Mopar1973Man

Really... Seriously... What are people thinking or they not thinking?

I would seal the old wire spot with silicone or liquid electric tape.

Not bad. Now since I've got my new RV parking spot under the blue spruce tree I've got it plugged in 24/7 and no issues for 3 years. Barely got to add 8 ounces of distilled water for 2 batteries. I know lead acid won't hold that long without degrading a bit over time.

@MoparDave68 so do you have a functional brake controller? Most states have a laws stating that the trailer must have functional trailer brakes after X amount of pounds.

General happens after two long days of cutting firewood and your exhausted and trying to figure out why... Thanks!

I'm going to suggest to continue using propane. Cheapest way to go. A 30# bottle will run months for just a RV fridge.

Turn the key on and engine not running check the terminal for +12 volts. If there is 12V signal then place your ring terminal on snug the jamb nut while holding the allen screw. Hook your Edge up to the tap. You good to go.

Like in my truck its gotten to the point now that friend place things on the arm rest (center console) and "know" they won't move.

That's what I thought. (Thanks for verifying! ) Injectors remained closed and not firing a drop. But its blue smoke like cold cylinder temps would. As for the turbo still wonder how that could be happening too. If the drive pressure is spiked out during the downhill run and the oil pressure should nearly match pressure (unknown no mechanical). Think I'm just over thinking the whole thing... No issues with oil loss lately still full. No loss in MPG's either still good and strong.

with AH64ID... 1. Charge up the batteries 2. Check water level in batteries 3. Load test batteries 4. Verify all your wiring connections are good and clean 5. Look for heavy draw

Exactly... I did change injectors. About a year ago. I found my post back in April of 2013 install the +50HP injectors. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6732-back-to-stock-injectors-for-a-short-time/

No. That was calculating backwards for the heater of the fridge in DC mode. Using the wattage of the 120V side then calculating the 12V amp draw. No measurement yet for my furnace.

Guilty as charged. I used to be that way have a big rig in front of me and blow around them. Now I tend to just hang back with my 55-60 MPH cruise most times I end up travelling with a semi-truck up the canyon. I've got no problem with that now. When I see my MPG jump up I tend to enjoy the bonus of cruising slower and getting the MPG boost. Easier on brakes, less panic stops, less close calls,etc.

Corrected my post above for DC operation not 12V to keep other from getting confused. But even my Norcold with 2 standard lead acid batteries, 45w (3 Amp charge) solar panel and 1,200w inverter (100 amp draw @ 1,200w) sit around for 2 days watching TV and drinking beer no problems with batteries running dead. It's all about being aware of the loads. I do think your attempting DC operation and ate the batteries in a short order. My Norcold is only a AC or LP operation no DC function. Still in all it best to operate in LP mode, propane is cheap and last a very very long time compared to DC operation eating the batteries fast or putting load on the tow vehicle alternator. AC only works if hooked to city power or genny. Well in AH64ID case his inverter but still even then the load is place back on the tow vehicle. The biggest propane eater is the furnace, next is water heater, then fridge.

They do it on curves, blind hills, etc. They don't care just get out of their way. During the winter time the highway here gets quiet and very few accidents occur. But now get tourist from other states and they drive like they are still in Texas with 80-85 MPH speed limits. If you going 2 MPH slower they pass you. I've actually had people pass me in a fire truck before truck running against the governor and went around me with lights on even. (Most of our trucks govern out at 60-65 MPH).

Slide the tool into the lock. The while hold pressure against the tool twist lightly back and forth of the pipe to free the o-ring. Now it should come off. Typically that's how I free a connector the rocking back and forth will seem to get some oil on the o-rings and get it to slide off for you.

Dare to be different...

Still in all 2 Amp draw should last a long time vs. 200 Amp hours of batteries. At least 4 days calculated to fully dead. What killed your batteries is the main heater which draw lot lot more amperage. Roughly speaking the main heater on 12V is 40 Amp draw which would deplete the batteries to full dead in about 5 hours. But since its only allowed to 10.5 volts the time is even shorter. Like I said charge the batteries back up and switch to LP I'm sure it will work just fine even with the heater.

Ok... DC operation is only advised if you hooked to your truck and travelling. LP mode should be used if boondocking. AC mode should be used if hooked to city power. All I can say is start over with a fully charged battery and make sure your using the proper mode. I typically leave mine locked on LP mode. On a fully charged batteries it will go over 2 weeks without recharging just the fridge alone.

Summer is here... Please people slow down. I'm listening to the fire radio yesterday while cutting firewood. Riggins EMS was paged out to a roll over vehicle accident. Seem like everyone is in a hurry and passing with on coming traffic which now becomes a game of chicken and loser ends up in the ditch rolled over. I was lucky a few days ago as well coming home driving my typical ol' slow self I'm glad I was because the same thing happen to me I had a semi-truck passing in my lane force me off the shoulder of the road. Please people be safe and slow down there is nothing in the world that require high speed.

So how about 1,821 feet at Riggins, ID? Or even lower yet at 1,581 feet at Whitebird. Even my place is barely 2,800 feet. Elevation this is low. MPG fooler is just setting the IAT to 143*F so even turning it off I'm seeing true number but on warm days I can float as high as 120-130*F when I was noticing the smoke. But now with colder temps I'm down to 80-90*F IAT's. Still fooler on or off the smoke level still high. Actually a little secret if you turn over to 6 Cylinder mode its a smoke switch. Dropping the IAT colder and ECT colder produces a healthy cloud. (Just letting you all know I've played and looking for other causes). This is not it. As for another odd thing noticed yesterday hauling back with firewood. I've got 8 miles of full time exhaust brake usage and about another 6 of part time exhaust brake usage from my cutting hole to the highway. By the time I get to the steep part of the grade and the EGT's are really low 200 or so. I start to notice a haze of blue smoke only when the exhaust brake is used. Then once I hit the highway I see one poof of blue and then it turns black and gone never to seen again. This has me thinking injectors for some reason.

I went into Harbor Freight and picked up the mini's and the standard blade fuses. Each is like 60 piece assortment of all common fuses for $9 buck I think. Still carry the factory tire jack works really good. Used it many time including trying to get unstuck from a mud hole. Fan belt I left at home on the shelf. That part of the inspection process and dealt with accordingly. The only thing part wise I carry is the fuel filter for the sole reason you never know if it might just get you some time bad fuel or gelling issues in the winter. But all these years I've never had to use it. Brand new fleetguard filter 3 micron for the AirDog. I look at from a different light. If the truck going to fail me it most likely going to fail with part required that are not carried. So I look at the safety factor more so. So OK the truck died, no cellphone signal, no radio signal, etc. Your on your own walking. Grab the SAR's bag typically have my pistol on me. If MoparMom is with me then grab the other MRE and water and get walking. If I'm on the highway I can most likely flag down help. But if I'm off in the backwoods time to do the heel-toe express.

Trailer tires aren't inflated to max either. Load Range C's with max pressure of 50 PSI but only 40 PSI in the tires. I figure I'm right close to 7k total trailer weight. Roughly figuring 2 cords (2,200 pounds per cord) plus 1,800 pounds dry trailer weight. Right at 6,200 pounds. I'm not driving it to Grangeville or Council to scale it...

Even with the colder weather I'm still seeing smoke on 5x3 and 5x2 is a bit cleaner but not always. I'm starting to wonder if something about the fuel has changed.