Mopar1973Man

Get a power steering gear box rebuild kit and go through the box. Not to hard to rebuild. Just all the BB's for the screw shaft are a real PITA to get back in the box. So be careful they tend to come rolling out all over the place.

Not worry about that either. I had both my 1973 Dodge Charger and the 1978 Dodge Magnum XE parked under that tree for many many years the only spots that leak sap was cut limbs. So when I did my pruning I made sure to prune all the way back to the main trunk.

Nice to see the family helping each other out!

Really the truth is the original contractor that built the house back in 1962 put that outlet out under the tree so ever winter for Christmas you could decorate the tree with lights and Christmas decorations. But as you can see the tree is huge now and the rock was just a bonus. I've been wanting to create a good spot for the RV for quite some time and this worked out totally awesome. Guarded from the wind, snow to a degree, and the harsh summer sun. I plan on leveling the spot more and adding some road mix to make the ground firm. Now I can store the RV in a level spot and fire up the fridge and keep it cold if need be.

Current bushes don't grow very well in Idaho during the winter but Voltage Rocks do work well even in the cold winters of Idaho. But they are hard to find.

Well Gang. I created me a awesome RV storage spot under the edge of my spruce tree and guarded most of the summer sun from the south. It took a bit of tree pruning and ground clean up but I now have a awesome spot for the RV and no longer have to worry about the RV baking in the summer sun and moving all around the yard and killing the grass. etc. I still can have both solar power and city power here being the electric rock is under the tree. Solar is a bit limited but better than nothing.

I might be true we need the pour point correction but all these product advertise improvement in HFRR score. How can it when there is no lubricant in the product? As for pour point depressants this why I first suggest investigating you local fuel supplier and then properly adding the PPD to the fuel not willy nilly dumping it in when its not required.

Remember these trucks will start and run without a lift pump. Even with zero fuel pressure the vane pump in the VP44 is just enough to keep the engine going. Might not run fast but it will still drive on city streets. So this method doesn't work very well. Best to make the truck not start at all by disabling the starter solenoid or the VP44 power supply.

Take any oil you want and place it in a open container. Say a small amount of 2 cycle oil in a Pepsi bottle cap. Then take any other product you want and pour equal amount in a second Pepsi bottle cap and leave it out for 7 days and watch. Answer: The oil will remain oil till the end of time. But 90% of all fuel additives will evaporate and leave a tar or sticky substance behind. True lubricants don't evaporate.

Still can use it. Like all summer in Riggins, ID it's about 100-110*F so I've got desert type heat here too.

MnTom is right... Another awesome suggestion.

Awesome picture. A little bit of Africa on the Mopar1973Man.Com site Wow!

Yes. You can but what go is it? Pull the horn relay and plug it in and will start again. What I suggest is placing a kill switch in the cab that can be reach from the drivers sitting position without alerting anyone that there is a kill switch in the vehicle. You don't want to be bending way down or un-naturally digging under the dash. I would suggest placing it like under the break release handle where its natural to release your brakes but flick a switch at the same time. Edge of the driver seat etc. As for wiring the kill switch... Notice on the fuel pump relay in the upper right corner there is a ground lead (Black pin 85) which comes from the fuel pump relay. Now you can CUT this wire and then run the wire into the cab to a SPST toggle switch that is wired to ground. When the switch is ON the truck will start and run. When the switch is off then the truck is disabled and the P1689 code will be set if anyone tries. Being its a single ground wire you can tuck it back into the loom for the most part and hide it for most of the run back into the truck and no one will know. Another wild trigger I heard about is the cigarette lighter. Unplug the wires to the cigarette light socket and wire your ground and fuel pump ground lead to it. As long as the cigarette light is pushed in the truck will run. Take the cigarette light with you and she is dead as a mackerel.

Transformers only work with AC power. DC has to be converted to AC the stepped up then converted back to DC by diodes.

If you smelling fuel I can bet you got a fuel leak issue (bleed off your prime). The common spot to check is the return banjo at the back of the head and the return tee at the back of the block.

I know like our old Military Fire Trucks are 24V system and we break out of the the batteries with 12V for all the electronics. But trying to go from 12V to 24V is tougher yet because of the requirements of the truck. Even if you did there is no way for the alternator to keep up with 24V system (12V alternator). So the easiest plan is getting a 12V to 24V converter box like Wild and Free suggest.

That at 200:1 ratio. 128:1 ratio which I use is actually a lower number unofficially somewhere around 380-420 HFFR.

When you get them back make sure to follow the torque pattern and instructions on torquing the heads back on. Typically like a 3 stage process (or might be?).

On the CR engines usually the owner get to change one then in about 1-2 weeks later another go bad. So either do it all now and get it over with or constantly buying one injector and taking valve cover and all the other stuff off. Usually a lot of owner figure they got the bad injector and the next bad injector starts to fail and don't know it now start washing rings out on that cylinder. This why the life span of CR engine are typically very low.

Welcome to the family...

That's what I'm waiting for too is to hear back from http://www.idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/index.php and see when they get a Dyno event going. I want to get some baseline numbers again since my last run was in 2007.

That's just wrong your first picture of a used head gasket in the box and the second with a torn gasket. I'm glad someone step up to the plate and deals with stuff like that yet. I've gotten computer parts in the mail that have been used man talk about being pissed off. Even for personal stuff it sure sucks when your time line is riding on the parts.

The only limit is you should see more than 3 cycles in a minute. (Sanden Compressor specs) But if you compressor is oiled up and low side pressure is above 35 PSI then you should be fine. As the evaporator does cool it will drop the low side pressure and start cycling but low freon cycling is bad for the clutch. This is why I tend to slightly over-charge the system to prevent compressor cycling and prevent clutch damage. Solid lock compressor is more efficient than a cycling compressor. Remember when compressor cycles off the hot freon is rushing back to the evaporator and now it going to reduce cooling performance.

Nice job...