Mopar1973Man

Up here in my neighborhood...

I still say EGT's gauge is a safe bet to have. No UG doesn't support anything that doesn't already exist on the truck. So if the pyrometer isn't there and readable by the ECM then the UG isn't going to see it. UG/SG can only see what the engine sees including the errors created by poor wiring and bad sensors. Even on my fully stock 2002 I've seen 1,400*F completely stock (absolutely no mods) climbing a 6-7% grade towing a flatbed trailer with a Chevy truck on the back. No boost leaks either. Typically this is the cause of most exhaust manifold crack problem is excessive exhaust temps cause from a driver without a EGT gauge. Yes this does happen on stock trucks too. Boost is seen because the MAP sensor is already supplied with the engine. But be warned MAP/Boost reading typically are not accurate on the upper end of the scale above about 20-25 PSI. Some have seen where the SG/UG will vary from a mechanical gauge on the upper scale. I personally suggest full mechanical gauge to be the safest choice. UG/SG is OK for daily driver for boost gauge. But as for EGT's the only solution is a separate gauge. I do suggest a EGT's gauge if you plan on towing or hauling heavy at all. You'll be surprised what a true stock engine can produce for EGT's. (Yeah I know this is 3rd Gen but I'm like Dorkweed rather error toward the side of safety!)

You'll be surprised what these trucks will pack if you allow them to work at slower rates. I'm sure you did just fine being slow and taking your time...

Heck no... I use propane heated water in the RV. In the stick and bricks I use electric to heat my water.

That's where I get hung up. Here is Russ where he not putting any stress on the frame horns and has a requirement for a gear box brace. Here I am back in the back country going from lock to lock turning around on narrow dirt roads, tight switch backs, ruts you name and don't need gear box brace. So can someone explain the requirements for needing a gear box brace because I'm missing something here. I could understand if you leveraging again the front tire is so excess that you flexing the frame horns. Russ is a pavement queen for the most part. The only thing I can come up with Russ issues would be the excessive amount of rust might of weaken the frame or other pivots. Like his rear axle issue earlier where it jumped the perch.

RV came with two 12V batteries and that's it. No other means of charging. So once you unhooked from the truck there was only battery power. So if you want to stay longer than 1 night you would have to hook up the trailer plug and idle the truck, or bring a generator, or solar. Since both a generator or the truck use fuel and make noise solar is silent. As for the trailer again it had no 120V power on board so you left with a generator or a inverter. Again generator requires fuel and makes noise where a inverter is silent. You got to think about the fuel issue and the noise issue. Then look at the solar/inverter as a solution to both. As for the panels yes I got to fold the legs up and put them in the RV before we go. (thieft issue).

I tend to look at it a different way. Since I've lighten up my tires (235/85 R16) and lighten up the wheels (16x7.5 to 16x7 Aluminum) I've never had any stress on the front steering components. Even with all my offroad use, heavy hauling of firewood, and rough roads (washboarded & potholes) absolutely no steering issues. Gearbox is still tight.

Lots of people will most likely jump for synthetic lubes. Me personally I tend to hop for the petroleum GL-5 80w-90 (light duty) 85w-140 (heavy duty). When people clear 1 million miles without axle failures that run truck for hotshotting I would say it a good selection.

Well yesterday we had our delivery guy Dennis call up with a complete failure. Van died no start and no power. So Stephanie (Boss Lady) calls the local towing service and had him towed to the shop. Sure enough the battery was dead. So I pulled the Cummins up and set the 6 cylinder high idle and charge the battery. Got it fired up and brought it up to the side of the building where I work. We figured the alternator was dead. It just a smaller version of the ND alternators on the Dodge Ram's. So today alternator shows up I get it installed and it was charging good at 14.6 VDC. Sent the Dennis on his way. Less than hour goes by he calls again the CHECK ENGINE light is on. Crap! Comes back under battery power and sure enough its not charging and tossing a 41 flash code (Field current to high or too low). So now we figure the regulator is dead in the PCM. Guess what? No longer manufactured! The parts guy told us to hit a wrecking yard. Great! I ask Lindy do you have a old school Dodge regulator? Sure he said pulls it off the shelf. I jump on the laptop pull up my article on the site for the voltage regulator mod. I gave him the part number for the plug. So Lindy gets it order up. Dennis takes off with Lindy's truck and picks up the part (Pigtail). In the meantime I pull the van in the shop and pull the alternator found the positive field lead (using a test light). Took the negative field terminal folded it back so it no longer used. The grabbed 2 lengths of wire purple and green. Purple went to the positive terminal and the green went to the now empty terminal. Remounted the alternator. Dennis came along with the pigtail trimmed the leads back crimped the two leads purple going to the center/upper post and the green going to the right post. Plug it all in. Fired it up charging a nice 13.6 to 13.7V on the voltage regulator mod. Note: Check your field polarity with the field lead disconnected because if wired to the alternator it will show positive on both terminal. It's a must to test open lead first! So this mod is very generic and will work with any 2 wire field lead alternators without a issue.

If your doing a trans temp gauge... Buy 2 sensors, 2 bungs and a toggle switch then you can put a sensor in the rear diff and the transmission and cover both items on one gauge.

Because the fact I had the inverter as a stand alone and it was a PITA to run extension cors for the TV , A/D converter, DVD player, Laptop etc. Solar panels are directly tied to the RV batteries already. Because most of the time I'm boondocking with the RV. Then other problem is bringing a 2kw genny to do the work is a another way but I like the silence. So now if I stop somewhere with the RV I flip two switch inverter power on and the transfer switch to intverter I've now got 120 VAC power to charge a cell phone, etc. No genny to drag out, plug in, no fuel cans to drag around, no worries of my genny being stolen in the night. Diesel you gotta remember I already live the solar life. So I know how to live on only 4kw worth for power without going over board. (120 VAC, 33 Amps equals 4kw)

You can use 6th gear but I wouldn't suggest climbing grade with it. Make sure you don't lug in a high gear it does put a lot of stress on bearings and such. 6 Speed in 6th Gear is 0.73:1 ratio 5 speed in 5th gear is 0.75:1 ratio 6 Speed in 5th Gear is 1:1 ratio 5 speed in 4th gear is 1:1 ratio Not much difference...

Item 2 - 2 Cycle oil. 128:1 ratio. Or 1 ounce of oil for every 1 gallon of fuel. Item 3 - Check the AC noise at the BATT terminal on the alternator and the passenger battery ground or alternator ground (case). No need for change of RPM's idle should show it.

There was another post some where... I just read it. But you might consider replacing the speed sensor. (Another unusual solution)

Your home made one I would go for being the fabric is thick enough to withstand rubbing and other issues. I know the Outerwears I was given didn't last more than a few months and had holes the size of quarters and larger.

Good to hear you'll be back to travelling again...

LOL... I just pull the same stunt yesterday. I hitched up the BigTex 70TV to the little Honda Rancher ATV and proceeded to toss firewood into the trailer with MoparMom. We filled that trailer mounded as as as possible. Then using the little ATV rolled the trailer to the wood shed and stacked the entire 1.75 cords of split firewood. I know I know if you don't have pictures it didn't happen... Next load I'll get a picture of it.

It really does make a difference. I would consider going out first and weighting the truck and trailer and then get the proper bars for said weight. You can figure tongue weight from truck alone (rear axle weight) and truck and trailer (truck rear axle weight) just subtract the two and you should get the tongue weight.

Just something to consider about you master cutoff switch. I've seen plenty of people mount the battery cutoff switch on the battery box. I tend to wonder about how long the switch last with battery acid vapor or water corrosion of the cutoff switch. Kind of like you little trailer your working on Russ you don't want to have exposed wiring to the road elements or battery acid.

Ok... From what I've been playing with I've found there is a roughly 2 MPG gain with two cycle oil vs. without two cycle oil (128:1 ratio). Running colder IAT's on a 24V tend to start losing roughly 1 MPG for every -10*F from 100 IAT temperature. I typically see better MPG numbers in the hot afternoon temps at 100-105*F than in the morning at 50-55*F. Yes. I've got the best of both world cold morning starts and baking heat afternoons. Another odd one that I found about two cycle oil, without two cycle oil in the fuel it will smoke more than with two cycle oil where it barely even smokes. Just tidbits from my daily drive back and forth to work and odd jobs...

It's a direct bolt on item. But still have a hard time seeing why a stock truck would even need one. But if you installed oversized tires and do a lot of offroad use I would see a need for it rather quickly. But as for me I'm still running my 235's and no issues with my steering box or steering looseness. Go figure?

The kit I've got is the Cummins vacuum pump rebuild kit and its only $13 bucks. Now to get time...

All I can say... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/227-p1688-internal-fuel-injection-pump-failure DTC P1688: INTERNAL FUEL INJECTION PUMP FAILURE Monitor & Set Conditions Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) is monitored with ignition on engine off, and with engine running. DTC may set if FPCM, PCM memory, programming or hardware error is detected. Possible Causes Good Trip Counter Equals Zero Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) Testing 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, check for DTCs. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1688 is displayed and not equal to zero, go to next step. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1688 is displayed and equal to zero, replace FPCM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 2. Ensure ignition is on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for DTCs and record FREEZE FRAME data. Try to duplicate conditions recorded in FREEZE FRAME data. Using scan tool, check for DTCs. If DTC P1688 returns, replace fuel injection pump. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If DTC P1688 does not return, test is complete.

I'm sorry I can't even give you advise on this topic at all. I have no knowledge with HE351VE nor the 3rd or 4th gen exhaust manifolds. I know there are people that do them... Hopefully there is someone that can help you.

The only time I would consider 10w-30 would be in the winter time. Trying to find diesel CI-4 or CJ-4 oils locally in other than 15w-40 is nearly impossible.