 10 years...

Possible air leak? Thinking out loud...

Bummer... Email from UPS... Scheduled for... Friday, 10/10/2014

Bingo. Eric was advising me to relocate the fuel pressure sensor away from the engine but I wanted a nice bracket for bottom sensors. This was a solution for more than just EV2's but all electric gauges that get ground from the body. So after talking to him about it Eric produced the beta bracket and we'll see how it does. I didn't want to zip tie the sensor to the cowl (lame...).

According to UPS its suppose to be here today. As for the beta test bracket.

Dang that went fast... Price was right...

Dang it... They left Monday morning. Oh well. I'll order the cable later on this winter. As for a surprise I've got a custom bracket coming for both my boost sensor and my fuel pressure sender. It's one of a kind and might be a new part supplied by Eric at Vulcan Performance. Cure all the poor ground issues and remote mounting of the senders. More to come...

I've used expanding foam and hardware mesh on my RV and no longer having a mouse problem at all. No traps, no ultrasonics, no poison bait, nothing!

Tell more... Warning lights?

Partially. The other part is physical warm air getting to the engine. Might not be as warm but still warmer than minus what ever. All my problem are just common driving here in Idaho no towing. I always remove the covers from the grill if towing because now over heat does occur with both IAT and ECT. Remember climbing grade are not done at 65-70 MPH they are done at much slower speeds with winter conditions so pyrometer heat can be present and climb quite high on some grade once again no towing. (1,000 to 1,100*F)

It's a done deal... The order is placed and they are on the way from Vulcan Performance. On top of that I think I might of created another product with Eric to resolve the fuel pressure sender and boost sender placement so they are not on the block but on a rigid mounting bracket and good good plane. So more to come about that...

Well this is kind of the reason I'm planing on doing the electric gauges and see if I can find way to resolving some of these weird issues. I'll always have my old school mechanical gauge as well but let's see what I can figure out for the electric gauge. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9042-gauge-time/

Every one looks at the cool factor but never consider the effect of changing just the front axle stance just a mere 2" is a big deal. It is!!! Now what does it do to the geometry of the rest of the front axle? How about longevity? If your really wanting to still do this I highly suggest you go to a high quality 4x4 shop and have it done correctly. This includes new shocks, new adjustable track bar, and full alignment by someone that does more that stock values which will not work any longer.

You might still catch up with him and find out exactly what was done and what worked and what didn't before you attempt to guess your way through the stalling problem. Like some people end up spending big money and not resolving anything.

My leveling kit is much much cheaper, easier, and much more enjoyable. I just saved a bunch of money leveling my way...

The biggest problem you'll have is the change in geometry of the front end and having to switch over to a adjustable front track bar. I just done one on a Ford Powerstroke and it was a serious PITA to do. After the shims went in nothing lined up properly. So a adjustable track bar has to be used and also would be advisable to have the front end aligned again too by a shop that knows how to work with custom suspensions.

For me its not exactly the warm up time its the IAT temperature I'm after. I tend to aim for 100-140*F as much as possible. Since I drive efficiently for the most part the warm up time is always extended. Takes about 8-10 miles from cold to full 190*F every time regardless of the grill covered or not. But with the grill covered I do see more of 195-197*F coolant temps in the winter vs. 185-188*F without in minus weather. Also on the IAT I see roughly a 10-20*F gain vs without the cover.

Talk to Pepsi71Ocean you'll find out what he went through to resolve the stalling issues.

I might just do the electronic gauges just to say I've master both mechanical and electronic and have solutions for both. More I kept thinking about it more I'm considering the electronic EV2's. I'm most likely going to do... Black background Orange Needles Boost 0-60 PSI Fuel Pressure 0-30 PSI Pyrometer (uncolored) 0-1600*F

From the lows to the highs around me. Lewiston Idaho ............... 750 Riggins Idaho .............. 1,800 Home .......................... 2,800 New Meadows ............ 3,800 McCall Idaho ............... 5,000 Burgdorf Idaho ............ 6,100 Heavens Gate ............. 8,400

From what I understand all EV2's are electronic no mechanicals. So I would have to back down to EV's for mechanicals. Eric was telling me about the differences in the fuel pressure senders. The old school what a diaphragm style and now the new style is solid state without a diaphragm to rupture and leak from water hammer. (Positive point) I'm going to call and talk to Eric more on Monday and pick his brain more.

But also the pressure at which it pops will dictate the quality of atomization of the injectors too.

I know the feeling. I just thought I was doing so good then all the little things started to go wrong with my truck. Just time to give them some TLC and make them happy once again.

Here is what it looks like...

Well now Colorado isn't even close to flat just as lumpy and Idaho is. But someone in Midwest could easily run a full cover like that. But after a few close calls here I've given up on the full cover idea. I know the Geno's allows for openings to added for ventilation or adjust how much. So we'll see how you fair on this. Matter of fact I'll be putting mine on tomorrow morning darn cold here in the mornings at 32-35*F and taking several miles to even get heat.