Mopar1973Man

With the high idle no. There is no boost at idle or fast idle (correct term).

With winterized #2 diesel fuel I see typically 900-1000*F consistently. About 600-700*F without the Exhaust brake which is still really good. In your case I would suggest against it being your EGT's do get out of control.

P0234 means he past the usable fuel table and went into the red zone fuel table when starts cutting fuel. Like saying for example... 18 PSI = 100%, 19 PSI = 100%, 20 PSI = 100%, 21 PSI = 50%, 22 PSI = 25% (Unknown to actual settings) So as he gaining boost the stock ECM table starts cutting fuel to protect itself. But now add a boost fooler (plugin between ECM and MAP sensor) which is nothing more than a regulator it will stop at about 18-19 PSI it might fuel past it a bit more but the ECM is blind and can't figure any more than 18-19 PSI and timing for such. Quick to 18-19 PSI after than it would fall on its face. Rare but possible. Which is the most common.

Still way above me for that venture. But.... Now with what I'm learning about the pump I think we can now work on way to improve the longevity and not even worry about failures. I still would have to say most of all the failures are listed over on my article page. Majority of the failures tend to revolve around the PSG unit on top of the VP44. Even to take the timing piston out requires quite a bit of disassembly to get it out. If its like the pump I have here you most likely are not going to save the timing piston nor be able to repair it properly. At that point I can say the P0216 code is cause from a timing piston failure and its going to be wrapped up in either fuel pressure or HFRR in the case of this VP44 it was more so the HFRR was too high and the piston galled up till it seized. Even with a steel sleeve in the piston bore it galled the piston and the bore. Now as for the P0251, P0252, P0253, P0254, P0215, and P1689 you can bet money the AC noise from a bad alternator most likely killed the PSG possibly a heat issue on the PSG but I've only seen one report of P0168 VP44 overheat. Being the only thing the PSG has is a tone wheel inside the pump, hydraulic valve to control timing piston and a solenoid to control fuelling. That's it the PSG is a very simple controller and limited to what it can do by the software flash to it at calibration time on the bench.

Different story using a Smarty vs. a MAP Sensor boost fooler. With Smarty they are rewriting the fuelling table to continue fuelling to its limits without a over boost code but make use of the last enter holding max fuelling. Now with a MAP sensor boost fooler the fuel table is unchanged and has the stock tapper off effect designed into it. In either case there is much more than 22-25 PSI (unknown exact number) as a limit on the ECM fueling table. Beyond that there is no more table. There isn't the room hardware wise to extend the table either.

Here is the flat plate... http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/high-idle-switch-98-02-custom.htm

May... Or May not. I think all of them have there place and particular desires by others. Remember the flat plate is universal and just needs a 3/8" so overhead, knee bolster, etc. Drill your hole and route the cables.

I'm also thinking more electronic failures of the PSG is cause more so from failed alternator and not heat cycle or heat from the VP44. Being a majority of people now have a good fuel system and can hold 14-20 PSI I'm going to bet its mostly AC noise blowing out small part on the PSG circuit board. I'll admit yes hot summer day and park and heat soak that pump. But if you have at least a FASS DDRP or similar you should be able to flood that first chamber with cold fuel in a few seconds. My VP44 will be going on 10 years old this spring with almost 200k miles on it. Seeing summer heat of Riggins, ID every year at 110-115*F every summer. Kind like the previous post about stock carter and stock VP44 still going well into the 200k mile range. Does make you wonder. But no one has a ll the details on that either. Does the owner have a fuel pressure gauge? Using 2 Cycle oil or fuel additives? Fuel filters how good and what brand? Is the truck just a daily grocery getter or what? Kind of like me bouncing back and stating I've got fully OEM stock front end parts on my 1996 Dodge with no issues of death wobble. Only changed ball joint and a track bar on my 02 and still OE parts on it. Gotta look at the type of use, type of modification that might effect longevity, driver/owner knowledge, etc.

Another argument is the vane pump inside will boost the pressure as well. Bad part is no one knows how much volume that pump can put out at 400-1600 RPM which exactly half of the crank speed which is 800-3200 RPM's. Then the fact looking at the return port hole is much smaller versus the supply hole. So once again a good 14-20 PSI is fine 10-13 PSI is marginal (discounting the vane pump). Absolutely no reason for pressures above 20 PSI. Now another neat thing is looking at the 3 pump plungers they are not spring loaded. They are pushed out with fuel pressure from the vane and lift pumps. I kind of want to figure out a way to open up the distributor part to show that part which does the actual pumping. But I can see the P0216 code for sure. I'm going to have to say that 90% of that failure would be a lubricity issues more so that fuel pressure. Being the piston wear is lubricity issue more so being the entire piston submerged in diesel fuel.

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve

Flow paths I could figure out. Supply is on the right banjo fitting and return is on the left banjo fitting. Return comes from the distributor rotor. Looking at the distributor and the ports. Vane Pump to the distributor. From the timing piston to the vane pump? Valve for the timing piston. Check Valve Check Valve to the vane pump. I can tell you the return flow is what is left over after the rotor is done pumping. I can tell you that the cooling of the PSG is done with cold supply fuel from the tank not return fuel. Sorry about screwing up the PSG photo. I got the lid pried off and drop a few chips in the gel figuring it would just blow off with out touching the gel to get them. I found out the gel is like a thick clear grease.

1. Won't do much more than keep the CEL from lighting up. It will not extend your fueling map. So your fuel map will still tapper off at the same point just no error codes. This why I would suggest a good fuel module that taps the wire because now you extending the fuel map for what the module sees and pushing the extended fuel pulse on the wire tap. So when the boost goes past ECM limits the module creates its own map and extends the signal on the wire tap. 2. Suggested to fix it. Remember that turbo is spinning very fast and going extreme in boost pressure will in turn create hot boost (choke point) and possibly over speed the turbo till it blows up. Best to still have a limit to prevent damage. 3. Not really. Just fix this one by freeing the wastegate arm. It's really common to see on city drivers where the turbo rarely spools up good and tight to actually use the wastegate so it rusts shut. I would even go as far as just replacing the turbine housing if you can't free it. No need to get expensive. My little turbo mistake cost over $820 bucks.

Would it be better if I could provide link for Virtual Box and Torrent of Tiny XP?

Still awfully foamy still. I've never seen mine hold foam for very long after. I typically pop the cover with a putty knife. As for checking fluid level I should be able to loosen the plug tip it slightly grab a sample of fluid running out screw it back in and be done. I never have to dip a finder or screwdriver to check levels. How I fill is I fill to it running over then using my thumb as a dam fill just a bit more and through the plug in. Axles, transfer case and transmission.

This is why I suggest the 14-20 PSI fuel pressure to keep the overflow valve open fully and flowing maximum amount of fuel flow for return.

I'll do some route checking for the return fuel. Correction... All parts are lubricated by fuel not oil. This why the <450 HFRR is so critical for the VP44 pump because all the rollers and shoes don't have bearings just harden parts.

Mine no matter what I do when I spin the filter off it drains out of the filter base all down the side of the filter and dripping on the ground. Never drains back.

I'm going to keep this pump semi assembled for show and tell reasons. I'm going to take the time and clean all the parts up and tweak them for easy fitting and then do like ISX did with the P7100 pump and show the functions in video form. But being this pump is a train wreck and needs some serious clean up I'll get on the ball and get that done. I want to make this pump easy to pull apart and show part placement and everything for all future questions about VP44. I think its finally awesome to kill off that old diaphragm myth of tearing and so forth.

You might want to check out this thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8021-ive-recieved-the-vp44/

The front seal. That would be the only thing that would still worry me with over pressure. Knock yourself out drop a link anywhere you want...

Another miss... Remember the VP44 is turn the same rate as the Cam 1/2 of Crank RPM's so If your cruising at 2,000 at 68 MPH that VP44 is barely spinning 1,000 RPM's. So even at full redline 3,200 RPM's would be only 1,600 RPM's at the VP44.

Awful burnt looking too being the oil is for sure dark in color. Broke down from heat?

The whole body of the pump is flooded with fuel. The bearing is a bit rough feeling too. The liquid that came out was very pink to red looking. Thank you... I'm still getting pictures and parts line up and functions put together.

Amazingly enough most of the pump is in the distributor head. The 3 sliding pins on the distributor shaft are actually the pump pistons. The distributor head is consider a sealed unit. The cam ring and roller shoes are what pump the pistons inwards. Now we all wondered about how the VP44 could track timing there is a pin on the cam ring that moves the tone wheel sensor as well. Timing piston is controlled by a electronic valve that either adds pressure or releases pressure. There is a very fine screen/filter around the valve. As you seen the timing piston was galled. Yes. There is a vane pump in these pumps. Also took note the owner was running red dye. So more than likely filtration and HFRR was more of issue in this pump.