Mopar1973Man

GVWR of the trailer not the truck. I'm rated to tow 13,400# worth of trailer. If I input your numbers then everything is way off. Max 5th Wheel Towing - 6,500# (Right!) Max Conventional Towing -10,400# Still way low from book.

Same here glued all fitting and used a threaded down pipe.

Well if your worried about injectors then just pull them and have them pop tested to verify there condition. Like myself I'm getting some oil smoke now most likely from bad valve seals. But for hard starts you might have air in the fuel lines or weak compression. More here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/40-basic-diagnostics

I'm using air brake line for my gauge its rated to a burst strength of 600-800 PSI. Copper is risky because 9 times out of 10 the vibration will crack the tubing. Cheap oil pressure tubing (nylon) typically fails from heat and becomes brittle. As for isolators they tend to always skew fuel pressure readings.

Personally I would run the HX35 over the HY35. Cooler EGT's and better flow of exhaust.

Just think of it 78.09% of compressed air is N2 Nitrogen already. The other 20.95% is O2 oxygen. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth

The other truck sounds like a cab and chassis. They typically have a solid axle with king pins. Now the standard Dodge front end should be control arms and coil springs.

Pretty darn close here...

Yea... Sorry to say all the fiddling I've done with my fuel system I can say it's a one way trip. There is no pulling that fitting out again you'll have to cut thee line and re-press the fitting back in. Might bee time to talk to Eric over at Vulcan Performance and getting another length of hose before your start.

It's on the the very back of of the P7100 injection pump. Look at the back there and see the bolt and jam nut.

Just check the compressor wheel standard up/down movement but no rub. Then no movement in/out. I though about pulling the turbo and checking the manifold for oil. Right now I'm looking for possible ideas and start gather up stuff to handle the project.

Here is another good tool.... http://rvtowcheck.com/

Even Towhungerford said the same thing if the seal kit doesn't fix it up then the valve guides would need to be replaced. (Head Job).

I need to see load pressure. Free revving is typically very very low volume requirement. (0.1 GPH maybe) But under full load powering down the highway the flow rate is way different. (~20 GPH) This why you should always have a pressure gauge in the cab.

Is this highway RPM or neutral RPM? Typo? Do a AC noise voltage check on the alternator.

This oil change is up to 2 quarts of oil in like 3-4k miles. So its time to look and see where its going.

Ok. If you want to test stand the whole thing if you have a friend with a like model truck you should be able to trade ECM's and see if the problem trades. Another thing to look at is... Does the "Wait To Start" light come right on or does it delay to come on? This is sign of bad memory in the ECM and having booting issues.

The only reliable source for ECM that I know of is the Dodge Dealer. Re-manufacture shops are a bit risky if you decide to try it. Make sure to get the warranty in writing and be sure you ready for hit and miss. Some have had good luck and many other have a brick or door stop that comes back in the mail.

Likeoldfords, I gather you had the same problem occur?

Great minds think alike...

Yes. You just run the piston up to TDC and then compress the springs. The valves will rest on the top of the piston. So now just change your valve seals.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/193-p0522-oil-pressure-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/148-p0117-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/216-p1475-auxiliary-5-volt-output-too-high http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/162-p0217-engine-overheat-condition http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/213-p1295-apps-sensor-supply-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low Looks like the ECM is gone. I would have the alternator AC noise tested to see if there is excessive AC voltage beating the rest of the electronics as well before replacing the ECM.

Once again its time for new seat covers. While I was last down in Emmett, ID I stop in Autozone and pickup a new set of seat covers. So far my factory seats are doing fair to OK. The driver seat is finally getting a tear on the outer edge from hauling my tail across it. The lower back of the seat is getting a bit thread bare. Passenger side is still good. But after getting the seat covers on and trimmed in looks good. Kind reminds me of a Ford design.

I had to do the same thing on a customers rig as well. It was idling a bit low. Boy talk about butter fingers... I must of dropped that 10mm wrench a dozen times before getting done with the project. But I got it idling about 750-800 roughly and customer was tickled. I can tell you that you can barely see the top of the bolt from working on top.

I gave Towhungerford a call and asked him about it. He's agreeing with my it sound like valve seal starting to go south on me. So who do I go to for a good quality valve seal set? Also I know I got to get the tool to do it. http://www.torkteknology.com/products/Cummins-24V-5.9-%26-6.7-Valve-Spring-Compressor-PN-CVSC010.html