Mopar1973Man

They are currently on sale if you have a coupon. (For some reason I think I goofed on the price there... ) http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-panel-kit-45-watt-68751.html Here is the inverter I also had a 25% off coupon for it. http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-watt-continuous2400-watt-peak-power-inverter-69659-8890.html As for us we just need a small amount of power but at night using the lights in the RV tend to drain the batteries and the furnace too. So by morning your firing up a generator. But it would be nice to just have the solar charging the batteries up through the day and not have to fire up the generator. Unless needing some serious power. I like to camp out in the woods away from RV parks or campgrounds. What I'm aiming for is to have all my controllers and inverter in the same cabinet with the master fuse panels and such. Then when I need a bit of 120 power I'll have a inverter I can flip on and plug in a short cord to power up stuff. Like its kind of nice to bring along the small TV and DVD player and sit back watch a movie.

I'm on my way of installing solar panels on the RV. These are not going to be roof mounted but free standing. MoparMom and I figure you could just fold up the panels and lay them on the bed while travelling. Right now I'm doing a bit of bench testing and so far I'm very pleased with the 45 watts worth of solar panels. This solar panel kit is from "Harbor Freight" for $139 buck on sale. Then while I was there I picked up a 1200 watt inverter for 120 VAC power. Figuring against typical Amp hours of deep cycle batteries I figure 1200 watts is more than enough. 10 Amps x 120 Volts AC = 1200 Watts = 12 Volts DC x 100 Amps Then figuring common RV deep cycle batteries are roughly 100 Amp hours then you have two batteries so that would give you roughly 2 hours of full 1.2kw power in theory. But we know you can't run a battery totally dead nor will a inverter operate below about 10.5 volts.

Just thinking about this again. I really do have a problem with this. Here is Wild & Free over in ND telling about how great the oil drilling business is and that there is plenty of fuel to go around but just a few states away its "OMG and WTF?!" Like here the price of propane has been the same for years at $3 a gallon. I just bought propane 2-3 days ago and nothing new here.

Electric heater?

Left headlight fuse is powering both light. Right headlight fuse or circuit is dead. Pull the fuse and ohm it out and make sure its 0 ohms. Or test it on voltage and ground your black lead and touch the test pins on the fuse and check for voltage on both sides of the fuse. If power is on one side and not the other then the fuse is blown.

Ok.. One method is pulling the blue & wire plug and the alternator fuse and going for a ride. If the problems stop then the alternator is the issue. Another method is to leave everything hooked up and have the truck fully warmed up and idling and measure the output voltage AC at the alternator BATT terminal on the alternator and the battery NEG. If the AC voltage is below 0.1 Volts AC then your fine. The best method is this. Being you can see for sure how much noise is created.

Just like everything today there is only a small few companies that produce the same part for all dealers. So on quick search I found Gates, Stant, CST and Thomasnet that product automotive thermostats. So Cummins is most likely the exact same thermostat sold by another vendor name but at a reduce cost without the name. So that being said there is no real reason for high dollar Cummins stat being it fails just as well as any other. Being there is only 4 that I can find that produce these then... Chances are they could be the same. So for argument sake the Stant thermostats could be made for NAPA and boxed as such and Cummins take the very same one and marks it up with their name on the box. But who knows?

There was a thread on CF.com about that and a guy posted a picture of both a Cummins thermostat and a NAPA thermostat and they are exactly the same. The only difference is price. Save you money and consider a NAPA as your next one. Typically I change coolant every 30k miles and thermostat at the same time so I've never really had a bad thermostat.

Yeah but here is the catch. +12 Volts -> L & R Head Fuse -> L & R Headlight -> Dimmer Switch (switching grounds) -> Headlight Switch -> Ground So typically if there is a dim light its a head light fuse because the ground circuit will back feed power to the blown fuse side. Fuse have been known to crack and not appear blown and the only way to test them is with a DVM. If it was a bad ground then both light would be dim being the head lights are switch off at the ground not the power.

Remember there is 2 grounds and 1 positive to the stock head socket.

Check the head light fuse? Located in the PDC...

More than likely the debris from the first pump failure is plugging up a passage in either the gear box or hydro-booster and causing a flow issues which is most likely the groaning of the bypass valve internally.

Kind of hard to get a deer whistle to work when you have big ol' bug crammed in it. Or maybe filled up with mud.

According to Bosch #50 is sealed unit. This why there is no listing of the rotor inside or anything else. Now we have... This is a thick steel plate with a plastic backing. So explain this pic... Gotta be rubber or something brittle?

Now that's a Deer Strainer!

Yea... They thought it was the end cap off the distributor part. Here is what's in the distributor head. Here is the part they think is the diaphragm. That thing is a steel plate with a plastic back with a rim to hold the o-ring in. The first thought that comes to mind with diaphragm is a rubber barrier that flexes. This is a steel plate very very solid steel and its not going to CRACK. I would of done it sooner if I didn't have to pay 300-400 for a core pump! Once again give Diesel4Life a big round of applause for sending me that pump to tear apart.

My solution is re-consider your lighting on the truck so you lighting up a wider span of roadway. Hence why both of my trucks have the 100w aircraft lighting. You can spot deer eyes with a bright light if your paying attention. The thing about sliding 4WD or 2WD if it was going to slide its not going to matter. But as for braking forces yes 4WD does seem to prevent sliding for starting but if it does 4WD or 2WD isn't going to change much. But this depends slide direction. Like in your case with being sideways 4WD won't do anything for it. But as for rolling straight the braking action is spread out better. My rule of thumb is if the road is a primary highway and is ploughed I'm not going to worry about 4WD much. Unploughed secondary roads I'm going to use the 4WD more so. But I'm glad wife and you are OK. I tend to go out and play in large parking lots and see what both 4WD and 2WD can do and not do.

Funny... Over on CumminsForum.com they are still trying to figure out where this diaphragm is located at? http://www3.jasperengines.com/blog/2011/12/02/jasper-remanufactures-vp44-diesel-injection-pumps/ A thicker, metal-plated diaphragm is installed to help eliminate low fuel pressure problems within the pump. Perhaps the most common failure on the VP44 is the “216″ code (fuel timing error), and the runnability problems that go with it, due to supply pump issues and low fuel pressure to the injection pump. “The pump diaphragm can crack inside the pump, causing excessive wear on the housing,” says Abrams. “JASPER installs the later-style diaphragm, which is metal-plated and is thicker than the original, to help eliminate these types of failures.” Abrams added, “On each VP44 replacement, JASPER recommends that the fuel supply pump is also replaced in the vehicle to help eliminate that failure.” Funny here is a Bosch reseal kit... No diaphragm in the kit? Hmmm....

I tend to sit back and laugh about it. It seem like all the southern states go into panic mode because no one has a plow truck, people never seen snow, don't know how to drive in it.

Or the simplest yet... Hook it right next to the MAP sensor.

The article page has been updated as well now to show the parts within the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view

Everyone is correct that is the OBDII port. You might pull the 3 screws on the bottom edge of the knee bolster and see if the wires are just zip tied to the ODBII port.

I don't know him...

Picture of the plug would help.

...and who is this guy?