Mopar1973Man

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Done. I managed to tear down the entire pump I can tell you it failed from a P0216 code for sure. The timing cam ring and timing piston where seized up and took a lot to get them out. As for the diaphragm it does NOT exist in a VP44 pump. Just like the exploded view I provided on my article page this pump is a exact copy (except the diagram is 2 piston pump this one 3 piston). So the fuel pressure diaphragm myth is now BUSTED!

Yea... He's right the nose of the body is tore up pretty good and I barely got start tearing it apart. So I've got my camera in the shop and started tearing it apart. It doesn't help when your coming home from a fire fighter class at midnight and checking the web site till almost 1am and then get woke up at 7am with a on rush of phone calls. I'm seriously dragging butt...

We are already discussing with the fire dept about the fire dangers and making plans for getting particular things dealt with being that we figure wildland fires will be the worst thing this year. Unless like Wild & Free said it dumps that wet snow late or it rains through the spring season. Right now I should be whining about the 2-3 foot of snow in my yard.

Your name at the top in the black bar is your User Control Panel.

I found some oil filters just because the name people use them and tend to have drain back problems. Like I've heard a report of AMSOil filters having this issue. The owner was telling me the filter would typically be partial filled at oil change time even after just running the truck. As for Wix, NAPA, and Fleetguard I've not seen that issue. As for subzero operations with petroleum oil (15w-40) and Fleetgaurd filters no issues with delay of oil pressure. Just my

Thank you Diesel4Life... It late tonight being I just got home from my fire meeting as of nearly midnight. I post a bit more in the morning...

Will the member please come forward that sent me the VP44...

Guilty as posted...

I've seen where people get lucky and push the upper pressure well up to 30 and above. Making claims that the VP44 will accept those kind of pressures. Might be true but for how long till something fails? Does anyone have the proper means of diagnosing VP44? Being the factory lift pump came out with 14-15 PSI and adding a mere 5 more to it isn't going to make or break it. But now doubling the pressures you asking for troubles. We already know that stock plumbing and pumps are marginal at best at even keeping 10 PSI and wonder why we have such failures. But rather strange to see industrial ISB engines like for tractors and such rarely have VP44 issues. Makes you think.

It going to be a nasty dry summer just looking at what we have for snow. January 21, 2014 - 9:40am Looking southeast Looking northeast

Remove the turbo and then remove the wastegate motor (spring loaded). Now using a small hammer a penetrating oil tap the arm back and forth till its freed up. Some members here have had good luck doing this and other ended up breaking the arm off trying (seized completely).

Like I just returned from the RV site this morning and there is another thread start where a gent wants to pull with a Ford 1/2 Ton Ecoboost and asking for MPG's. The only thing I stated was consider diesel powerplant it will do better more BTU's per gallon. Boy... OP jumped my post for that one. Seriously I don't see what anyone is gaining in getting smaller and smaller tow rigs and wanting larger and larger RV's. Makes no sense. Especially the common place is Ford Ecoboost with a big 5th wheel. I never forget the experience with Camping World. The first thing the dealer did was sit down and look up the specs of my truck GCWR and GAWR front and rear of the truck. Then did a search of all RV on the lot meeting my price range and weight range. Then proceeded to go from RV to RV. Make sure that you keep a system of listing the GVWR of the trailer and forget the dry weight. Way too many get wrapped up with dry weights (this is only for the manufacture for shipping reasons). Another common is any gas power plant vehicle is to cut 10-15% off of the trailer weight allowance to keep from pushing a engine transmission too hard. But that what I can give for advise for now... Good luck on the venture... You know you'll be more than welcome to advertise your new business here too.

Input shaft is still turning and you using the syncros to attempt to stop the input shaft. This why you having a hard time getting into gear. You might want to look at either the throwout bearing (wore enough that the clutch is dragging) or pilot bearing (wore enough dragging the input shaft). I had the rare one where the springs on the friction disc broke open on me.

P0234 is a stuck wastegate for sure now. MAP sensor is working fine because its seeing over 20 PSI of boost and defueling the engine.

No kidding. (I better not post a picture of mine right now)

I'll find out more about this tomorrow. I gotta head out shopping at the local store and head to my fire meeting tomorrow evening. So I'll get plenty of time to bench test the change.

Yes that is correct for cable assembly. Mine is set up the same way. Be smart and order both cables left and right sides.

MAP sensor is seeing too much boost for too long for P0236. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/166-p0236-map-sensor-too-high-too-long As for the dirty MAP sensor... That's becoming a Internet myth too. I've not pulled either MAP or IAT sensor on over 3 years now with a exhaust brake and not having any issues. No such thing as a dirty MAP sensor. But looking at the code the MAP sensor is working properly but you building way more boost that stock and holding way longer hence the error code.

Once again I found the check ball wedged back into the coils of the spring. I wanted to get a picture by the time I did get the camera the check ball fell out in it own and rolled across the shop floor before I could press the camera button. :banghead: So I got a bit more aggressive this time. I added a new twist to the spring I bent the very end of the spring into a L shape inwards so the tip holds the ball from starting into the coils. Time will tell...

Might not get over boost hard enough to stay below CEL from lighting up. It can do it though...

Which MAP code? P0234, P0236, P0327 or P0238??? Any of the above except P0236 will put it in limp mode. Just like driving with low oil pressure. It won't take long to destroy the injection pump.

We are heading for +40°F weather and no snow on the ground. As for plugging in the truck I typically saw 100-110°F worth of coolant temperature at start up with 750w block heater.

Come come Dave... You know that 300k miles without a picture is rather meaningless...

Is there any error codes if not then the APPS is most likely fine. Typically a APPS error will light up the CEL. What your fuel pressure like while towing?