Mopar1973Man

TIPM??? Ok.. Never mind got the answer... Thank gawd for acronym function.

Still 130*F is nothing... Even my CPU in my desktop get's hotter.

I personally can see the heat soak issue with a factory lift pump (35 GPH) with fuel pressures between 8-13 PSI. With the lower fuel pressure you couldn't wash out the heat in a timely manner. But now like myself I've got a idle pressure of 17 PSI and WOT PSI of 15 PSI which is not a issue with holding the overflow valve open and wash the heat out in a very fast manner. Even after driving in 100*F heat barely 130*F after shut down isn't a issue. Even 10 minutes of heat soak still at 130*F. But again I'm on top of my truck and keep it right. But now looking at the average Joe Farmer stock fuel system, stock filter, weak lift pump. Oh yeah... Your going to have heat soak and tough time cooling the PSG unit. Then again I've got a 10 year old VP44 still running strong with 183k miles on it. So how much is it design issues, owner issues, or plain ol' don't care...

Well the owner came back to have this issue dealt with. Changed the A/C Transducer and the plug. (Not cheap either). But the code remains. 5 Volt at the plug. Ground appears good, But still having issues. So the owner has been referred to another shop with a bit more high tech scanners and computer tools. The funny part is this other shop happen to have another Dodge in the same year with the same problem and required to have the PCM reflashed. (Internal software issue?)

Between work and chasing fire calls I'm a bit slow to respond... It should be in the archive of threads here...

Birthday present... Don't know...

Here is a old TDR oil testing results... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=17565

Yes a bad crank sensor will prevent the VP44 from firing because the ECM doesn't see the engine turning so the VP44 won't fire.

One person I need to get on this thread is Dorkweed that ran 84,000 miles on a single oil change with cheap ol' Walmart oil.

Not suppose to hold pressure after the pump shuts down.

I typically disconnect the batteries (Positive cable) and charge my batteries. I know that most battery chargers are rather dirty DC power. You would have to use shielded cable to prevent the noise injection of the sensor.

Now thinking about that my little trip back to Burgdorf will make you think. To this day there is no city power back there at all. Everything is either all solar or gasoline generator. Being Warren, ID is even farther back and started this area back in the 1870's these people lived without modern anything and still do. Like stopping Secesh Meadows was a real treat being the bar was open and owner was remodeling. Most all lighting in the bar was either 12V or propane. As for fridge I'm not sure what they got... But there is a little village back there without modern city power and live to this day without it. Hex just make a trip down to me I'll show you around to places and people that live without power (or other modern stuff).

Good morning Pollock, Idaho. Yuck!

Thanks Katoom... As for the PSG failure I do think there is a certain amount of failure from heat, then a certain amount of failure from AC noise, then another amount from physical abuse/vibration. Ed brings up the topic of the junk lead free solder. But if you watch some of the videos where people replace the transistor they will talk about the legs of the OE transistor being aluminum (or a alloy of some type). Solder won't stick to it. Make you wonder about what was use on the OE.

You should see it now this morning I can barely see the next ridge north of me. Every morning the inversion sets in and lays the smoke down good. Naw... This is all lodge pole. A lot of people like this stuff I feel there is just too much saw work for such a little piece. I'll still burn it. But I would cut either 4 foot or 8 foot poles and haul them out. Then I have to buck it up again at home.

Might want to look at this...

Hard on my system being I've got the stock filter can so the fuel in the fuel filter can is going to be warm and not shock the VP44 on restart. Where someone that deleted the can might see this issue. (But again this all theory right now.) I've worked with Ed and also tried working with ScanGauge II on getting fuel temp for the ScanGauge. They just don't want to help me with the old school ISO bus system they would rather only support the newer CANBUS systems.

You can put it in the 123 side or just move all the way up against turbo on the 456 port. If its truly welded up properly that should all be one piece of metal once again so it should be good to drill and tap again. Another idea is to just replace the manifold but they are not cheap.

Last Batch...

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Well MoparMom and Myself had go out of the house for day trip to Burgdorf and Secesh Meadows, ID. Here is a pile of pictures from our trip.

Now that where you got to study up on diodes and the alternator brushes and see what the impact could be. So far my truck under a cold start <60*F with grid heater might have a slight surge to .6 but its so fast of change my fluke meter has a hard time catching it. A analog meter would most likely show it better but finding a multi-frequency analog meter is tough.

I just pull out the fluke meter now and then and check the voltage and move on...