Mopar1973Man

Doesn't matter what coolant you use the pH level will start out near a 7 pH. Then with time the pH level will shift and change to corrosive nature either acidic lower in pH number 0-6.9 or basic when it rises from 7.1-14. Either way and no matter what brand of coolant it should be flushed out and changed at a proper interval. I see it all so common a shop test for boil/freeze point but never check the pH level of the coolant till the coolant has rotted the guts of the engine and turn the coolant rusty brown. Now its way too late...

So for you it might be a good idea to follow ISX injector cleaning video about every 100k miles or so. Being a 12V is so easy you could even do it more often. The only change I know to his cleaning method I like is using carburetor dip and it all wipes off. Just make sure to take all rubber off the parts.

Check out this article. http://www.businessinsider.com/conservatives-purposely-making-cars-spew-black-smoke-2014-7

Boy those nozzle where filthy. The first pic and the upper injector you can clearly see the build up around the spray nozzle. I'm sure it was interfering with quality of spray. Need to hitch up more and get some pyrometer temps up and cook those clean. Or that's right Florida don't have any big mountains...

Yeah that true... But few different things there is much much more heat in the cylinder head and the backing plate of the rotor is much much tighter fit than cross over tube. Hard to see it but the plastic lip comes all the way around the outside filling the void. It just the whole cracked diaphragm is out of date for the most part. What I've found on the hard starting is excessive cranking pressure. The lift pump should be modulated at 7-12 PSI during cranking. If greater than about 14-15 PSI hard starting occurs because of excessive advanced timing. This why the stock lift pump is modulated 50% duty cycle to reduce lift pump pressure during starting. Problem is most people get carried away with running pressure that they create the starting issue.

Neither will happen. Plastic is most likely never going to break being its backed up with harden steel metal disc molded to it. O-rings typically would last a very long time before failure being it never moves. So the whole cracked diaphragm is all a Internet myth now. Here is all the guts... Mine you all parts are harden steel. Here is the rotor unit.

I knew your going to say that. Even a small change in injector sizes makes a big impact on performance.

Most likely blocked air flow or poor fan clutch. Fan clutch should lock up tight by about 208-210*F. I pulled many grades with EGT's around 1,100-1,200*F but always max'ed out the coolant temp at about 206-210*F. The face of radiator could be plugged with mud, oily residue from the crankcase vent, etc.

They also have been known to destroy fuel BTU content to keep people buying more and more fuel filling the pockets of the oil companies. Higher the cetane the lower the BTU's so in other words the higher the cetane the lower the MPG's.

Correct there isn't any diaphragm. This is a harden steel plate with a plastic back to hold the o-ring. The days of diaphragms are long gone.

This isn't exactly what you looking for but... http://www.compactmembrane.com/literature/DieselEngineNOxreductionviaNEApdf.pdf

Hey gang be smart about fireworks please... I was just called out to for a grass fire where a car traveling down the road and one of the passengers was shooting fireworks out the window. Never the less it started a grass fire thankfully for the quick actions of the dispatcher and call both Salmon River Rural and USFS they beat us to the punch and had it put out in a quick order. I'm going to be on edge and standing by the radio for the evening. Even my neighbor is throwing a party. As a matter of fact we got to break in the new Chief's truck today with that fire call...

So Tracy what don't you do? Very impressive job there... Wow!

Like myself I'm back off and running again this morning. Weather here has been hot (nearly 100*F here) and dry. I'm running up to the Fire Chief's place to work on a fire truck and deliver the extrication equipment for that truck. We are hoping to put that truck into service really soon. Like last night we did a extrication refresher last night being we are having all the vehicle accidents locally. I need to finish up get my firewood split and stacked so I can start doing late evening firewood runs. Plenty to do and plenty to prepare for winter.

Well I'm gong to spend my 4th working on a fire truck trying to get ready for fire season. I've got a truck load of extrication equipment in the back of the truck and have to deliever it to the fire chief placee tomorrow morning and finish the plumbing on the new Chief's truck.

Typically like 5/8" IIRC...

It can be blocked off without any ill effects.

Like myself I grew up with a 1973 Dodge Charger SE with a 400 CID rebuilt a 383 CID and then beefed up the trans and drove that car for over 300,000 miles when I sold it. I'm just waiting for something to come along and kill off the whole muscle car thing again it happen back with the oil embargo I'm sure it will happen again.

I'm just saying test them to rule out any injector issues. This why I'm just suggest the test so we can rule out causes of why its smoking. You might just replace them and not gain anything or make the problem worse. This why testing is best before just through money and parts at any problem.

Crawl under the truck and check the fender skirt and the fender mountings. You might find the fender is torn loose from the cab. Might notice the fender to door gap is a bit weird. Also check the body mounts to the frame for problems.

I suggested that too... But the owner has tried some other kind of spray glue as well. Never told me the name of the stuff.

Cow Chow or Horse Chow. Just bring them to Idaho lots of grass land to munch on...

That's all I do it rip it out and just replace the gasket on the cover. As for heat shield not required either. Just keep 14-20 PSI of fuel pressure and fuel flow will cool the VP44.

This is just a traveler going home to Las Vegas, NV and was having troubles. As for alignment that was one of the thing I kept after the owner as he was installing the boot again and making sure everything was absolutely clean and free of oil. Light black coating of oil in the discharge of the turbo too.

Last night a neighbor called up asking me to help him out with a Ford Powerstroke with a boost boot that keep blowing off the mouth of turbo. His stock boot was blown and shredded on the one end. The after market boot was a bit different length but it did fit. For some reason it would blow that one off too in about 5 miles. Tow a 5th wheel trailer GVWR for the trailer was close to 15,000 pounds. Also running big 35" tires as well. Edge Juice set to stock and running about 15-20 PSI of boost climbing the canyon. I figure I would ask about it to see if anyone else learned a answer to this weird problem?