Mopar1973Man

Mine took 2 shims being they are thinner than most washers. All based on how thick they are. More or less a test and try method.

Lets say I've crossed 1,400 a few times on fire calls and passing vehicles on the highway. But its only for max of about 10 seconds. 1,200 is safe to run. It just once past that no one knows how long any thing will last. One pyrometer gauge might be + few degrees and the other might be - a few degrees so who is to say what is safe? Like I said pistons are aluminum and they are cooled by engine oil so how long... Don't know. But as long as your below aluminum melt point you should be safe. I typically float 550-600*F at 55-60 MPH at about 2-3 PSI of boost. Typically can reach the 20's for MPG's...

I bet that if you could wire that drill in to the 12V and mount it somewhere it would work better than AirDog. With all the people I talk to on the phone AirDog quality is at a all time low really.

Aluminium melts at 1,220*F (660*C). There is cooled oil sprayed at the pistons from underneath. So extended 1,200*F is safe all day long. But you'll notice the coolant temps will be elevated still normal but higher than typical. 1,000-1,100*F you will see less increase in coolant temperatures typically float about 193-197*F. Optimal for 20+ MPGs you want to get below 600*F and 5 PSI of boost.

Sad to say I've got a phone call of a gentleman back east that just lost his 4th AirDog in one month time frame. So each one lasted about 1 week a piece. The last one barely made 100-120 miles I was told. Since he's strapped for cash so he's going back around for another warranty pump number 5. Ugh. Such a wonderful product but total junk now. Reminds me of the vBulletin threads I read... http://www.theadminzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106727 http://www.theadminzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106441 Now you know why I swapped forum software. But Like as you read the older AirDog's like mine are like the older vBulletin 3 software rock solid and still working. Strange but true...

Ouch... Time to tear it down and get it sent off for rebuilding.

Starter... That's easy. Now do a VP44 in a rain storm on the side of the mountain with no shelter, no power for a shop light, just a Mag Light stuffed in my mouth and wrench in hand while working under a tarp. Still got it done in 2 hours (bit slow).

No joke. Quality part do cost more but do keep in reason. My full Southbend Con OFE with 13" flywheel ran $750 bucks.

Thing is the most torque is typically produced around 1,900 to 2,100 RPM's This is where the efficiency is the highest for towing. For empty running your best be down lower between 1,500 - 1,700 RPM's... With that being said there is little benefit to going above this range. You can run the engine against the governor all day long and not hurt it. (In theory - I personally don't suggest it!) But now the efficiency is going to really low.

Just to toss one on the thread I been talking to a gentleman back east that has lost four AirDog 100 pumps in about one month time. This last one barely travelled 100 miles and losing pressure. Seem AirDog isn't very secure or stable any longer.

Time to do a inspection of the front differential and the CAD unit.

I'm running a Southbend Con OFE for a clutch and it holds my current power (+50HP injectors and Edge Comp) and can tow a gross combine weight of at least 17,000 pounds without issues. Check over at DAP he seem to have good prices, also stay to the standard organic clutches and single disc.

I gotta admit its cool sounding but I'd sure hate to run out of air somewhere. Bicycle pump are you kidding?

Yabbadoo & Dorkweed...

I'm not sure.

Just thinking outside the box it seems like the timing is advanced and causing the popping. Maybe difference between cam and injection is off? Can you verify your cam timing. Like AH64ID also has a updated cam as well and re-used his cam gear verify it all indexed properly.

Like this one too...

Ground behind the starter is the fuel heater and lift pump not the ECM. Double check AC voltage and be sure before installing the new ECM.

I wish... To many things are too damaged. The timing piston is so screwed up that you need to use a propane torch to heat up the body of the pump to even move the timing piston. I lost a few springs on the vane pump as they went flying across the shop as I pulled it apart. Then I broke the piston ring on the timing piston messing with it. The body of the pump is all beat to death from the previous owner.

First off the only ground for the PCM, ECM and VP44 is the battery cable itself there is no body grounds for them. Second off check your alternator AC noise voltage. This is about 90% of the reason why ECM and VP44 die. Using a good DVM and testing at the back of the alternator you should see less than 0.1 Volts AC. Anything over 0.1 AC volts is a fail. As far as what I know all ECM will work but all of them must be programmed for your truck before use being there is roughly 50 different versions of software out there. So your going to be stuck with Dodge Dealer with a DRBIII tool. I've never heard of a Smarty being able to completely reflash a ECM. Dealer price isn't bad at all and with a warranty is even better yet.

More pictures. Like I said I still going to keep this ring on my desk for all the pictures anyone wants of it. Inside plastic. Outside harden steel face. The damaged edge from prying it out. Looking through the hub.

I would still clean any oil residue from the intercooler so if there is any dust it doesn't collect inside the intercooler. It just best to clean everything from the turbo all the way to the manifold.

I wouldn't use a turkey baster... Reason why. I would rather remove all four calipers and allow the system to drain out of each open line. Pull apart all four calipers and clean them out and inspect everything. Seals, piston fit, etc. Then bleed the system out as you reload the system. But make sure to clean out the reservoir the best you can. If you have to pull the roll pin and remove the reservoir and rinse it with solvent and dry to keep more debris from running into the system. As for bleeding I prefer a full long stoke every time this way to keep the full length of the bore in use so the day comes when you need it you'll have it. But if you continue to short stoke it then you might wind up eating the seals off the master cylinder piston.

The plastic is moulded to the metal and the plastic side is inward towards the bowl. There is two sealing o-rings one smaller on the shaft and then the larger o-ring on the lip of the plastic. The only thing holding the plate in place is one snap ring.