Mopar1973Man

Wow. That is impressive. I'd be willing to go down in weight of oil myself if I could get a CI-4 or CJ-4 in a lighter weight. The only thing I see here locally is 15w-40 for diesel oils. Being I buy in 5 gallon buckets it make it even tougher.

Matter of fact that looks just like my little pump I've been using now for about 4 years. Matter of fact I even stopped in the local Chevron station and lined up my freon supply (12 qty case) and he's already needing a o-ring kit done on his Chevy. It got a slow leak and needing to be fixed. Man I love air conditioning but I sure hate to be the guy doing the service. 110-115*F in Riggins, Idaho and engine blowing 190-200*F wind at you while you work. Ugh!

Might if you have a early VP44 truck that is only 215 HP then the RV275 would a +60HP gain.

They only time I can see inverted fridge use is great is while traveling the vehicle can keep the fridge powered off of 12V and no worries about stopping for fuel and turn the fridge off and on.

Running Ranchos on my truck and they get the hell beat out of them. They are about 5 years old now and getting close to 100k worth of miles. Many, many miles of Idaho dirt highways (forestry roads).

Never mind I missed the picture... Still I can run a full month or more on propane and drawing less than 3A for the fridge the batteries would hold up for 11-14 days without any AC power or solar. Yes. I've done this as a test run to see how long it would run.

Do some checking around and find wood stove paint. Like I've got a wood stove and its painted brown and with stands a heck of alot of temperature being the pyrometer daily would be pushed to 1,400*F for at least 5-10 minutes. As for engine paint most of that stuff would just burn off. I would suggest sandblasting the turbine housing and get as much rust off and give it a rough finish that paint could adhere to well.

Hey AH64ID how much DC Amps draw is the fridge taking to run? Curious...

Typically from opening the system and then refilling with freon with putting a vacuum on it to boil the moisture out. I would replace the accumulator and orifice tube. Pull the compressor and dump the oil out and reload with new fresh clean PAG oil. (7.1 ozs - IIRC) flush the rest of the system with AC flush.

No. It's not normal. I gather you got moisture in the system and the orifice tube is most likely starting to plug up. I'm going to assume there is other damage occuring too. Truly the freon should be clear in color or possibly yellowish from possibly a dye pack added. But reddish brown sounds like rusting has occured.

No different than my truck beefer injectors and Edge Comp and went from 16-17 MPG stock to 22-23 MPG AVG and high mark of 27 MPG. Do your homework I bet you can find all kinds of smog related designed parts in that engine possibly gain some MPG from it too. Heck even the 1996 Dodge 1500 I manage to improve the MPG's on it with a Mopar Performance PCM and a intake gasket (huge vacuum leak). Still can reach about 15-17 MPG AVG with it. It's all about learning what the manufacture did to said vehicle to meet EPA requirements. Kind of like 3rd gens with it shorten exhaust cam lobe to make for a in-cylinder EGR event.

In all my years of helping people I never heard of any reports of a VP44 fail because of a wire tap. It's always something else that kills the pump like bad alternator, dirty fuel, poor fuel filter, low fuel pressure, too much injector cleaners (fuel additive), etc. But always love how a rebuilder uses the tapped wire thing to deny warranty claims but attempt to sell pumps for high performance and know that the end user is going to tap the wire.

I'm assuming treated is 520 HFRR standard diesel instead of the 636 HFRR of untreated diesel which was used in the other test.

Unofficially yes. I've gotten two numbers for 128:1 ratio 380 and 420 HFRR... These two numbers I can't absolutely confirm because its was passed down from another person from another person.

Here is the problem... All diesel fuel in the US is about ~520 HFRR score and Bosch requires <450 HFRR to me designed standards. So if your using a anti-get most products tend to increase the HFRR score because they typically use Xylene and other products to prevent paraffin wax from gelling up. So how to keep pour point down and HFRR scores down? This is the biggest issue.

Also have the alternator checked for AC noise.

So like I had +40HP RV275's then stepped up to +50HP Vulcan Performance injectors I had to quit running 5x5 (RV275's) and drop to 5x3 (+50HP) for +10HP gain. The +50HP injectors are way smokey from the RV275 which you could control rather well. Still even towing I still leave the Edge Comp on level 5 and not turn it down the EGT's are very well in check even coming back over Whitebird Grade at 7%. Remember I'm still running 3" stock exhaust pipe.

Would be willing to start another thread on that part? I'm sure there is others here that would like to know how to do the mod to the valve body.

Passenger side battery does have ground leads going back into the wiring. (But not confirmed 100% what it ties too). http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

Sad the head gasket had to blow out on you. I agree with the guys do you homework and research and find out if there was any weakness or issues with parts and correct them now before buying more stock OE part that might cause issues later again. But I would upgrade everything I could. Hmmm... Heads are off you should take the time and slip a beefy cam in it.

Welcome to the family Nuke. I'm sure there are a few people around here to give you a hand with the steering gear box. As for rolling coal everyone wants to roll a little bit of smoke now and then if you didn't you wouldn't be human. But seriously we all have to keep than in check too. So enjoy the site and the other family members.

Looking at the pictures of your roof in the other photos and these I would say you roof is getting rather wore out and won't last too much longer. There is a roof coating you could treat the roof again with to extend the life of the rubber. I'm going to be getting some this summer and re-doing mine to keep the roof as long as possible. I've only had one leak in the corner of the slide (Eternabond tape lifted) so it weeped into the corner and the wall has a nice patch of wavy wallpaper now. Only about 3x4 inches. Now all you got to do is reassemble the interior right?

Paid $8 bucks to get the truck wash in Lewiston all hand washed and then rinsed and blow dried. Still got filthy coming back home in rain and snow showers. Hence even this morning there is snow on the ground just above us. (Ugh!)

Firefox here too... Ad Block Plus No Script Better Privacy Click & Clean Works like magic no spam emails, no ad banners form places I've been, no popup windows, no tracking from Youtube and clean the browser up with one click. I love visiting CF without logging in to the site because even then the site is completely stripped of all ads and popups. CF.com http://www.webpagetest.org/result/140428_87_NE7/ M73M.com http://www.webpagetest.org/result/140428_DN_NK3/ I always work to provide the best User Experience...

Good ol' Potlatch paper mill. Ya it stinks but believe it or not we must of had the wind in own favor. Most of the time we were there it really didn't smell to bad. http://www.spokesman.com/blogs/hbo/2012/jan/10/duroc-its-too-bad-lewiston-smells/