Mopar1973Man

Well Now that I've had my test run with the RV and the solar system and quite please so far. I'm now going to modify the system a bit more. Since my RV has a single breaker for all the wall outlet in the RV it gave me an idea. So what I'm going to do is wire in a home brew transfer switch for one circuit. For example I use this picture below which is a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch mine is a 30A with screw terminals. A. Hot leg of the inverter. B. Neutral leg of the inverter. C. Hot going to the RV. D. Neutral leg going to the RV. E. Hot leg of the city power. F. Neutral leg of the city power. What this will do is absolutely isolate the inverter from the city power and allow me to select what power source I want. I did a dry run with just using a old computer cord and wiring directly to the circuit. Presto! All outlets work and power anywhere in the RV. Even ended up having the bonus of the fridge being on that circuit too. But the fridge doesn't like my inverter complains about AC HI. So no biggy just force it to LP mode (propane) and not worry about it. Anyways it would eats the batteries in very short order. The little time I got the fridge to run the inverter handled the load but the volts where falling fast. So I got to pick up some small wiring supplies in the near future and finish this small project.

The only problem is you need deep pockets for the calibration machine (Bosch 815 Test Stand) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders

It's up to you. I don't look at pull the starter as being a big deal thing. Just a few bolts and nuts, out it comes. Contact kit would be my big thing but you might want to open the starter up and check the brushes too.

+50HP injector in my truck plus Edge Comp on 5x3 bury the the boost gauge at 35 PSI. No issues here.

Stock injectors should do about 28-30 PSI typically. I use to just tip in at 32 PSI.

You got to hold constant air to the system. Just like my video I hook up a regulated air hose to the system and leave it hooked up. Not like inflating a tire and expecting to hold air. There is all kinds of natural air leaks like past the rings so it will never hold air. That why you hook up to a constant air source.

Here is a older vid...

Normal not to hold boost. As soon as your foot leaves the pedal the drive pressure is gone so the turbo stops building and consumes the pressure instantly.

Not the pulley or bearing just the tensioner.

231k miles and still factory OE tensioner.

Ugly? It's the beer can special. It might be ugly but its true canopy does improve numbers rather quickly. Even my tonneau cover on the 96 improve it a bunch. Hey if I had more colors to chose from I would of used it.

With cruise set at 60 MPH in 5th gear 21.x MPG. Running around Sandpoint I got 23.x MPG. Then on my trip home 55 MPH in 4th Gear I got 24.x MPG. Let me know I'm sure I can make something happen. Turn back the sublevels till you get rid of most of your smoke. Like I told you the 5x3 isn't bad but 5x2 seems to lag more and 5x1 lags the worse. Time to shed your drag and get your efficiency up.

Needle valve on the fuel pressure gauge should be seated shut then cracked open barely so you have a 1-2 delay of the needle going from 0 to pressure. As for the regulator in in the AirDog pull it completely out and inspect the plunger and/seats for damage.

The offer is on the table... But I understand.

Don't sweat it. Do what you can we'll catch up later... I know. But as you get older you learn to work smarter not harder. I thought the wisdom is suppose to kick in?

The load of watts will remain the same but as you choke the cable size down the voltage drop occurs like joecool mentions then the amps must go up. Hence the heat. I know these are just calculated values but it shows how everything has to remain balanced. So if you cut volts then amps must rise to meet the watt load. Always best to have overly large cables and cut the loss. 12.6 Volts x 700 Amp = 8,820 Watts = 10.5 Volts x 840 Amp

Hmmm... You could drive another 12 hours and see me...

More I keep studying the EGT's are a sign of lost efficiency. Brake drag, transmission loss, oversized tires, excessive speed, etc. Even towing the RV 750-800*F at 55 MPH and keeping below 1,200*F on 7% grades. Like I said it not the turbo but the drag. Why is it I can do so well with 3" exhaust, +50HP injectors, no cold air intake, etc... Keep you thinking...

Sorry but no... The mighty Cummins can draw upwards of 700-800 Amp in the dead of winter where a mere 100-200 amp on a gasoline engine. Huge difference. If you did cheat the system and use gasoline cables you would find your cables most likely get hot and melting away from the huge current draw in the winter time. I would suggest welding cable and solder on copper ring terminals then using top post with marine studs. Much easier to maintain.

Think again. If I ever meet you you'll wonder about that statement.

Disconnect the batteries. Remove the starter. Unplug the crank sensor. Remove the one bolt holding the sensor. Remove sensor. Clean and lube the sensor hole. Install new sensor. Install starter. Hook up batteries. Relearn your APPS sensor. Still I would check error codes first before doing all this to find out the sensor is not the cause.

Just pressurize and listen you can miss a leaking air system boots or other wise.

Man I wish I would of known of this stuff back with my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon.

http://tax.idaho.gov/i-1119.cfm Now at half your tax rate but still more expensive think again... The lowest I see fuel on my trip was 3.849 and highest was 4.129 even back home in Riggins, ID was only 3.969...

Might be a good time to just pull it off the truck inspect it properly and then you could dip the tensioner into a small container of diesel fuel or waste engine oil to lube it up and see if that stops that problem.