Mopar1973Man

Thinking about it again We could just add to the existing contact page full of vendors and dealers. Maybe make a page for repair shops as well and add more on the article database this way there isn't four tons of pages of personal comments, flaming, etc. But I don't see a rating system for the contact listing.

Sound like a great idea. But on the forum it would be rather difficult to make it searchable and fine rating you want. More or less could use the thread rating for each one. As for the bashing I had a problem years ago about a trans company that was getting bashed here by a member. The big problem is the URL for the page bashing this company show up BEFORE the company link on Yahoo. No kidding. So any one doing a search for this company found my link to the bashing page before the actual company page. So I got a phone call from the owner asking to remove the search enter which I did it took about 7-9 days for Yahoo.com to clear that URL from the search engine. As for the original post I has to edit the company name so it wouldn't be picked back up.

Riggins, ID is a desert area of Idaho only 1,800 feet of elevation typical summer temps of 100-115*F and winter temps as low as 0*F I've seen. Approximately 12-13 miles to work from home. As for the Willys its done! Replace the head gasket, a little bit of tune work and it spins over like a top. Idles really smooth and travels along the high at a nice 55-60 MPH at 3,300 RPM's.

No problems here do all my mountain driving in 4th never need 3rd. All my flat travel in 5th gear.

Well firewood I might of been pushing a few time rather heavy. As for the RV I'm right at my GVWR but still below my axles rates. Still below my trailer rated specs, Still below my combine weight. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs About twice a year I check my weights. I don't want to be like all the people I get called out to fix RV springs, or lost a wheel because snapped all the studs off.

Just remember the final ratio isn't any different. 6 speed - 0.73:1 (6th gear) 5 speed - 0.75:1 (5th gear) 6 Speed - 1:1 (5th Gear) 5 Speed - 1:1 (4th Gear)

I do that once a month I top off with distilled water and then do a equalize charge to the batteries to stir the distilled water into the batteries.

Like I learned from the RV275's I got from CajFlynn. Just because they all popped about 290-295 bar (little low) still good to go. By the next year they had dropped off to 240 bar on the lowest injector. When they where inspection in Lewiston, ID there was shims that where wore down, pintles where seated deeper in the nozzle from wear. So now between the shim wear and the nozzle wear will give that slack for change in pop pressure. Now even with new nozzles if the shims are worn your still going to be off in pressure. So more or less you got a fresh tip but the rest of it worn and might not match perfectly (305-310 bar).

From small changes is length of the pintle needle and/or seat depth. Maybe the owners shims are already worn too. That why there is different sized shims for tuning the pop pressure so that all injectors are evenly match in pressures. It's always being suggest in pop testing all injectors after nozzle install.

Sensors... If its front sensor you must replace both as a matched set. Rear sensor the speedometer will act weird or not work at all. G101 - Left Fender Side Shield

Once your done changing nozzles now you got to send all six injectors out and and have them pop tested. You can't just change nozzles without having them re-pop tested. Usually make nozzle sets higher in price once you figure in pop testing and tuning. Locally its $15 a injector to be tuned.

CajFlynn is on Facebook quite regular. Still hauling boats... https://www.facebook.com/FlynnMarineTransport

Here is the spec book for it... Not much difference between 2500 and the 3500 series for load capacities...

Well I can't answer how to get at it really my AirDog is not on the frame. But yes it's in the return line just take the fitting out of the pump and the spring and ball are just inside the housing of the pump. Mine is the forward fitting on the rail side. I typically use a 3/4" wrench remove the JIC elbow and then a deep well socket remove the fitting.

Too good of a article to loose. Pinned to the top! Thanks for the wonderful write up I'll soon have you place it over in the article database.

Out here anti-seize is your friend. I use anti-seize on just about all hardware under a truck at work and at home. As for removal I would do like MoparTech said drill the head out till they let go. I'm pretty sure most hardware stores have those kinds of screws/bolts.

Take your spring and slightly egg shape the last coil the ball is going to sit on. Then the very tip say 1/8 of the bend in a 90* angle inwards to the coil so the ball can't wedge down into the coils.

I tend to agree with AH64ID about the gearing. It would really wake up any rig changing from 3.55 to 4.10 gears in the axle(s). Now ol' CajFlynn has been using 3.73 gears for towing and enjoyed them for the life of his 2001 Dodge till it finally gave it last breathe at 1.3 million. (Vehicle accident)

Remove the slave cylinder before installing the transmission again. This will allow for the fork to stay back to the housing while installing the input shaft. As for your pictures there is a lot of oil around the clutch.

That's a big slice of pie right there. Dodge Cummins will around for a long time kind of like the 60's and 70's muscle cars. I think this is the playground our trucks are now heading towards and why the prices are still high. Heck all the trucks you see now are barely 150-250k miles on the clock anyone that knows a 1st or 2nd Gen is barely getting started in life. The big problem is trying to find a truck body and interior that isn't ate to hell and back.

I can tell you Hex0rz has a huge 5th wheel. Thing is most people tend to forget about axle weight and vehicle design weight. Like Hex0rz is most likely over his rear axle weight limit (can't remember). Then most all Dodge Truck of the 2nd Gen realm are designed for about 13,400 pounds of trailer even the 1 ton's are the same weight.

Stock lift pump ground is behind the starter bolted to the block. The Raptor ground can be tied to the battery but I typically use a body ground instead.

I've got to lube mine in the future when I get time to work on it...

I'm a 31' travel trailer I'm scaled at 8,020 pounds fully loaded with water and all. GVW 8,500# http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs

Time to consider doing all the crossover tube o-rings and doubles checking all the sealing washer on the return lines at VP44 and return rail at the rear of the head. Then there is 3 square cut o-rings on the return tee that might be leaking.