Mopar1973Man

Might also be something wrong with the power valve within the steering box.

APPS sensor doesn't really control idle. When the IVS grounds for idle position then the ECM uses its own internal software to manage idle speed. So even without a APPS sesor present the truck will still start and idle. Basics... Error codes and fuel pressure tested with a mechanical gauge.

Open line flow rates are up to around 500-520 GPH for 1/2" plumbing. (Calculated)

MnTom Windows is too slow to keep up to date.

I still continue to open carry my pistol with me when I leave the house. I will alway carry a weapon with me to defend my family and myself. Where I live the four leggers are more of a issue then in the big cities the two leggers are the issue. So I'll continue to carry and defend myself just as police defend themselves.

Forward back buttons look like old IE style and the rounded tabs looks like Chrome. Then all the icon pile up on the right looks like another IE9 thing.

Bit pricey but I would just get a new compressor and be done with it. Mine never left any trace of freon or oil on the seal but sure enough replace the the compressor and my leak is now gone.

Technically it would. Because the pressure is the same from the VP44 and the orifice is the same from engine to engine so the amount of cc's of fuel would be the same producing 275 HP at the flywheel. I remember reading some where and don't quote me the size difference is 9/10's of a thousandth or 0.0009 from stock to RV275's for hole size.

Now that there is a personal problem not a engine / performance problem. I can't help you with that YabbaDoo...

Actually FireFox has that Internet Explorer and Google Chrome look now. As for the plugin for FireFox either batch should work. Mine I get from a article over on Ubuntu Forums about security. I know this is Ubuntu Linux but the FireFox Browser is the same thing... Worth at least reading over it. http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=510812 http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=671604

Wow. That is impressive. I'd be willing to go down in weight of oil myself if I could get a CI-4 or CJ-4 in a lighter weight. The only thing I see here locally is 15w-40 for diesel oils. Being I buy in 5 gallon buckets it make it even tougher.

Matter of fact that looks just like my little pump I've been using now for about 4 years. Matter of fact I even stopped in the local Chevron station and lined up my freon supply (12 qty case) and he's already needing a o-ring kit done on his Chevy. It got a slow leak and needing to be fixed. Man I love air conditioning but I sure hate to be the guy doing the service. 110-115*F in Riggins, Idaho and engine blowing 190-200*F wind at you while you work. Ugh!

Might if you have a early VP44 truck that is only 215 HP then the RV275 would a +60HP gain.

They only time I can see inverted fridge use is great is while traveling the vehicle can keep the fridge powered off of 12V and no worries about stopping for fuel and turn the fridge off and on.

Running Ranchos on my truck and they get the hell beat out of them. They are about 5 years old now and getting close to 100k worth of miles. Many, many miles of Idaho dirt highways (forestry roads).

Never mind I missed the picture... Still I can run a full month or more on propane and drawing less than 3A for the fridge the batteries would hold up for 11-14 days without any AC power or solar. Yes. I've done this as a test run to see how long it would run.

Do some checking around and find wood stove paint. Like I've got a wood stove and its painted brown and with stands a heck of alot of temperature being the pyrometer daily would be pushed to 1,400*F for at least 5-10 minutes. As for engine paint most of that stuff would just burn off. I would suggest sandblasting the turbine housing and get as much rust off and give it a rough finish that paint could adhere to well.

Hey AH64ID how much DC Amps draw is the fridge taking to run? Curious...

Typically from opening the system and then refilling with freon with putting a vacuum on it to boil the moisture out. I would replace the accumulator and orifice tube. Pull the compressor and dump the oil out and reload with new fresh clean PAG oil. (7.1 ozs - IIRC) flush the rest of the system with AC flush.

No. It's not normal. I gather you got moisture in the system and the orifice tube is most likely starting to plug up. I'm going to assume there is other damage occuring too. Truly the freon should be clear in color or possibly yellowish from possibly a dye pack added. But reddish brown sounds like rusting has occured.

No different than my truck beefer injectors and Edge Comp and went from 16-17 MPG stock to 22-23 MPG AVG and high mark of 27 MPG. Do your homework I bet you can find all kinds of smog related designed parts in that engine possibly gain some MPG from it too. Heck even the 1996 Dodge 1500 I manage to improve the MPG's on it with a Mopar Performance PCM and a intake gasket (huge vacuum leak). Still can reach about 15-17 MPG AVG with it. It's all about learning what the manufacture did to said vehicle to meet EPA requirements. Kind of like 3rd gens with it shorten exhaust cam lobe to make for a in-cylinder EGR event.

In all my years of helping people I never heard of any reports of a VP44 fail because of a wire tap. It's always something else that kills the pump like bad alternator, dirty fuel, poor fuel filter, low fuel pressure, too much injector cleaners (fuel additive), etc. But always love how a rebuilder uses the tapped wire thing to deny warranty claims but attempt to sell pumps for high performance and know that the end user is going to tap the wire.

I'm assuming treated is 520 HFRR standard diesel instead of the 636 HFRR of untreated diesel which was used in the other test.

Unofficially yes. I've gotten two numbers for 128:1 ratio 380 and 420 HFRR... These two numbers I can't absolutely confirm because its was passed down from another person from another person.

Here is the problem... All diesel fuel in the US is about ~520 HFRR score and Bosch requires <450 HFRR to me designed standards. So if your using a anti-get most products tend to increase the HFRR score because they typically use Xylene and other products to prevent paraffin wax from gelling up. So how to keep pour point down and HFRR scores down? This is the biggest issue.