Mopar1973Man

Well first off what is the GVWR rating of the trailer? Then what is the current weight of the trailer? Do the tire meet or exceed the weight of the trailer GVWR? Then look at speed how fast are you planing on traveling with the trailer in tow? What is the speed rating of the tires? All these question will make or break the performance of a ST tire on a trailer.

Few limitation with the site on mobile but you can still operate the majority of the site without Tapatalk. The one limitation I know of is the file uploading is not available on mobile skin so you would have to switch over to full view and then upload your file then flip back to mobile.

Tapatalk no longer required. The site has it own mobile skin and doesn't require a plugin to display mobile styled pages.

The lift pump should only run 25 seconds if you bump the starter. Not all ECM will fire the lift pump with the first key turn.

Interesting on your tire failures. I still wonder about speed rating being a factor in the failures.

Just drive normally. Accelerate normally. Use your cruise control when you can and keep your speed down. Nothing more.

Here we go again the infamous diaphragm which doesn't exist. I would like a good picture of this "diaphragm" and his test bench.

For older ones there was this bug of levels crossing. Say you set 4x1 and 5x5 then set for main level 5 and it would be really doggy. But now set 4x5 and 5x5 and go back to a main level of 5 again now you got a animal.

What surprises me is I know we have some military folks here I figured they would bounce in and answer this one.

AH64ID are you going to place a steel pan under the batteries? Even being a seal battery or AGM I would still place a steel plate or pan under the batteries for floor protection and to possibly capture any leaking electrolyte which is very rare for most sealed batteries but might happen.

Now looking back at this I wondered if a dead blow hammer would of freed it without breaking the cover?

Another way to just remove all 6 injectors and have them pop tested. As for Hex0rz oil drop method it does work but if you see it you best change oil too. Also you still don't know which injector(s) is causing this problem which removal and pop testing will do. But as cheap as injectors are it best to replace them all. P0645 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/206-p0645-ac-clutch-relay-circuit P0500 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal P1291 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/212-p1291-no-temperature-rise-seen-from-intake-heaters

For the first 3-4 years was 5x5. (Maxed out!) Then after installing +50HP injectors I found 5x3 was optimal and nearly smokeless and that when I beat my previous record 25.3 MPG with 26.12 MPG (ScanGauge record was 27.2 MPG).

I look at it this way as long as there is no liquid in any pipes then it will never freeze. Because if air freezes we have new problem. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_air The boiling point of liquid air is approximately 78 K (-195 °C)(-319 F), and it freezes at approximately 58 K (-215 °C)(-355 F)

Funny how time will literally weld a part on the vehicle for you.

Pressure gauges I say mechanical. Temperature gauges I say electric.

I've heard of a lot of people doing this but you could just replace the o-rings too. It's a square cut o-ring from what I've heard and Cummins does stock them.

Just got another phone call about a dead Assassin pump that didn't work for very long the owner gave up and went to a AirDog 165 and now fighting the pressure up and down swings of a adjustable regulator of the AD 165.

White smoke is a sign of retarded timing. Should be aa P0216 code or maybe a injector issues like a cracked tip?

With the cold temperature up here I've pink anti-freeze turn solid but didn't damage any plumbing. I entered my RV the first year of owning it that winter at about -10*F and the system was professionally winterized and poked a stick at the p-trap in the tub and the anti-freeze was rock solid. So from this point I've continued to just blow the system out. Both the water system and the p-traps.

Here you go. Main Levels This is how much maximum fuel and timing given. 1 - 40 HP 2 - 60 HP 3 - 80 HP 4 - 100 HP 5 - 120 HP Sublevels This is how fast your going to get the fuel and timing in relationship to boost. 1 - 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 2 - 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 3 - 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost 4 - Some extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost 5 - Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost 1-3 are de-fuel setting for controlling smoke. 4-5 are power modes.

Does you gauge rise slowly to position or snap to pressure?

P0215 and P1689 are injection pump problems with the electronics. P0380 and P0382 is a grid heater issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

Here is my collection of Certified Bosch rebuilders... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders I've dealt with Vulcan Performance and Diesel Auto Power both and have good pumps. (Industrial Injection).

I tend to agree double check your fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. Electric gauges are know to die of water hammer pulses beating the sender to death. Most people don't protect their gauges so the elctric gauges will fail without warning to the driver. What's really bad is the gauge typically fails to higher pressure not to ZERO like you figure it would. So most people drive blindly thinking they have fuel pressure but the gauge is wrong.