Mopar1973Man

Alternator typically is the the cause of all torque converter lockup issues. I was shock with Pepsi about the brushes being wore out but totally forgot about them being a cause of AC noise. I've now heard of 2 cases of alternator brushes being a cause and rest of them tend to be diode issues.

VP44 idle speeds are controlled by the ECT sensor. So the warmer the coolant temperature the lower the idle speed. Sorry, but just lower idle speeds don't mean there is a problem with the VP44.

Here is a article on how to do it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/1598-diy-pinion-seal-replacement-dana-80/

Man... I would do anything for weights in the 6,800 to 6,900 pound range.

From what he told me it was tap water. Both trucks where done with tap water one with problems and the other without a issue?

How about a loose track bar joint? This could be at either the rubber end or the ball joint end.

Heat shield can be out of steel or aluminium. I use a old Idaho Road Sign to make mine. As for the hood liner doesn't matter I pulled mine off the 96 years ago keep the mice from eating it. Also slightly warmed air doesn't hurt for MPG's reasons. Optimal is 100-140*F at the IAT sensor.

Glad your safe W&F...

The higher octane is going to work better for high compression engines with heavy timing advancement. Higher the octane the slower the fuel burns more like diesel fuel and also contains more BTU's. Like I've got a Goldwing under my desk with excessively high compression pressure (the heads where milled excessively) and the only way to keep it from overheating is using double shot of 104 Octane boost.

Never seen a trailer towed at 45 MPH nor have I seen anyone along the road checking lug nuts every hundred miles.

MoparMom, Diesel and myself with some tools and stuff in the bed is right at 7,600 pounds.

I would do 1 gallon of antifreeze and the rest 50/50 mix. In all the cooling system I've drained I've always gotten close 5 gallons out of a truck. So that means there is roughly 1 gallon of water in the block.

Remember all grounds for the ECM, PCM and VP44 are the actual battery cables. The body ground that you see under the hood is for auxiliary things like lights, horn, etc.

Yuck. Time to get flush that is a absolute mess. I'm still stumped about how that even happened.

It better volume but longevity of the pump is rather short. Watch your pressures and watch for leaking fuel.

It was shortly after Pureflow changed hands that things started to change and go down hill. Like the custom fuel system which was a roll of hose and a bag of JIC push lock fittings. This was done away with for new improved quick connect system that forced a owner to mounting in one place. Then the motors got cheaper and cheaper with seal leaks and burning up. Then the last one I seen is the mounting brackets are no longer steel but a plastic. Sorry to say AirDog/Raptor quality when down hill and still not turning around anytime soon that I've seen.

You want to tow at nearly prefect level. This will equalize the weight across the tires of the axles and wear tires evenly. I tend to agree about tongue weight it seems either too low or too high it feel heavy. But can't comment on pin weight being the trailer is design differently.

Just about everything is made in China anymore. If it was me, I would go to the local NAPA store grab one and get that trans stuffed back in the truck.

Both are being managed there a 4WD sense lead back to the ABS unit to change it calculation of the braking force.

I don't know what to say to it at all. There is mistakes I see your in-laws made and mistakes that the dealer made. Personally I would of never left the lot till someone else inspected the vehicle either by you or a mechanic (other than the dealer). The only thing I can see here is that maybe the dealer is pull a low blow and filing a lost title on your in-laws vehicle. Because the vehicle is worthless without a title. Can't even crush one without a title.

Here is a few pictures I shot of looking at the Big Salmon River heading toward Riggins, Idaho. I'm up the mountain heading towards Florence, ID (old abandon mining town) which we never made it to because of the snow in the high country yet. Riggins, ID was almost 90*F but we played in the snow for the day. Got video to process yet...

I'm hitched up and ready to go out and play today. More to come when I get home...

Because the magnet on the older sensor is weaker now and the new sensor is stronger so the AC wave that is produced is different. More here too... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

14-15 PSI Starter Bump 12-13 PSI idle 9-11 PSI WOT 35 GPH Pump 75 GPH Plumbing (6mm ID) without banjo bolts.

ABS codes are typically read with a DRBIII tool and can't be read with typical OBDII code readers. No. It should reset at the first few hundred feet. So basically you have a speed mismatch and one axle is running a different speed than the other so the lights remain on. Just like I said you typically have to replace is match pairs. Very very rare do you get luck and just replace one sensor.