Mopar1973Man

Well back at it again. Buddy down the road called me this morning and wanted to haul firewood. I was considering just buying a few cords but being the waiting list is too long. I'll just hop out and get a load. So hook up with him this morning...

For AirDog or FASS with 3 lines. The return line is the remaining fuel flow back to the tank so if your injecting 2.5 GPH the other 147.5 is flow back on the return lines (injection pump and fuel pump). Now Raptor and other like pumps with 2 lines (no return line) now those return the fuel internally. So again a 150 GPH pump will return the same 147.5 GPH internally and the return line of the VP44. This is where cavitation is possible.

I wonder what Idaho DOT officer would do... I'm pretty sure he's over weight for sure.

Did you look at the all wheel drive thing for the winter time travel?

I've been doing that for a very long time. Just come in from splitting wood or cutting wood and have sap on my hands. No problem just grab the rubbing alcohol and rub my hands together and then wash then with soap and water afterwards. Got sap on your seats? No problem I used the rubbing alcohol to remove it from fabric or clothing as well.

There you go back to the cavitation because now you'll be primed for low pressure on one side of the pump and high pressure on the other plus the recirculation of the fuel within the pump. It was a known issue even back with the stock Carter pumps. A guy named Gary over on CF create a video showing the cavitation problem with even a stock pump. But now with a slight vacuum on the fuel tank I can imagine it gets worse.

Propane part of the fridge. That easy! The igniter probe is also a thermocouple of sorts its called flame rectification. Flame Rectification sensing1.pdf

Might read over it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation

It could be cavitation of the pump from the recirculation of the fuel. I don't have the bobbing problem at all very very stable pressure.

Reason I like the windows and door silicone is because at oil change time it cleans up really easy compared to other RTV or diff cover sealants. Never had a leak. I've seen a few sealants that have made a absolute mess of the bolt holes and now you got to run a tap in even hole clean the threads. Then have to run a wire brush over the bolts. Way too much work for diff oil change.

I typically just use the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press to change u-joints. Take my impact to press in and press out... Absolutely no problems here.

What I use I know lots of people think I'm nuts... http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-I-9-8-oz-Clear-Window-and-Door-Caulk-GE012A-24C/100091111

I typically just use silicone and hand tighten the bolts no measurements really.

Only way to really check u-joint right is remove the shaft. Also while the shaft is out double check the weights on it. You might find a old weight has flew off and you'll see the old spot weld.

That is very very rare for me to experience unless I'm driving like I stole it. Other than that I would say you have excessive clearance on the pickup tube. There should be about 1/16 to 1/8 of inch from the tank bottom to the tip of the pickup tube. Then the tube should be cut flat and not at a angle. Really common for old school draw straws and improper installment.

Usually the water hammer pulses eats the senders not the ULSD. Like I got a Cummins low pressure switch and water hammer ate it in about 2 years. Now with the 2nd low pressure switch I've got it behind the needle valve with the gauge and both live a very happy life now and no issues for many years. I would start by removing the isolator and hooking directly and see if there is a isolator issue. Also remember the water hammer pulses are being sent to the isolator so the diaphragm is vibrating internally so it does wear out as well from the pulses. This why I'm asking to direct connect and see if its a translation problem between the isolator and gauge.

That truck got wrecked at 1.3 million and he just sold it not to long ago.

Yeah... CR engines are sure fun once you get them deleted and tweaked. But parts are much more expensive. Trust me I thought about upgrading but I just can't get over the simple 24V design and it does work just fine after you get it tweaked in.

Like I said with a boss like him I can't go wrong...

Not that I've heard of even CajFlynn went through a VP44 about every 100-200k miles from what I remember.

No I see your kitchen is laid out way different than mine. The rest of the floor plan looks the same but your kitchen is different. Look like you got it all fixed up rather well and just about ready for the road.

You might want to thank every one on the site being it mostly their information that your learning but I'm just the ring master keeping it organized.

I've got a really cool Boss to work for down at the shop. Well today we finished our work load a bit early and decided to clean up the shop and our tools early. I caught Lindy combining two jugs of aluminum brightener. Then he spins around and says' "Pull your truck over by the power washer." I responded I don't have aluminum mags on that truck (1996) its got chrome wheels." So I do any ways. So he tells me to man the power washer and rinse after he scrubs then down lightly. I rinse the first wheel off and OMG! Talk about removing a bunch of brake dust and brighten that wheel up. He continues to do the wheels and then the bumpers and the grill. Talk about looking really nice and bright. Then he heads in the shop and get out the good car soap and washes the truck down for me. He like, "I can't have you driving around in that dirty truck!" But I will admit that aluminium brightener really does work. It's a acid so make sure to get the wheels rinse down quickly and not leave it sit on them too long. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MCR1458_0075100080

As I close my day out... Hi 79*F Current 71*F Lo 47*F

Starting the morning off at 47*F... Brrr...