Mopar1973Man

There is something to note here dead pedal is when the pedal is dead no throttle just idle. But now limited pedal is a different story which I've found to be a ECM issue typically. I would start with check all grounds to the batteries and the AC noise voltage of the alternator and go from there. Is there any error codes? How about fuel pressure too?

Really common over on the RV forum I moderate on to see people getting Ford Eco-boost trucks (little 1/2 ton) and attempting to tow a 35-40 foot 5th wheel. Just about 90% of them come back telling tales of white knuckle trips. I'm not saying it can't be done... But what quality of towing are you going to have with a short wheel base? Depends on configurations, weights and total length of trailer. Kind of like Hex0rz trailer / truck combo. His trailer is a monster compared to his little 3/4 ton truck. Another one that comes to mind is Dripley with his monster 5th wheel. But I think he's set properly and travel long distances with his. Another example I can load my BigTex with firewood and be nearly the same weight of my RV and be able to tow it with my little 1/2 ton truck and not even think about it. But now take the length of my RV and same weight my little 1/2 ton couldn't even imagine the idea of towing now. (Tail wagging the Dog). Again its about configuration, weight, length of trailer.

Sound like your just flat out towing way too fast. I don't trust a EGT gauge right up to the last degree I always try for a 100-150*F under 1,200-1,250*F which me error to the side of safety. Also I would never tow over a grade in top gear I always back down hook up with 1:1 ratio (5th gear for 6 speed and 4th gear for 5 speeds) and tow at a much lower speed which reduces EGT's, Coolant temps, and increases the boost pressure. Sounds like its time to pull the engine out and rebuild...

Moved to Government & Politics... Some have voice there opinions about this topic...

Since about 2am last night it been nothing but "Rumble, Crash and Flash" a little rain and a light breeze. Like I said I've stocked up on both fuels gasoline and diesel both. These drums are air tight so fuel last MUCH MUCH longer being gasoline like to evaporate. As for the drums I picked them up from my local oil distributor for $20 dollars a piece. The drums had clean engine oil in them. As of this morning I turned off the sprinklers and turn back on the pelton wheel. Creek is getting really low. Gotta keep on a eye on my water flow up there now.

It's almost 9pm at night still 82*F in the house and it might make it down to 75-76*F by morning.

There was but I've never heard of a 4" diameter can being added to the system too. Pictures would solve this quickly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

As of 8/2 at home...

Could you get a picture of this part? I'm not sure what it would be?

From what I've heard about DTT Assassin fuel pumps they have issues with the regulators either sticking, springs wrong strength, debris in the regulator, etc. 2 Cycle Oil will not change fuel pressure if used properly at 128:1 ratio. Trust me its not the filter causing this pressure drop it solely the lift pump.

The old stock lift pump most likely...

You gotta check this out... http://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/articles/4658-video-deer-meets-porsche-at-full-speed#sthash.2tAodI70.mbqh25aq.dpbs http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=57f_1406269959

You might want to check out... http://nascar.about.com/od/tracks/tp/fastesttracks.htm

Same here I've bought 2 start contact kits from LarryB and still rolling.

Hex is a classic example of over shooting the axle ratings. So what happens is the quality of the towing experience goes down quickly. Trust me Hex has a huge RV! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6890-butt-pucker/

Truck alone... Then... Truck and RV... Weight out all your axles separate if possible. Like the scales down in Council, Idaho is a 3 pad scale. Then the scale in Grangeville is a single pad. So in Council I can pull up and get truck front and rear and trailer in one shot. Then in Grangeville I got to do each axle separate... Truck front axle, truck total, truck rear axle, trailer axle... What this will do is let you know if your balance in weights maybe need to relocate weight in the trailer, lighten, etc. Like myself I scale at least once a year and funny to watch my RV start at 7,300 pound when I bought it to now at 8,020 pounds. Gross weight rating is 8,500 pounds on the trailer. With the rear axle weight just subtract the truck alone from the truck & RV and you'll see your pin weight.

I would suggest long bed for the stability personally. As for 3/4 or 1 ton trucks your still in the weight class for 3/4 being most 3/4 ton trucks are good for 13,xxx worth of trailer. I will admit 1 ton gives more stability but the maintenance cost goes up buying 6 tires over 4 tires. As for weight you need to find out the truck weight without the RV. (Front axle, Total gross weight, rear axle). Then hitch up and scale the truck and trailer both (truck front axle, gross truck weight and rear axle) then your RV axle weight. Then you can figure out pin weight on the truck. Typically 5th wheels are 25% pin weight so worse case would be 3,000 pound in the bed of the on the pin. This is where you need to know if the pin weight combined with the truck is going to exceed the axle weight limit of the rear axle of the truck. Like on my truck its rated for it but I'm at 3,200 on the rear axle now so adding the extra pin weight I would be at 6,200 which is over the axle limit. (6084 pounds)

Good thing its not where I'm working I have enough fun changing fuel filters on Duramax trucks.

Thanks for clearing that up... I didn't know they did dis-continue those pumps.

With MnTom's weather conditions I would say a synthetic might be a better choice. Myself I run petroleum all year round and see no real loss in performance or winter impacts with temps down to -20*F or so. There is many factors to that. I've seen winters when my truck tires had froze to the ground. I've seen where my brakes have froze to the rotors. So in my mind it not valid...

Exactly. I ran 7 years and 135k miles on my first BHAF without a outwears. Mostly back country dirt roads and a lot of dust.

I would avoid short beds for 5th wheel towing unless you got a slider hitch for it. Cab to RV clearance are very tight and won't take much to make contact with some RV's. Few questions is what kind of 5th wheel do you have? A picture of the hitch might help. What is the current scaled weight of the RV? And the gross RV weight? What the length of the RV?

Also check to see if there is a error codes for 5V issues. Check battery ground. Only the main cables supplies ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44. All the other body grounds are for lights and other sub-systems.

From what I've hear is yes. But you need a Dodge Dealer that knows what he's doing to make a proper flash occur. Most dealers techs can't even figure it out, sad to say...

Link please...