Mopar1973Man

I've seen several of those. Hate to rub noses in this... But.... That is a sign of owner abuse and lack of vehicle inspection which should occur during you typical oil change. You should be rotating tire at your oil change while all 4 tires are off you should take the few seconds and look at the brake pads.

Mothballs work better in enclosed spaces that are fairly air tight.

I just got a PM from him he's still with us just got personal issues going on...

Your not winning...

Ummm... I don't think I've got the guts to lick that tape either.

Thermostat bulb down. Typically mark on which side up or down. Bolt on the thermostat cover no sealant required. I typically put a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads.

It would be nice to have current weights of both the truck and trailer. (Fully loaded). Me personally found that a Edge Comp module and small injector like RV275's or +50HP are very controllable. Even with the Edge Comp on 5x3 the EGT's are controllable and gives good performance. I'm still running BHAF, Straight pipe 3" exhaust and a HX35 turbo. I typically gross out at 17,000# but that's a far cry from your trailer weight. This why I was asking for current weights with water and everything.

Even a Vulcan Big Line kit and Stock pump is better...

If there is any Scotchlocks make sure to repair the wires properly solder and shrink tube and get rid of the Scotchlocks.

That where a good part of my waste oil goes is to lighting the yard trash and getting it burned off. Here is the results of burning WEO or ATF... What your looking at is ash build up on the injectors.

I wouldn't use WEO for fuel any longer being that engine oil has compound like anti-scorching, ash content is up and other things added to the engine oil. The amount of carbon in the oil is also bad too. So if it was me I would just send the waste oil to a collection site. Out here in Idaho most collection sites are picked up by people use for waste oil heaters. But I don't suggest using for fuel.

Pump is most likely starting to wear out. But I would verify the fuel pressure is up to snuff and the fuel meets the lubricity requirements of Bosch (<450 HFRR) which today's US fuel is typically ~520 HFRR so it does cause more wear.

Update... I called him again and also sent a email to him... Starting to get a bit worried about him...

I'm also running a Donaldson pre-filter water separator but also kept the stock filter with a Fleetguard filter in the stock can.

Welcome to the family Hodap56... Make yourself at home there is a lot of helpful folks here that will get you over your bind.

Torque management is nothing more than ECM monitoring the ABS computer over the CCD network for road speed and keep the throttle defuelled till you reach roughly 25 MPH and then opens up to full fuelling of the ECM. This prevents the engine from producing excessive torque on lower gears to prevent transmission damage.

Fuse F in the power distribution box under the hood. It should be a 20A fuse.

I would still solder and shrink tube all of it. LED light are more durable to shock and bouncing that a trailer does and won't blow out LED...

I would think that bad wiring would of tossed a injector code. That's my thought its going to be compression related being there isn't any codes.

Well I went to the Fireman’s Appreciation Dinner on Thursday night and was the second in line for the most service hours for the year of 2013. My buddy Kelly Hinkley was top on the list at 257 service hours I had 235 service hours. So we both got hoodies with our name on the front and service hours and the fire dept logo on the back. I'll wear it proudly... At the same time I bought my Chief a dress cap all in white so next time we have a formal get together he can dress up for the event. So it was quite the event for appreciation dinner.

Thankful enough those thing don't happen where I live. But really nasty lightning storms can and do happen here. Some are rather spooky to watch.

I've seen some really bad things happen with both Smarty and Superchips where it left a vehicle disabled and people calling me for a fix. Everything from damaged OBDII port from all the socketing of the programming cord, to the programming cord being damaged creating a bad flash, too weak/bad batteries creating the same thing again. Just a few of the many phone calls I've gotten from people regarding programmers. Once this occurs the only thing you can do is tow it do a dealer have the OBDII port fixed and stock flash put back put back to the truck. Even the early 98.5 to 99 where highly known to blow the ECM's with because of design weakness of the PROM that wouldn't tolerate the flashing. Just things I've learn of the many years of answering phones.

Basically equal to stock for MPG's again and gained power. So you might see 16-18 MPG roughly on average. What your looking to do is shorten the pulse length but keeping a good tight nozzle hole that atomizes fuel really good. The larger the nozzle the larger the droplet and more heat required to convert liquid fuel to vapor to burn. Liquid fuel will not burn nor ignite. There is only one large injector I know of that is claiming best spray pattern of all but its only for the CR engines which is the BBI Injectors.

Injector lines get tighten first then the injector hold down get tighten. Also double check to see if debris is caught in the seat where the line meets the crossover tube.

Huh? Stock injectors. Your fine yet for turbo even with the RV275's you still fine. Even with my +50HP injectors its still very controllable for EGT's. The problem is that people try to tow at the same speed as a empty truck. This where things go wrong. You need to gear down and slow down a bit on grades. Even out here in Idaho I tow most grades in 4th gear (5 speed) without any problems EGT's wise as long as I'm at my torque curve peek. (1,900 to 2,100 RPM's)