Mopar1973Man

You want to tow at nearly prefect level. This will equalize the weight across the tires of the axles and wear tires evenly. I tend to agree about tongue weight it seems either too low or too high it feel heavy. But can't comment on pin weight being the trailer is design differently.

Just about everything is made in China anymore. If it was me, I would go to the local NAPA store grab one and get that trans stuffed back in the truck.

Both are being managed there a 4WD sense lead back to the ABS unit to change it calculation of the braking force.

I don't know what to say to it at all. There is mistakes I see your in-laws made and mistakes that the dealer made. Personally I would of never left the lot till someone else inspected the vehicle either by you or a mechanic (other than the dealer). The only thing I can see here is that maybe the dealer is pull a low blow and filing a lost title on your in-laws vehicle. Because the vehicle is worthless without a title. Can't even crush one without a title.

Here is a few pictures I shot of looking at the Big Salmon River heading toward Riggins, Idaho. I'm up the mountain heading towards Florence, ID (old abandon mining town) which we never made it to because of the snow in the high country yet. Riggins, ID was almost 90*F but we played in the snow for the day. Got video to process yet...

I'm hitched up and ready to go out and play today. More to come when I get home...

Because the magnet on the older sensor is weaker now and the new sensor is stronger so the AC wave that is produced is different. More here too... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

14-15 PSI Starter Bump 12-13 PSI idle 9-11 PSI WOT 35 GPH Pump 75 GPH Plumbing (6mm ID) without banjo bolts.

ABS codes are typically read with a DRBIII tool and can't be read with typical OBDII code readers. No. It should reset at the first few hundred feet. So basically you have a speed mismatch and one axle is running a different speed than the other so the lights remain on. Just like I said you typically have to replace is match pairs. Very very rare do you get luck and just replace one sensor.

Truck will run off the batteries for several hours. So just unhooking the field lead show do it for you. Then like MnTom suggested take a test drive and see if the problem still exist.

Why do that? When there is a Aux Power stud in the PDC. Best to fixed the source of the noise problem than attempting to filter it. Typically deep cycle batteries have less CCA and more Amp/Hours storage. So your trading out the cold starting ability for storage and long term draw function. I would stick to normal starting batteries.

When you do the BC test all your doing is ruling out if the ECM is bad or not. Being it starts without the ECM that means the ECM has taken on damage of some sort to prevent it from starting.

Bit too high I would try for another spring 17 PSI. As for the previous bogging problem you might still check the alternator out. I just talked to Pepsi71Ocean yesterday and found out his transmission and alternator issues were caused by a $10 set of alternator brushes. This created enough AC noise to measure 0.7 and 0.8 AC volts which was enough to create lock up issues and stalling issues.

Dorkweed's way of messing up. Or... After he's done stacking it all.

Still why is utility trailers excluded? I've seen some out weigh some RV's.

Have to go picking on my hair...

Naw... I'm not that greedy...

Here is the owners manual...

Basically anything the ECM/PCM has a sensor for.

That's a question I can't get answered... Why is that only RV's require a Weight Distribution Hitch where most all utility trailers don't? Like my Fire Chief has utility box trailers that gross more weight than my RV but don't require a WD hitch. Even my BigTex 70TV is really close to the RV in weights but doesn't require a WD hitch either. But some can hitch up to a bumper bull flat bed trailer grossing 13,000 to 14,000 with a tractor no problem without a WD hitch but on the flip side RV requires (or highly suggested). Why is this?

Doesn't hurt. Live data tool (like ScanGauge II) would do just fine if you want to watch engine data.

Typically our trucks can haul roughly 9,000 to 13,000 pound trailers. Hitch weight of about 900 to 1,300 (~10%).

HX35W turbo is a 12cm2 exhaust housing and a HY35W turbo is a 9cm2 exhaust housing.

Funny how a isolator can make a quality mechanical fuel pressure gauge in to read junk pressures.

Diesel Auto Power or Vulcan Performance is my only two I deal with being they sell VP44's with a new PSG unit on top where you pay extra money at Blue Chip for new PSG, NAPA I can't confirm if the PSG is new or where they get rebuilt.