Mopar1973Man

Now to put more in the job pot... OR-WWF-Pittsburg fire is now getting going. Now I've got to wait for the phone to ring for the Fire Chief to assign me to a possible wildland fire. We'll see soon. (More info. http://hotlist.wildlandfire.com/threads/41632-OR-WWF-Pittsburg)

Gets even more interesting. Now my morning watering job has gone from just watering to now teaching the water tender as well. I'm going to have another gent with me in the morning I've got to train out on the big Kenworth (Cummins 400). As for the work at the shop the owner is getting buried he's got a waiting list at least 7-9 days long right now. I just finished up doing a parking brake and carburetor overhaul on a older Ford School bus (Local Rafting company). In between all this get paged out for a fire call this morning to a neighbor of the shop I work for. A land owner across the river from Lindy (Shop owner) decided to burn debris without a burn permit and on a 105*F day.

Well there has been some changes to life for me. Like I got called to do a computer job for a local mechanic to set up his OBDII scan tool with a update. While I was there I started talking shop and did a bit of diesel talk too. Needless to say he was rather impressed. Following night he calls up with a vehicle down in front of his place http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8711-newer-ford-powerstroke/ . So I deal with it and get the owner moving on again. Now the mechanic calls me up and ask me to come in and deal with a school bus (With a Cummins 6BT) that has a charging issue. So in about 3 hours get it all figured out that its a A/C system load issue. So now he's dropped a bunch more on me to do more or less been hired! OK so now thing change up even more. Monday evening the Fire Chief calls and asks if I want to make more money? After the joking and BS he tell me the FD will hire me for $15 a hour to water a road in the city of Riggins. It its about a hour job to do every day. So I'm taking morning shift on the watering so now I can water the road early in the morning and then head back over to my job which is only 3 miles away. Till it slows down again I'm going to be hoping.

When installing the injectors did you tight the injector hold down first or did you tighten the crossover tube first? Correct answer is to seat the crossover tube first then tighten the injector cap then return back and tighten the cross over tube completely. Really common to get a high pressure fuel leak in the return rail creating weird issues because of tightening the injector cap first.

I know you don't have a Smarty so that tells me to test your alternator for AC noise. Also you might try to have the ECM reflashed to reset the fuel table. You might read over the diagnostics as well. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

As far as I knew they all came with at least a hose some with a slobber bottle. If it comes out the tappet cover and the gear case is a rubber plug you have the modified version. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

Here is a replacement option... http://www.rvgauge.com/

The only bonus is deep cycle batteries have a slightly deeper sump for lead sulphation to pile up in the bottom. But if you properly maintaining your batteries you'll clear 10 years on the cheap no-name batteries.

Thing is I don't see (personally) any reason for synthetic oils in these trucks. When there is members like CajFlynn putting over million miles on a truck on dino oil. Then flip the page and watch Dorkweed run 84k miles on a single oil change with WalMart oil. (Blackstone tested every 7k miles). So with these two members you can learn a lot...

Just do the diagnostic the best you can. But when a error code is thorwn 9 times out of 10 the code it throw for its device. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal

Sure do...

ECM uses a modulated signal that is a 50% duty cycle. So the ECM during cranking is going OFF - ON - OFF -ON in a rapid pulse. Cranking pressure should be 7-12 PSI optimally. So you need a mechanical gauge to see the pulse because most electric gauges or digital gauges filter the pulse so you don't see it or don't function during cranking.

Here is the 98.5 to 02 stock crankcase vent.

Not true. I've ran a Edge Comp now since 2006 on 5x5 till I upgraded to RV275 injectors and toned down to 5x3. Basically the box is wide open 120 HP with defuel mode of 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost. But I drive daily on this setting even towing. Empty I'm getting 22-25 MPG easy. Loaded with a trailer 7,000 to 8,500 pounds still manage 11-14 MPG. You should this will give you better power and fuel management than you don't have now. As long as you have gauges and a good fuel system right off then a enhancement box like Edge is just fine and these trucks handle the enhanceent just fine. But like I said you get better fuel and timing management over the stock ECM program which is built around the EPA rules.

I got a fancy made fan wrench for the Dodge Cummins from JL Welding. One to hold the pulley and the other to twist the fan nut.

Even after doing the http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod I still have to pull my radiator every few year too flush the face of the radiator out of caked in dirt and mud. Mine is not a strict pavement queen it spends quite a bit of time offroad.

ISX got it. You going to need a Edge Comp or something to do boost fooling. Other than that the whole idea of changing the wastegate goes out the window. What happens is as the engine sees above 20 PSI its to defuel and shut down by 25 PSI it will/should throw a P0234 code for overboost code. So if you wanting any more boost your going to need a fueling box like a Edge Comp or similar for boost fooling. As for controlling EGT's is easy drop 1 gear and kick the RPM's up and the EGT's always fall.

Too much propane...

Try kicking the RPM's up to see if it is a pressure issue while turning. Me personally, I wouldn't bother with the name brand hype I would just replace with a factory power steering pump and gear box. 232k miles and ticking on the clock and still not even a leak on my factory pump or box yet. All the rough road miles and forestry roads.

Doing a site search turned up this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/1502-sngsht/ I sure wish people would list there city and state more...

If I'm not mistaken it based off the actual hitch weight at the tongue. So typically a 7,000 pound trailer would have 10-12% in tongue weight so 700-840 pounds on the tongue. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/equipment/hitches/towing-weight-distribution-systems.htm

Done. As requested.

Here what I can tell you. 3200 Governor spring BHAF Straight pipe 4" Custom cut fuel pin HX35W turbo Is worth about 224/571... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4622-relentless70-dyno-run/

Fan clutch is possible. How about the face of the radiator is it packed with mud, bugs, etc. You'll have to remove the radiator to clean it good from both sides. How about the core tube are they all plugged up with corrosion blooms from old corrosive coolant? Water pump rare to fail but typically you would see the pump weeping water. As for the pump vane being gone or broke would be cause from corrosive coolant eating them. So when was the last coolant system flush and fill last done?

Yea... I did call. Yea its a 11mm socket. I would of just spray it with hair spray and put it back on. Torque it correctly there is a actual in/lbs number for the clamps.