Mopar1973Man

People are hung up on several things they think are like gasoline engine.

Here is a partition drive. What partition drives do is is separate data logically so it can be two different file format say Linux or Windows. May even just separating data like I've done. There is a performance gain to separate partitions being the index is smaller it quicker to find data. In my layout I moved static stored files like pictures, videos, music and other thing like that away from the system so fragmentation didn't occur which is a big problem for Windows but not on Linux. But keeping the partition is still handy because the static files stay out of the way. As for Linux relax and install it. It will dual boot with Windows very good. Not to mention Linux can see and use all your Windows files. But Windows can't use or even see Linux. So Linux is very universal for OS software.

Kick down cable needs adjustment it sound like...

Just using my stove for example I've got a pyrometer installed about two or so feet above the top of the stove. On my first start I can see at least 1,400 to 1,600*F worth of stove stack temps. I've even gone as far as pulling the gauge out of the stack and the probe is absolutely red hot. So if it just cheap steel with cast damper I bet the heat is enough to soften the steel rod and give you this problem.

Actually your backwards. It sets the IAT to 143*F and retards the timing. The colder the air temp gets the more and more advanced the timing gets. Which with cold air and overly advanced timing gets that heavy knock where when you flip to MPG mode the knock fades away because of the retarded timing. High cetane winter fuel will make it even more pronounced.

Not a problem I've gotten pretty good at doing remote support for Linux now.

Seriously. If you had Linux installed the SMART (Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology) would of warned you long before the drive was dying and given you more than enough warning to backup data before it failed. Like the 250 GB drive on my desk it fail this winter in the shop computer and both BIOS showed the failure and so did Linux at boot time then impending drive failure is going to happen backup now before the drive starts to fail. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T. <- Read more... What is really weird is Microsoft doesn't use SMART technology in Windows software other than the Scan Disk for error but there is no software within Windows to monitor SMART status of the drives unless you purchase the software and install it.

"I've got too much Stuff in my RV!"

Believe it or not retarding timing or preventing excessive advancement from excessive cold air. Cold air tends to hurt MPG's optimal IATtemps for MPG's is about 100-140*F

Believe it or not retarding timing or preventing excessive advancement from excessive cold air. Cold air tends to hurt MPG's optimal IAT temperatures for MPG's is about 100-140*F

NO! Do not adjust the voltage! The voltage is only for the IVS of the APPS nothing more. I would run the diagnostics of the error code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

Me personally would tear it down completely and start over.

There is no proof of excessive pressure blows seals but why take the chance of it happening. You only need enough pressure to keep the overflow valve open. So the suggested pressure is 14-20 PSI. Your not going to increase flow much more... Return is much much smaller...

I would check both fuel pressure and error codes and figure out what is causing limp mode? Over Boost?

Interesting. I really don't have a answer. Is your neutral and hot on the right sides of the outlet? (Shooting from the hip)

Don't even have a damper...

Opps my bad... Trailer rating is 13,400 and 20,000 for GCW.

Very very rare we stay in RV parks. If we do its for a short period of maybe 2 days tops. The rest of the time the RV used solely out in the forest of Idaho so I'm really not to worried about filters and such. Typically 50 gallons of water will cover us for 3 days tops. That getting a least 1 shower a piece between MoparMom and myself. On my truck I've got a trailer rating of 13,600# or GCWR of 20,000#. I tend to watch that more so. I'm finally getting the RV setup the way I like it. She bit heavy but I'm liking it. I'll go back through the cabinets and clean up a bit more.

Hua?? DAP $995 NEW PSG - http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/sovp44.htm Vulcan $999 NEW PSG - http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm BC better knock the prices down lot more to even come close. Also why would I buy a used PSG unit when I can buy NEW PSG unit for less! BC - USED PSG $1196 ??? http://bluechipdiesel.com/products.html

DAP sells "tapped" injection pump warranties...

Also check for proper gaps. I've seen some GM products with gaps as large as .065 inch. Even the 96 Dodge I think is .040 IIRC.

Jasper's page I think is way out of date. The diaphragm is no long rubber and its a harden steel plate. Bosch requires all electronics to be replaced now. I know that DAP and Vulcan Performance both sell only new PSG's. So most of these things are now nothing more than Internet myths and tales.

5th on flats. 4th on grades.

I would ditch the Smarty at that point tap the pump. Smarty it bound by the limits of the ECM and can't exceed that. But tapping the pump with a external module it can calculate fuel table beyond the limits of the ECM and continue well above. 100HP injectors I bet you could run a good 3x3 or 4x3 without much problems which would still be just about the same level of power I'm producing. Might have to tweak the sublevel for best smoke versus lag. That's another thing the Smarty can't do is smoke control very well.

Add my 2 cents... 1. Boost under 5 PSI and EGT under 600*F. (At least 24V's) 2. Find a travel path that less stop and go even if its slightly longer. I'll go a couple blocks over knowing I have less stop signs or stop lights. 3. Correctly air up your tire using the formula. You get the best of both worlds good tire wear and good MPG's. 4. Something about that 2k mark when your just slightly below it you'll do better. 5. Absolutely! Don't add more rotational mass or rolling resistance. Like another gent told me for every 10 pound of tire is like adding 100 pounds to the frame. 6. Most modules and programmers do help being CR's are very retarded in timing. 7. Dragging brakes should be checked every tire rotation which should be done while doing your oil change. 8. Levelling, lifts, etc. Measuring out your frontal area is the area of drag the your vehicle will produce so the more it stands up in the wind the slower you have to go to cut wind drag.