Mopar1973Man

Has anyone taken time to look at ratios? 8 Gallons of fuel x 128 = 1,024 Ounces Adding 1 ounce to 1,024 ounces of fuel (1,024:1 Ratio) Attachment is MSDS and links below are the different chemical used just to show you break down of products. You can look up the CAS numbers of each thing and dig deeper. http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB5938980.htm http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0436.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB7479115.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_111-76-2.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_95-63-6.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/ProdSupplierGWCB9895825_EN.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_1330-20-7.htm http://s07.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/corporate/trading-shipping/downloads/msds/in-country/netherlands-str/md-distillates-petroleum-hydrotreated-light-cas-64742-47-8---str---en.pdf http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_100-41-4.htm This is to teach everyone that you can do your own research on a product and deem if you want to use said product or what? But at least I show a way for you to break down all the products used in a additive so you can figure out if you want to use this product or not. 264-137ND-msds.pdf

Welcome to the family!

Run Supertech Power Steering fluid year round with temps as low as -25*F not issues with whine or steering. But I always flush the system out before winter and start winter with a fresh batch of power steering fluid that isn't all scorch out from summer heat.

Because there isn't any difference. 40 weight is 40 weight. The 5w and 15w are you cold weight characteristics. So you start-up characteristics changed a little bit but the full heated characteristics remained the same of 40 weight. You would have to change to 10w-30 or 5w-20 to see changes. It the second number you want to drop. But once again there is no one around me that sells a CI-4 or CJ-4 oil in any other weight than 15w-40 period. All the 10w-30 and 5w-20 is all "S" rated oils which are not designed for our engines.

There is a rebuild kit for it... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

True but what your seeing is things like Xylene that is added to the fuel for pour point depressant. This will evaporate off and still leave the petroleum product behind. Take a peek at today MSDS sheets for just plain old #2 diesel you'll be shock at what is added these days. What would be better yet is a product designed by Bosch for there own fuel systems. Even Dodge and Cummins to this day post weird information in concerns to Bosch fuel system but Bosch has there own standards. Might not be bad per say but I don't know of very many people that actually sit down with calculator and say "I pumped 22.493 Gallons that is 2,879.104 ounces of fuel and need to add in 7.19 ounces of additive for 400:1 ratio." Most take the bottle and pour in a huge gulp of it and guess. Then other fill the fuel filter up with straight product and start the truck even harsher yet. So is this over does a good thing or bad thing? Depends on the product and how much huh?

Thinking of that I've seen rare cases after cleaning connectors and adding dielectric grease to them, I've seen where they build up a bit of pressure and push it back out of the socket and because it never really locked or the socket lock is broke.

Possibly too but it never hurts to inspect everything to fine out there is nothing wrong. At least then you can rest assured that everything is just a OK...

Every since I got on the 2 cycle oil I've never used any anti -gel either and see winter temperature as low -25*F. So what I've always done is my homework of where the quality fuels are and who adds PPD (pour point depressants). Ask yourself how I got this picture if I didn't do my homework. Hmmm?

He's right on the the mark but here is the diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

Start by reading about the CCD network... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus Then verify all the CCD network is all connected properly.

The 3rd Gen trucks were built around the EPA rules more so that actual efficiency and power. Kind of like going back in time and seeing the old school muscle cars of the 60's then looking into the 70's of how they smog them out with EGR valve, air pump, modified cam, etc. All EPA junk and killed off the muscle car generation. So now looking at Diesel Trucks we are going around one big circle all over again.

Not really. I'm still running 3" exhaust as well. Because if you driving for economy/efficiency then there is no driver pressure or boost pressure so 3" is just fine. Now if your racing I would say for sure 4 inch exhaust would gain you much more because drive pressure is way up and so is boost pressure.

Two forms of verification (ScanGauge II and hand written logs) Remember my ScanGauge II numbers are from Home to point A and back home. The fuel logs are from fuel station to fuel statino and might not be the same one. Also my odometer is off by 0.5 MPH so my ScanGauge II is more accurate over my hand math logs.

Here you go. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/45-2001-dodge-ramrar/

Get a power steering gear box rebuild kit and go through the box. Not to hard to rebuild. Just all the BB's for the screw shaft are a real PITA to get back in the box. So be careful they tend to come rolling out all over the place.

Not worry about that either. I had both my 1973 Dodge Charger and the 1978 Dodge Magnum XE parked under that tree for many many years the only spots that leak sap was cut limbs. So when I did my pruning I made sure to prune all the way back to the main trunk.

Nice to see the family helping each other out!

Really the truth is the original contractor that built the house back in 1962 put that outlet out under the tree so ever winter for Christmas you could decorate the tree with lights and Christmas decorations. But as you can see the tree is huge now and the rock was just a bonus. I've been wanting to create a good spot for the RV for quite some time and this worked out totally awesome. Guarded from the wind, snow to a degree, and the harsh summer sun. I plan on leveling the spot more and adding some road mix to make the ground firm. Now I can store the RV in a level spot and fire up the fridge and keep it cold if need be.

Current bushes don't grow very well in Idaho during the winter but Voltage Rocks do work well even in the cold winters of Idaho. But they are hard to find.

Well Gang. I created me a awesome RV storage spot under the edge of my spruce tree and guarded most of the summer sun from the south. It took a bit of tree pruning and ground clean up but I now have a awesome spot for the RV and no longer have to worry about the RV baking in the summer sun and moving all around the yard and killing the grass. etc. I still can have both solar power and city power here being the electric rock is under the tree. Solar is a bit limited but better than nothing.

I might be true we need the pour point correction but all these product advertise improvement in HFRR score. How can it when there is no lubricant in the product? As for pour point depressants this why I first suggest investigating you local fuel supplier and then properly adding the PPD to the fuel not willy nilly dumping it in when its not required.

Remember these trucks will start and run without a lift pump. Even with zero fuel pressure the vane pump in the VP44 is just enough to keep the engine going. Might not run fast but it will still drive on city streets. So this method doesn't work very well. Best to make the truck not start at all by disabling the starter solenoid or the VP44 power supply.

Take any oil you want and place it in a open container. Say a small amount of 2 cycle oil in a Pepsi bottle cap. Then take any other product you want and pour equal amount in a second Pepsi bottle cap and leave it out for 7 days and watch. Answer: The oil will remain oil till the end of time. But 90% of all fuel additives will evaporate and leave a tar or sticky substance behind. True lubricants don't evaporate.

Still can use it. Like all summer in Riggins, ID it's about 100-110*F so I've got desert type heat here too.