Mopar1973Man

I wonder if the flapping sound was turbo bark. But the almost stalling has me stumped a bit unless the APPS sensor is not getting to Idle Position and setting the IVS.

Error Codes? Fuel Filter? (Yea, I know your pressure sounds good.) Turbo issues? Air Filter plugged up?

(Fly on the wall) I'm watching and learning.

Last trip to Ontario OR and back... Got $50 bucks of diesel in Weiser, ID. Running 60-65 MPH. But there is a small difference from Edge EZ and Edge Comp. MPG = Instant MPG Cmg = Current MPG for the Day Tmg = Total MPG for the tank Dte = Distance to Empty

My personal favorite is the Edge Comp. Best of both worlds plenty of power and better MPG's. The comp allows for in cab adjustment of power (25 levels) vs. EZ that is only 3 setting and mounted under the hood. http://edgeproducts.com/products/1998-5-2000-dodge-24-v-ez-5-9l--30200/ http://edgeproducts.com/products/1998-5-2000-dodge-24-v-comp-5-9l--30300/

Here is what I used to re-treat my roof on my RV. As for the tears or damage you should use a self-leveling Dicor sealant. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dicor-white-rubber-roof-acrylic-coating-gallon/32151

A lot of people tow 4 wheel drive vehicles behind RV's and over the road trucks and typically just toss the transfer case in neutral and tow on.

Correction... Just think though the money the oil companies, federal taxes, state taxes and special interest groups would lose if this took place. Like where I work at with Lindy the Landlord (Mike) has a shop full of collectable cars. I look at simple machine that we came from back in 1960-1970's to todays junk where you can even find the engine any longer so it meets EPA rules. The fact is that the better the efficiency of the vehicle, then less fuel your going to burn and less emissions (smog) your going to create. So I actually look back and forth between what we had back in the 1960-1970's to what we have in the 2000's is a utter and complete joke. Great ideas with computers and such but once again if the vehicles were efficient there wouldn't be any pollution nor any profit for others listed above.

Silly question why doesn't this trick come stock. Why do we have to add all the stuff we do to make things better? Because the EPA and smog rules. The government can careless if we efficient but as long as we meet EPA rule then they are happy. Just like the DPF's and EGR valves... Flash is only required for the high idle feature.

All right here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9042-gauge-time-isspro-ev2s/

Little Youtube searching...

Now that I've done the electronic gauges wit electric sender lets see how good I did and if I'll have any problems with my setup. I kept my needle valve, added the snubber as supplied with the ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge and also remote mounted the sender to the fender. (The old vibration story. ) All my tubing is still 1/8 air brake line. So far I've had zero issue with bouncing gauge reading and still right on the 16-17 PSI just like my old DiPricol gauge did for 10 years. But I've barely got the system setup so let some time go by and we'll see. But I'm also still leaning on the idea of cavitation with none returning pump vs. returning pump like my old AirDog.

Hey Randy, Pop testing injectors is typically free. It's only when the injector has to be tuned is when money comes out of pocket. Usually about $9 to $15 a injector. Through DAP its $71.50 a injector for RV275's. Through Vulcan Performance its $70.60 per injector.

I want to hear more... How about installing and fitting? How using what materials?

Myself included. I like to attempt to keep the truck looking good.

Thanks... Surprised how the bracket turned out and how well it fit under the hood.

Basically the clutch switch provides the ground or power to the starter solenoid relay. So I would suggest you fix the switch or replace it. I would test all thee fuses under the hood with a ohm meter and verify the fuses all have 0 ohms of resistance. I've seen fuses crack and become a open circuit and not appear blown with the black burn on the window.

Here is your P0237 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low This will give you all the diagnostics to test out everything...

I know that Dripley had done a full dash replacement (I'm pretty sure). There was a few other members that did caps on top.

JL Welding wanted me to post up for him. So here it is... http://www.yeahmotor.com/trucks/off-roading-rc-trucks-go-big-or-go-home/

That's why I always suggest pulling both the field leads (green and blue wires) and the alternator fuse because now both circuits are completely dead.

Like here is what I would pickup right now since its a fair price. It's universal coolant so it can go either way. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Antifreeze-Extended-Life-Universal-Gallon-Full-Strength/_/R-NAF1EXT_0417578537 A matter of fact we use the same stuff down at the shop.

I know LMC truck got something but their site is being slow for me right now.

Now you know why I did it. Being that even Eric was suggesting that I remote mount the fuel pressure sender off the engine. Might as well do both senders (boost pressure and fuel pressure).

This isn't caused from the coolant but the lack of changing the coolant. Over time the coolant becomes corrosive and starts eating metals in the cooling system. All the coolant does is prevent boiling and freezing. As for pH level that can only be resolved will system flushing. The coolant becomes corrosive from every time you crank the start your passing a high current through the block and charging the cooling which like a battery more the charge the more acidic and more dead the battery the more like distilled water.