Mopar1973Man

I was checking out your gauges and Wow! They are expensive.

As for the anti-freeze there is some much out there and different brands and claims. I'm not too willing to risk re-plumbing a RV to a frozen pipe like what happen to 1976 Dodge Motorhome it froze to and blew a CPVC line and was a absolute PITA to replumb. So I tend to avoid anything that might become solid or expand and break fragile plastic fittings and plumbing. Like I said if air freezes you got bigger problems at -300*F or so.

Here you go gang I did a full YouTube video of how I changed out the master and slave cylinder and bled the system out and installed. I'll get this moved over to the article database and updated as well.

Could be worse it could be 61 beers or shots of whiskey!

I would like to let everyone know one of the staff members had a birthday yesterday... HAPPY BIRTHDAY DRIPLEY (David Ripley)

Really common mistake. I see guys blow up power steering pump and never flush the trash out. and Install a new pump to wonder why the new pump last for such a short time and fail again. Same thing with brakes. Caliper jams up and replace with brand new caliper and pads and then whine about the brakes dragging again because they just flush all the dirt into the new calipers.

Regardless dinosaurs are extinct period. Digging up bones and analyzing this stuff just seem like a huge waste of money. I wish this doctors and scientist would put this much effort into saving lives of the living people that are here on the planet NOW! Still have diseases, cancer, and other things that need attention. But something that is dead and gone and study it more???

Go to your profile and set up your notifications the way you wish. My Settings and then My Notifications select what you want for email and otherwise.

Like with my setup I found my long run of cable plus the size is limiting me a bit. I do have the inverter but can't quite get the power there. But I don't plan on large heater appliances like a coffee make or such. More or less small table lamp, laptop, charge a cellphone, charge AA batteries for cameras, or maybe charge the video camera up. I know the setup runs my little TV just fine. So I'll have enough power to fire up the A/D signal converter and TV or DVD player and TV. Thing is when we typically go camping is to get away from everyday work and grind so we don't try and have it all in the RV too. So if that means I got to do without maybe its for the best. But is awesome the RV is still parked in the yard unplugged from 120VAC power and and going be charging again today in the sun. One more thing not on the power bill here. Here soon I'll do a dry run in the yard when I can remain above freezing. I'll do a complete dry run without ZERO hook up and see how far I can push. Now there is the test.

Flush the brakes before you take them apart. Nothing like having fresh rebuilt calipers and flushing the dirty brake fluid out of the master cylinder into the newly rebuilt calipers.

I think Tom is right as long as the ECM sees the start pulse regardless of even the starter being present on the vehicle. I looked at the wiring diagram and now scratching my head a bit. The start/run position of the switch is tied so how does the ECM know if its start or run if both are the same wire?

Also it might be time to check the inside and outside diameter of the pistons and bores. I found that over time with heat cycles the brake fluid cakes up on the pistons and bind up the pistons. All you have to do is remove the entire caliper and pull the pistons and seals out. Now drop check the piston in a empty bore. The the piston will not fall to the bottom on its own then the piston needs tuning. I typically take light grit sandpaper and lightly sand the piston. Clean and test again. Each piston should be snug fitting but always fall to the bottom of the bore without being pushed. The trick is the hydraulic pressure of the brake fluid will push the pads out but only the little wobble with attempt to push the pads so if the pistons at sticky then more than likely they will drag. About every 50k or 75k miles I got to break mine down and clean up.

Actually I ran the load range G's on my pickup and no different in ride at all. Just adjust tire pressure accordingly and it was like any other load range E tire.

2000 Jayco Eagle 296 FBS Capacity Specifications Fresh Water 56 Gallons Grey Water (2 Tanks) 80 Gallons Black Water 45 Gallons Propane (2) 30 Pound Bottles Water Heater 6 Gallons Battery (2) 12V Deep Cycle Batteries Measurements Total Length with Truck 51 feet Full frame & Coach 8 feet (W) x 31 feet (L) x 11 feet (H) Just Coach 8 feet (W) x 28 feet (L) x 11 feet (H) Slide 3 feet (W) x 12 feet (L) Wheelbase 21.5 feet Other Equipment Refrigerator Norcold N841 Stove / Range Atwood HO Wedgewood Water Heater Atwood XT 6 Gallon Water Heater Furnace Atwood Excalibur 8500 IV Air Conditioning Coleman Slide Power Gear Water pump ShurFlo Brake Controller Prodigy P2 Hitch / Weight Distribution Eaz Lift Pro Star Ultra Current NADA Value (as of July, 2012) Orignal Base Price $19,959 Low Retail $8,045 Average Retail $9,695 Kirkham Hotsprings 2011 Black Canyon Reservoir 2011

Here is my BigTex 70TV Trailer. Manufacture Specifcations... 70tv.pdf

I'm going to have to spend some time reading his long article. I sampled tidbits from it and its not bad.

Down to the last bit of wiring. I ran my 6 AWG in 1/2" plastic conduit pipe. It worked out awesome because there was just enough give in the underside matting to slip a 1/2" conduit right across the tops of the ribs. The stuffed my 6 AWG wire from inverter to the batteries up front. All connections where soldered for the best connection possible. Even in the background I re-done the bridge leads between the batteries with fresh 6 AWG lead. I left the inverter lead disconnected for the time being till I get my 100 amp fuse from NAPA on Monday. This is now my second day of solar power on the RV. I know the battery voltage is low and not as high because I was load testing the inverter with everything from TV set, to a small heater to get a feel for how much power there is. A bit better view of the solar panels. Reason I opted for smaller panels and not mounting them on the RV is them I can park the RV in the shade and the place my solar panels in the sun. Enjoy a nice cool spot in the RV and panels will charge all day long. But if the panels where mounted to the roof then the RV would have to parked in the sun for good power collection. Now since the panels are free standing I had to have a set of panel I could store in the RV. So now size and weight became a factor. My last small project is to make a cord can under the RV so I can roll up my solar cord and stuff in back in a tube. More or less take a piece of 3" ABS sewer pipe cap one end and the put a clean out on the other end. Do a bit of magic in routing your cord into the can and mounting and your set. That's another day.

Yeah... I've been over that one too. I do some continued searching in the evening hour while laying in bed. I typically burn Google out trying all kinds of searches and terms looking for information for our truck hence the lucky find on that PDF. Sometimes you really gotta dig to find what your looking for.

Group 27's and two batteries. But I plan on adding a 6 AWG main bus line to the system to handle the inverter and RV loads. Yeah I know the RV original main bus line is rather weak and needed a upgrade. So its now getting it.

I went back out later on and turn on the furnace and kicked back in the RV as it ran. Cleaning up some of my debris and trash from the project. I left the cabinet open to watch the voltage and reaction. So I set the heat for 65*F and it was 60*F inside already so it ran for about 10-15 minutes and dropped to about 11.8 volts show both on the gauge and solar controller. It was overcast out and not direct sunlight. Once the furnace completed its cycle it pop back up to 12.2 volts. I continued to fiddle around in the RV cleaning up stuff and within a short while it was up to 12.5 volts. I left and came back up to the house about hour later even being overcast out it finally reached 12.6 volts again. It's not a perfect system that recovers instantly (which would require more panels) but it does charge back up the batteries in a fair amount of time. I'm wanting to redo the master bus lines for the RV original wiring and then add my inverter bus lead in too. So MoparMom is wanting to go to McCall, ID tomorrow so I'll be able to get my EMT tubing and miscellaneous stuff to finish the project. So the stats will be. 3 Solar Panels @ 15 Watts a piece with a total of 45 Watts of power @ 14 volts and 3.2 Amps DC. 1,200 Watt Inverter (100 Amp DC load @ 12 Volts) with a surge rating of 2,400 Watts (200 Amp load @ 12 Volts)

Tanks vents are designed to vent the vacuum off but not pressure. This is a safety issue for emergency responders like fire dept to have a fuel tank gain pressure from heat or fire and have it start venting liquid fuel like at a vehicle accident. All fuel tanks should hold pressure to a point just a safety design.

Here is what I got on hand... It might help. (attachment) 54262388-Cummins-Isb-Chrysler-FIS3666288.pdf

Ok. This also means that you can't run 65 MPH constantly either. You'll have to back down on speed as well to prevent blowouts. Like running a engine at red line for extended period surely will reduce the longevity of the engine. Just the same with ST tires you cannot run exact 65 MPH and not expect it to blow out either. I've got the same problem with both trailers I've got the Rv and utility trailer I limit my speed to 55-60 MPH and no issues with tires. The RV is going into its 4 year and still looking good. The Utility trailer will be starting its second year by mid to late summer.

Well I got a break in the rain showers here and got a good start on the solar project. First I had to re-organize the power cabinet to fit everything. Here is before... Then now after moving both DC fuse panel and the AC breaker box and converter box to the back wall. Then I managed to get the solar controller hooked up and the solar lead ran outside. Even getting a good charge when the sun peeked out. I've got my 6 AWG wire ran through the floor but I need to head to town and pick up some EMT tubing and run it down the frame rail so the wire is protected. Also got to pick up the proper sized lugs for the inverter. So this is a small stab at the project and now it back to raining again. As for the solar controller I used the factory wiring for it and routed it through the floor and outside. As for hooking up the solar controller I used some 16 AWG wire and had a unused fuse socket in the RV panel so I used it for hook-up. As for the max current flow from these panels is 3.2 Amps DC @ 14 Volt DC which is 45 Watts.

Small problems with Tapatalk now. * Advertisements I have no control over now. * Tapatalk software adds server load and database load to the site. I will admit Tapatalk is a very popular program but when you got smart phones you like to provide a very light weight data package to your members not bottle up with extra advertisements. This is more so on the site owners that are running the freeware version of Tapatalk so Tapatalk could make some money from us. As for the PUSH notifications I seen that tidbit on the vB4 and when it does is creates another database table so store duplicate notices of like the site does with emails. So if you low active members using smart phone then the database fills up rapidly with both email notices and PUSH notices. Nice feature but Tapatalk didn't provide a way to prune to trim the database after X amount of days. At least IPB is providing the site means to trim the old data back and keep the data cleaned up.