Mopar1973Man

Well there is a another solution, spray the underside of your truck with old waste engine oil from your oil changes. This should give you some protection from oxidation.

That's how one of our wildland fire start was high wind gust caught a long span of wire swinging and arced. Everyone in Whitebird, ID seen the brief flash off and on of the power. (Clue.) Like this morning low on the weather display on my desk shows 62*F as a low from last night and already heading up to 64*F at 8am. It 54% humidity here I've got the sprinkler running all night for swap cooler effect since we really don't have A/C here at the house. Not the last few week the temp at the house here has been close to 100*F (96-98*F). The elevation at home is 2,800 ft. At Lindy's shop its right at 1,900 feet. Woot! I get today off and head for McCall, ID to get groceries for the house. Need lunch supplies for work. So I know I'll get to see 5,200 ft elevation temperatures.

The owner works for the local EMS services so I'm assuming most of this was for light, radio, etc. No. I didn't go digging to figure it all out I just needed to re-crimp the master power lead for the truck to start. Nothing was fused every thing was hooked directly to the battery. Kind of scary.

Power is supplied for the Blue wire from Red/White wire 20A fuse. It most likely has some sort of switch action inside the PCM to cut the power when the key is off.

Yea. It only takes a bit a of dust and a bit of water to make mud. Then add a bit of road salt for oxidizer. Won't take long to eat the bolts away being the muds hold moisture and the road salt will continue to eat as long as the moisture is there. I had this very same problem YEARS ago on a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and a U-bolt broke on me. I had to have custom made u-bolts to fix that old truck. After seeing that and seeing the axle design never changed I keep rinsing out the bottom plate. No problems.

Yea AirDog's are not what they once were. As for FASS I tend to still favor the twin filtered FASS over the single.

http://www.scangauge.com/support/upgrade/

Don't have that issue even with all the Idaho road salt used. When I wash my truck I take the extra time to rinse out under the body and flush out little places like the axle base where the u-bolts nut up.

Sad to say I've got a true first line SGII. Software version 1.00 there has been lots of updates. Free updates only if I can provide a receipt, but mine is long gone.

AirDog 150. Fuel pressure is 17-18 at idle and about 16 PSI at WOT.

In a pinch you could do a old school regulator but be warned it will not charge the same as the temperature controlled PCM. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/134-voltage-regulator-mod

Field lead have to be tested unhooked. Because the alternator field is nothing more than a short. So now the blue wire should be 12V (POSITIVE) and the green wire should be a variable GROUND.

We had a gent have his Duramax towed in to the shop after filling it with gasoline. Yea he filled to full with gasoline in a diesel truck. Managed to drive just about half way home and it died. So went through the process of draining the fuel tank, disposing of the mixed fuel, and putting 10 gallons of fuel back in. Now Lindy ask me to change the filter. OMG! I'm looking at this going it going to be fun. Drain the filter and spun it off. Now how in the heck do you get it out. I finally figured if you drop it into the A arm on the passenger side then you can lay on the floor and lift it up and squeeze it back through the fender skirt. So now reverse process of installing. No fun at all. Then hearing about the price of a Duramax filter I about choked.

Most every knows I live up here in Idaho and most would think this far up north the summer would be rather mild. Well today when I left the shop the temp in the 1996 Dodge showed 108*F. Ugh... So what's every else seeing for temps?

Not that I know of. As far as I know its PSIa (atmosphere). Like I said it only a weird issue with the 24V Cummins.

I got a vehicle in the shop today that was a wiring nightmare. Easy fix but talk about "How not to wire a truck".

There is all kind of factor that could change it. But yeah I would have to say that's awfully weird to hit the same price.

Yes and no. From 0 to about 20 PSI its correct then slow there is a offset as you run outside the designed range of the sensor. As for SGII the newer software on the SGII does have boost gauge and do show correctly but again also has the same loss of accuracy as the Edge Juice. Outside the designed realm of the sensor.

I know the member is here on the site but who is the question.

You can try replacing the lift pump and see if you can gain some time from the VP44 but only the Good Lord knows if thee VP44 is damaged or not.

Check your fuses. Check your error codes there might be a clue there. Check your negative terminals. All grounds for the ECM, PCM and VP44 are in the battery cable there is no external body grounds.

Ummm... The PSG on top of the VP44 is overheating. Your WOT pressure needs to be above 14 PSI as a minimum. Idle doesn't count because the VP44 isn't under stress but WOT it being highly stressed electronics are creating more heat and the return flow to the tank is close at pressures below 14 PSI. So now you lost all cooling of the PSG.

Really common for fuel gauge to start showing higher level on the gauge when rheostat starts failing. Mine failed and was empty at 3/8 of a tank.

With all the changes it still doesn't do anything for long term storage of gasoline. As long as its stored in a vented tank then the fuel is going to go stale in a period of time. But air-tight container like my 55 gallon drum it will hold for a very very long time. Yes my bungs are o-ringed even and hold pressure or vacuum quite well.

Not sure why. But the SGII works just fine one all other vehicles. Just the 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins is skewed in value. I've not figured out why yet.