Mopar1973Man

The outer shell is not true temperature. The bottom plate towards the fuel is actual temperature being the PSG is mounted to the fuel side. This is why any top mounted devices tend to be poor at best because transferring heat by air gap is slow. Aluminum, circuit board, air gap, plastic cover, aluminum cover again.

1/2 Gallon of drink water 1 MRE 1 Harbor Frieght pack of fuses (mini size) 1 Harbor Frieght pack of fuses (Standard size) 1 Windshield shade 1 Roll of toilet paper 1 Box of kleenex 1 fuel filter (AirDog) 1 Blanket (Dog's Blanket but could be used to keep you warm on a cold day) 1 first aid kit Behind driver seat (SAR's pack) 1 MRE 1 bag of hard candy 1/2 gallon of drinking water 1 sweat shirt jacket (safety yellow / reflective) 1 over coat (safety yellow / reflective) 1 poncho (cammo) 1 first aid kit 1 multi-tool 1 Plastic tube full of kitchen matches 1 Cigarette lighter 1 Magnesium and flint 1 Pair of Socks 1 Pair of gloves 1 cold weather cap You'll notice there is very little tools or parts carried in my truck. But now you see I worry more about my personal survival more so than the truck. At least I can abandon the truck and walk to safety. Remember I'm where there is no cell service and even limited radio signals at times. So far I've walked out the woods twice. Once when the PCM failed on the 96 Dodge walked about 4 miles. Then second time I got my 02 stuck in soft ground fully loaded with firewood and walked over 7 miles. Both times I've been lucky. Next time might not be as lucky and be happy I've got the SAR's bag behind my driver seat. As a matter of fact you can see my SAR's bag in my Avatar...

Take notice to the wiring diagram. Upper right corner is the fuel heater. Neither am I but all I can do is chuck out the conditions and what I don't into the pile and see if brings more information to the table. IAT fooling has nothing to do with fuel temps the only thing I made sure of is 14+ PSI fuel pressure. As long as the overflow valve is open return flow will occur. OVERFLOW VALVE DESCRIPTION The overflow valve is located on the side of the injection pump (Fig. 58). It is also used to connect the fuel return line (banjo fitting) to the fuel injection pump. OPERATION Fuel volume from the fuel transfer (lift) pump will always provide more fuel than the fuel injection pump requires. The overflow valve (a check valve) is used to route excess fuel through the fuel return line and back to the fuel tank. Approximately 70% of supplied fuel is returned to the fuel tank. The valve opens at approximately 97 kPa (14 psi). If the check valve within the assembly is sticking open, fuel drainage of the injection pump could cause hard starting. So with the bold RED statement keeping fuel pressure up above 14 PSI will ensure the flow is continued. So now the fuel tank is your radiator/cooler and with a full tank of fuel it can absorb a large amount of heat before the tank warms up.

I stand corrected W&F... Thank you.

Katoom I've got to make you think. Why is it I have summer temperatures of 105-115*F here in Idaho and have absolutely no issues with fuel cooking the VP44? I have no special coolers on my VP44. No blowers, heat sinks, coolers, radiators, etc. Nothing... The only change to the fuel system is AirDog 150 that's it. It not that my truck get light duty either I tow on grades as steep as 16%. Haul either a utility trailer or my RV. Still all done in 105-115*F temperatures. This VP44 has 185k miles and still going strong.

Fuel heater is not controlled by VP44 fuel temp sensor nor the IAT. It's thermostatically controlled within the fuel filter housing. From the FSM... FUEL HEATER DESCRIPTION The fuel heater assembly is located on the side of the fuel filter housing (Fig. 9). The heater/element assembly is equipped with a temperature sensor (thermostat) that senses fuel temperature. This sensor is attached to the fuel heater/element assembly. OPERATION The fuel heater is used to prevent diesel fuel from waxing during cold weather operation. When the temperature is below 45 Ϯ8 degrees F, the temperature sensor allows current to flow to the heater element warming the fuel. When the temperature is above 75 Ϯ8 degrees F, the sensor stops current flow to the heater element. Battery voltage to operate the fuel heater element is supplied from the ignition switch and through the fuel heater relay. Also refer to Fuel Heater Relay. The fuel heater element and fuel heater relay are not computer controlled. The heater element operates on 12 volts, 300 watts at 0 degrees F.

No. The engine temperature will only slightly rise at 1,200*F going up a grade. I typically run 4th gear at 53-55 MPH holding 1,100-1,200*F and engine coolant temperature will only slightly rise like 205*F for me. Pyrometer is the safest bet for monitoring cylinder/exhaust temperatures.

Well I guess now you can have one of the professionals now build it right.

Take a peek under about a 2006 or so Duramax and see how they made there fuel cooler but you won't be happy. It will work but if you drive in the mud at all it will plug the cooler up. Topic split for you...

I've got 5V at the sensor plug and the P0533 code is return on the next key cycle. We've got a new sensor on order (not cheap) and it requires a pigtail because the new sensor is round plug vs. the original which is square 2x2 setup with only 3 pins used. I just figure I would pop this out hoping anyone has dealt with this or seen it before.

3 wire pressure transducer.

I would like to verify with the gang here its a simple transducer on the high side pipe that needs replacing for 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins. No compressor and there is 100 psi of Freon in the system. But I'm getting P0533 code of A/C transducer hi volt.

1. Yes the port is completely open. 2. Yes there was 15+ PSI at the time of the video. 3. Fuel pressure is mechanical gauge (no sensor) so that is actual input pressure to the pump. The problem is you got to start the flow of fuel from the front of the pump and work your way all the way back to the rear of the pump. So now the fuel has to pass through the vane pump, then all the galleys to the rotor and then when the rotor is done then the excess fuel is sent towards the overflow valve.

Jump right on in and start posting up tips and tricks. What do you know that might help others?

Here is a graphical view of our weather...

Here is the vids...

Now add the Idaho smog...

Another good question is your pyrometer before the turbo or after? is it in the 1, 2, 3 or 4, 5, 6 bank?

There is something to note here dead pedal is when the pedal is dead no throttle just idle. But now limited pedal is a different story which I've found to be a ECM issue typically. I would start with check all grounds to the batteries and the AC noise voltage of the alternator and go from there. Is there any error codes? How about fuel pressure too?

Really common over on the RV forum I moderate on to see people getting Ford Eco-boost trucks (little 1/2 ton) and attempting to tow a 35-40 foot 5th wheel. Just about 90% of them come back telling tales of white knuckle trips. I'm not saying it can't be done... But what quality of towing are you going to have with a short wheel base? Depends on configurations, weights and total length of trailer. Kind of like Hex0rz trailer / truck combo. His trailer is a monster compared to his little 3/4 ton truck. Another one that comes to mind is Dripley with his monster 5th wheel. But I think he's set properly and travel long distances with his. Another example I can load my BigTex with firewood and be nearly the same weight of my RV and be able to tow it with my little 1/2 ton truck and not even think about it. But now take the length of my RV and same weight my little 1/2 ton couldn't even imagine the idea of towing now. (Tail wagging the Dog). Again its about configuration, weight, length of trailer.

Sound like your just flat out towing way too fast. I don't trust a EGT gauge right up to the last degree I always try for a 100-150*F under 1,200-1,250*F which me error to the side of safety. Also I would never tow over a grade in top gear I always back down hook up with 1:1 ratio (5th gear for 6 speed and 4th gear for 5 speeds) and tow at a much lower speed which reduces EGT's, Coolant temps, and increases the boost pressure. Sounds like its time to pull the engine out and rebuild...

Moved to Government & Politics... Some have voice there opinions about this topic...

Since about 2am last night it been nothing but "Rumble, Crash and Flash" a little rain and a light breeze. Like I said I've stocked up on both fuels gasoline and diesel both. These drums are air tight so fuel last MUCH MUCH longer being gasoline like to evaporate. As for the drums I picked them up from my local oil distributor for $20 dollars a piece. The drums had clean engine oil in them. As of this morning I turned off the sprinklers and turn back on the pelton wheel. Creek is getting really low. Gotta keep on a eye on my water flow up there now.

It's almost 9pm at night still 82*F in the house and it might make it down to 75-76*F by morning.

There was but I've never heard of a 4" diameter can being added to the system too. Pictures would solve this quickly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather