Mopar1973Man

I would of kept the old phenolic pistons over the steel ones. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so as brake fluid ages it collects water and what does water do to steel? Rust it out... They don't swell. What happens is the heat transferred to pistons now cakes the brake fluid up on the pistons over time. The phenolic pistons don't ever change size per say but the caked up brake fluid does occur.

I rarely even use 4WD modes. I might use 4LO for the trailer but once again very very rare.

Here is a start. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/wedge-bulbs/

Even in stock form way back when I barely installed my gauges (no fueling mods) I towed a flatbed trailer to Boise, ID to pick up a Chevy truck that was just painted. Coming back over the grade I was rudely woke up watching the pyrometer climbing well above 1,400*F even in stock form. Just because the truck can pull it at any speed doesn't mean its safe to do it.

Absolutely... MnTom is right. I do the same thing as well ST tires are rated for 65 MPH and hold my max speed to no more than 60 MPH. But climbing grades I typically back off of 5th gear drop to 4th (1:1 Ratio) and blast up most 6-7% grade well below 1,200*F and still running 53-57 MPH putting me right at about 2,100 to 2,300 RPM.

Secret. Any time your off road or in dusty conditions make sure to be running MAX A/C to close the air off from outside so you not drawing dust into a sweaty evaporator.

Really... Seriously... What are people thinking or they not thinking?

I would seal the old wire spot with silicone or liquid electric tape.

Not bad. Now since I've got my new RV parking spot under the blue spruce tree I've got it plugged in 24/7 and no issues for 3 years. Barely got to add 8 ounces of distilled water for 2 batteries. I know lead acid won't hold that long without degrading a bit over time.

@MoparDave68 so do you have a functional brake controller? Most states have a laws stating that the trailer must have functional trailer brakes after X amount of pounds.

General happens after two long days of cutting firewood and your exhausted and trying to figure out why... Thanks!

I'm going to suggest to continue using propane. Cheapest way to go. A 30# bottle will run months for just a RV fridge.

Turn the key on and engine not running check the terminal for +12 volts. If there is 12V signal then place your ring terminal on snug the jamb nut while holding the allen screw. Hook your Edge up to the tap. You good to go.

Like in my truck its gotten to the point now that friend place things on the arm rest (center console) and "know" they won't move.

That's what I thought. (Thanks for verifying! ) Injectors remained closed and not firing a drop. But its blue smoke like cold cylinder temps would. As for the turbo still wonder how that could be happening too. If the drive pressure is spiked out during the downhill run and the oil pressure should nearly match pressure (unknown no mechanical). Think I'm just over thinking the whole thing... No issues with oil loss lately still full. No loss in MPG's either still good and strong.

with AH64ID... 1. Charge up the batteries 2. Check water level in batteries 3. Load test batteries 4. Verify all your wiring connections are good and clean 5. Look for heavy draw

Exactly... I did change injectors. About a year ago. I found my post back in April of 2013 install the +50HP injectors. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6732-back-to-stock-injectors-for-a-short-time/

No. That was calculating backwards for the heater of the fridge in DC mode. Using the wattage of the 120V side then calculating the 12V amp draw. No measurement yet for my furnace.

Guilty as charged. I used to be that way have a big rig in front of me and blow around them. Now I tend to just hang back with my 55-60 MPH cruise most times I end up travelling with a semi-truck up the canyon. I've got no problem with that now. When I see my MPG jump up I tend to enjoy the bonus of cruising slower and getting the MPG boost. Easier on brakes, less panic stops, less close calls,etc.

Corrected my post above for DC operation not 12V to keep other from getting confused. But even my Norcold with 2 standard lead acid batteries, 45w (3 Amp charge) solar panel and 1,200w inverter (100 amp draw @ 1,200w) sit around for 2 days watching TV and drinking beer no problems with batteries running dead. It's all about being aware of the loads. I do think your attempting DC operation and ate the batteries in a short order. My Norcold is only a AC or LP operation no DC function. Still in all it best to operate in LP mode, propane is cheap and last a very very long time compared to DC operation eating the batteries fast or putting load on the tow vehicle alternator. AC only works if hooked to city power or genny. Well in AH64ID case his inverter but still even then the load is place back on the tow vehicle. The biggest propane eater is the furnace, next is water heater, then fridge.

They do it on curves, blind hills, etc. They don't care just get out of their way. During the winter time the highway here gets quiet and very few accidents occur. But now get tourist from other states and they drive like they are still in Texas with 80-85 MPH speed limits. If you going 2 MPH slower they pass you. I've actually had people pass me in a fire truck before truck running against the governor and went around me with lights on even. (Most of our trucks govern out at 60-65 MPH).

Slide the tool into the lock. The while hold pressure against the tool twist lightly back and forth of the pipe to free the o-ring. Now it should come off. Typically that's how I free a connector the rocking back and forth will seem to get some oil on the o-rings and get it to slide off for you.

Dare to be different...

Still in all 2 Amp draw should last a long time vs. 200 Amp hours of batteries. At least 4 days calculated to fully dead. What killed your batteries is the main heater which draw lot lot more amperage. Roughly speaking the main heater on 12V is 40 Amp draw which would deplete the batteries to full dead in about 5 hours. But since its only allowed to 10.5 volts the time is even shorter. Like I said charge the batteries back up and switch to LP I'm sure it will work just fine even with the heater.

Ok... DC operation is only advised if you hooked to your truck and travelling. LP mode should be used if boondocking. AC mode should be used if hooked to city power. All I can say is start over with a fully charged battery and make sure your using the proper mode. I typically leave mine locked on LP mode. On a fully charged batteries it will go over 2 weeks without recharging just the fridge alone.