Mopar1973Man

So why isn't people increasing the size of all the intake piping and intercooler? (Just to make people think a bit).

No joke. That's why I stay after the washing of the truck because I hate to have to use a putty knife to find all the bolts like I do on customers rigs. Not to mention it does reduce failures of parts because of less contact with grit from dust and oil build-up.

More of that here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Fuel pressure is too low and should be kept between 14-20 PSI at all times for optimal health of the VP44. But you have a seized timing piston and most likely nothing can be done about it now (P0216). The other cause for this is lack of fuel lubricity and not meeting Bosch's requirement of <450 HFRR where most today's fuel is ~520 HFRR. The dead pedal is a sign of a bad alternator and AC noise causing shifting issues with the torque converter. So I would have the alternator tested for AC noise and also scan for any error codes to give more clues.

Good point! I forgot to consider that myself.

I'm using the old school draw straw outside the basket. No issues here for the most part. I can drive all the way down to the empty mark with this old school straw.

I personally do not see much advantage to free spin hubs being I'm already above the average norm for MPG with solid locked axles. Unit bearings last much much longer with smaller lighter wheels than wide heavier wheels and tires. So what every 8-9 year I change a set of unit bearing and able to reach into the 20's for MPG's. The only thing that does happen with free spin hubs is you not have a maintenance interval of hand packing the bearings and having to keep a part number list for the oddball parts you now modified to the truck. I will admit unit bearings are expensive but if you take care of your truck and not abuse the bearing with heavy/wide tires they should last a very long time.

I'm not too worried about it I checked the hosting of our site and it was corrected within days of being reported. Then as for Ubuntu Linux it was repaired in a few days too (7th April, 2014). Since I don't use Encryption on my personal computer nor the web site there is no need to worry. It's only encrypted sites like Facebook, Banking sites, etc. Anything that uses "https" prefix. http://www.ubuntu.com/usn/usn-2165-1/ All web sites that use "http" are excluded as far as I know because of not using the encryption. I use KeepassX for password database and sample passwords I use are... https://www.grc.com/passwords.htm 5216AD4D289523DF866C01B8FC1BA7BEB83885D6254164FBEECC0983B8ECADB8 g(;a_5$WPRaA~xwe0'GS2gn.[eMSEX.QPNVSJK('$LO_XLg:YwjXgrVoOjx<1L5 C5XdUG83V4eGUbNoQ85oCEvYVcNm2wAQuG8JBQ8hlcBwI8gv2hWfijFLmYNqt7D

More than likely binding the ground wire to the PCM I suggest you remove it and return to stock wiring and fix the real issue which is typically a bad alternator diode. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues

As for daily drivers even 3" has no effect to MPG or daily driver performance because typically your at very low boost pressure and even drive pressures so the 3" exhaust has very little effect. But 4" is optimal but once your boost/drive pressures are on average very low. Now for full on racing I can see possibly that 4" exhaust doing better than 3" because the extremely high boost pressure and the drive pressure of the exhaust system. Depends on where you at and what your doing of what is best for exhaust system. But the turbine housing is the biggest choke point than the exhaust elbow.

Exactly... I don't like having internet ammo suppliers reporting that I'm buying ammo in bulk or what I'm buying. Lack of privacy.

Welcome to the family... We'll try and help the most we can with your project.

Watch your EGT's keep them down below 1,200*F which is best.

1. Before doing all that do the diagnostic to verify it's not a wire or some other issue. If the APPS is truly bad then get a Timbo's APPS. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low 2. Double check your cranking pressure. I know you Edge CS is worthless for cranking pressure testing and will require a mechanical gauge to test it. You should see 7-12 PSI bouncing while cranking. More than likely there is nothing for a short span then pops up which is a sign of loss prime. 3. Shift into Neutral for a short span to allow the trans pump to fill the torque converter and see if that help with the bogging out. 4. Once again electric gauges aren't worth much. Hook up a mechanical gauge and verify the gauge is accurate. I've seen way too many people install the fuel pressure sensor at the VP44 without protection of a needle valve or a high quality snubber and eat the senders. Another problem is people get paranoid of the draw straw sucking bottom so they cut way too much off and end up sucking air all the time. 1/16 to 1/8 inch max for clearance on the tip of the tube on a dry tank. It a must to cut the tube STRAIGHT not at a angle! As the fuel tank is filled the bottom will flex another 1/8 to 1/4 of inch depending on level and fuel temp. Hence why the original fuel pickup was spring loaded and allowed the tube remain at the bottom of the tank.

Just about all sizes of ammo are available in McCall, ID now. I might pick up a few more boxes of 9mm for a the pistol next time I head that way.

Cummins did allow up to 5% by volume (approximately 1.75 gallons) of WEO or fresh engine oil to be added for 12V engines. Even Centinel adds way less than that for injecting back into the fuel. But also take notice that it only available for larger engines not for the smaller 4/6BT or ISB engines.

That's awesome Wild & Free. I'm glad to see you got your health in check and living a better life now!

I'm running TowMax tires on the TT no issues after 3 years so far. But I will admit a lot of people favor the Maxxis tires.

Really pouring the silicone to the joints...

Actually that's a sign of weak batteries or bad cables. In other words the voltage is dropping off quickly and causing the low volt warning. Normally with strong batteries and good cables this will never happen. So time to do a voltage drop test and battery load test.

I might have to look into that.

I've used PenzOil, Quaker State, Yama-Lube, Stihl Oil, Super Tech, etc. Not really. As long as its TCW3 you should be fine (Ashless).

Here is a screen shot of one of the videos of the jet engine powered jet boat. This boat would top out at about 140 MPH on the river. I'll process videos later when I get home and post a YouTube.

Whew! Good night of sleep and getting ready for another day of working safety boat. I hooked up with our boat Captain "Tony Yost" and nice to hook up with good friends from last years Jet Boat races. I'll have my video camera today and hopefully catch somme action shots where we are at. River is high and running rough. Took a ride yesterday and is mean enough for a normal jet boat to toss it around like a toy in the rapids.

Yeah... Busy day watching the race boats, getting paperwork and things setup. I'll post more later...