Mopar1973Man

There is all kind of factor that could change it. But yeah I would have to say that's awfully weird to hit the same price.

Yes and no. From 0 to about 20 PSI its correct then slow there is a offset as you run outside the designed range of the sensor. As for SGII the newer software on the SGII does have boost gauge and do show correctly but again also has the same loss of accuracy as the Edge Juice. Outside the designed realm of the sensor.

I know the member is here on the site but who is the question.

You can try replacing the lift pump and see if you can gain some time from the VP44 but only the Good Lord knows if thee VP44 is damaged or not.

Check your fuses. Check your error codes there might be a clue there. Check your negative terminals. All grounds for the ECM, PCM and VP44 are in the battery cable there is no external body grounds.

Ummm... The PSG on top of the VP44 is overheating. Your WOT pressure needs to be above 14 PSI as a minimum. Idle doesn't count because the VP44 isn't under stress but WOT it being highly stressed electronics are creating more heat and the return flow to the tank is close at pressures below 14 PSI. So now you lost all cooling of the PSG.

Really common for fuel gauge to start showing higher level on the gauge when rheostat starts failing. Mine failed and was empty at 3/8 of a tank.

With all the changes it still doesn't do anything for long term storage of gasoline. As long as its stored in a vented tank then the fuel is going to go stale in a period of time. But air-tight container like my 55 gallon drum it will hold for a very very long time. Yes my bungs are o-ringed even and hold pressure or vacuum quite well.

Not sure why. But the SGII works just fine one all other vehicles. Just the 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins is skewed in value. I've not figured out why yet.

What your fuel pressure at WOT at highway speed?

Here is the diagnostic article. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/163-p0222-idle-validation-both-low DTC P0222: IDLE VALIDATION SIGNALS BOTH LOW Monitor & Set Conditions Idle validation signals are monitored when ignition is on and engine is running. DTC P0222 may be stored if Engine Control Module (ECM) senses no voltage signal or the same voltage from Idle Validation Switch (IVS) No. 1 and IVS No. 2. DTC P0223 may be stored if ECM senses the same voltage from IVS No. 1 and IVS No. 2. Possible Causes Accelerator Pedal Position Switch (APPS) Idle Validation Switch (IVS) No. 2 Harness Short To Ground APPS IVS No. 2 Shorted To APPS Return Circuit APPS IVS No. 2 Shorted To APPS Sensor Ground IVS No. 2 Open Between APPS And ECM Harness Connectors APPS IVS No. 1 Shorted To APPS Sensor Ground APPS IVS No. 1 Shorted To APPS Return Circuit APPS IVS No. 1 Harness Short To Ground IVS No. 1 Open Between APPS And ECM Harness Connectors IVS No. 1 Circuit Open ECM Testing 1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at APPS harness connector. Repair as necessary. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector. This is the IVS No. 1 circuit. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 8 . 2. With engine idling, using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. This is the IVS No. 2 circuit. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, test is complete. 3. Turn ignition off. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, go to step 7 . 4. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. 5. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Light Green/Dark Blue wire and Black/Yellow wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. 6. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) and terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Light Green/Dark Blue wire and Black/Light Blue wire. If continuity does not exist, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 7. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check continuity of Light Green/Dark Blue wire between terminal No. 2 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 16 on ECM harness connector. If continuity exists, test is complete. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. 8. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, go to step 12 . 9. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Check for continuity between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) and terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Brown/Orange wire and Black/Light Blue wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. 10. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Brown/Orange wire and Black/Yellow wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. 11. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Brown/Orange wire. If continuity does not exist, test is complete. 12. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Check Brown/Orange wire for continuity between terminal No. 6 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 1 on ECM harness connector. If continuity exists, test is complete. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Brown/Orange wire between APPS and ECM.

Redneck method... I normally pull the steering gear box off the truck. Loosen the pitman arm nut. Then remove the sector adjust cover. Remove the nut from the pitman arm. Then with a 2x4 and small sledge drive the output shaft out of the pitman arm. No special puller required. But hey that's how this Idaho Redneck does things...

Well I've got two 55 gallon drum on the property filled with both gasoline and diesel fuel. Use a barrel pump and pump out the needed amount of fuel for generators, ATV, vehicles, etc. I've found that as long as your drums have sealing lids the fuel will last a very long time. So now back to your RV. Both tanks are vented so if you would to fill the tank and leave the fuel for a very long time then the fuel would most likely go bad. Like here I've got a 6,500w gasoline generator which holds about 3 gallons of fuel. I "try" to make a habit of running the generator once or twice a month. This allows the engine to get exercised and slowly consume a bit of fuel to allow the fuel tank to be freshen often. When I'm done running the generator I turn off the fuel leave the ignition alone. Wait.... Wait... Soon enough the carburetor runs out of fuel and the generator is ready for storage. So in your case I would consider the aux suction more so to hopefully keep from worrying about stale fuel in the generator tank or the storage tank. Like I said if the fuel is stored in a air tight container it will last a very long time but vented tank you have to consume the fuel at some point because the fuel will go bad. So reconsider your storage of your fuel.

Typically they are just little metal clips in the tray as shown in the PDF above. I usually will put a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads, then install. But also make it a maintenance thing to dribble engine oil down the bolts so the bolts don't corrode from the battery acid. To this day my bolts are unharmed the clips are still 100% great condition.

Nope its not broken the 24V engines have a voltage offset that creates this issue. The early versions have a different voltage span vs the later versions witch now have a different span. So the numbers on scan tools are skewed out. I've got 2 sensors with the same numbers. No error codes. Best I can say is look at the series of different MAP sensors on the 24V. There was like 3 different ones but the 01 and 02 are the same and interchangeable with each other as long as you used a adapter cable. (Pins where different). Just a modified MAP sensor voltage. This is only a 24V issue. Corrected after 03... LOL... Smoke switch. I've played with that and it just buried the SG to 37.3 PSIa and stopped. But now look at my Version of SG vs. the new version of SG (software wise) they do have a valid boost gauge now vs. mine which had this skewed MAP reading.

Confirmed on the boost...

Starter kit. (At least what I picked up) http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-68751-8527.html http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-watt-continuous2400-watt-peak-power-inverter-69659-8890.html Mopar Mom wants me to build another soon for the guest house for keeping the refrigerator going and a few extra watts for other things down there. I'm thinking like 2-4 deep cycle batteries, solar kit again, 2kw inverter.

I still running the standard deep cycle batteries on the RV which where brand new when I bought the RV. So when these batteries die I'll replace them with better. But it might be some time being I typically get 10 years from batteries. Even the massive batteries for the house only last 1 day without any charge source. (4kw inverter @ 120 VAC) What I call dead is 11.5 Volts (12 Volt System) and 23.0 Volts (24 Volt System). I cut it short to prevent plate damage to the batteries. I know 12V can be taken as low as 10.8 but its risky and could cause permanent damage.

Up here in my neighborhood...

I still say EGT's gauge is a safe bet to have. No UG doesn't support anything that doesn't already exist on the truck. So if the pyrometer isn't there and readable by the ECM then the UG isn't going to see it. UG/SG can only see what the engine sees including the errors created by poor wiring and bad sensors. Even on my fully stock 2002 I've seen 1,400*F completely stock (absolutely no mods) climbing a 6-7% grade towing a flatbed trailer with a Chevy truck on the back. No boost leaks either. Typically this is the cause of most exhaust manifold crack problem is excessive exhaust temps cause from a driver without a EGT gauge. Yes this does happen on stock trucks too. Boost is seen because the MAP sensor is already supplied with the engine. But be warned MAP/Boost reading typically are not accurate on the upper end of the scale above about 20-25 PSI. Some have seen where the SG/UG will vary from a mechanical gauge on the upper scale. I personally suggest full mechanical gauge to be the safest choice. UG/SG is OK for daily driver for boost gauge. But as for EGT's the only solution is a separate gauge. I do suggest a EGT's gauge if you plan on towing or hauling heavy at all. You'll be surprised what a true stock engine can produce for EGT's. (Yeah I know this is 3rd Gen but I'm like Dorkweed rather error toward the side of safety!)

You'll be surprised what these trucks will pack if you allow them to work at slower rates. I'm sure you did just fine being slow and taking your time...

Heck no... I use propane heated water in the RV. In the stick and bricks I use electric to heat my water.

That's where I get hung up. Here is Russ where he not putting any stress on the frame horns and has a requirement for a gear box brace. Here I am back in the back country going from lock to lock turning around on narrow dirt roads, tight switch backs, ruts you name and don't need gear box brace. So can someone explain the requirements for needing a gear box brace because I'm missing something here. I could understand if you leveraging again the front tire is so excess that you flexing the frame horns. Russ is a pavement queen for the most part. The only thing I can come up with Russ issues would be the excessive amount of rust might of weaken the frame or other pivots. Like his rear axle issue earlier where it jumped the perch.

RV came with two 12V batteries and that's it. No other means of charging. So once you unhooked from the truck there was only battery power. So if you want to stay longer than 1 night you would have to hook up the trailer plug and idle the truck, or bring a generator, or solar. Since both a generator or the truck use fuel and make noise solar is silent. As for the trailer again it had no 120V power on board so you left with a generator or a inverter. Again generator requires fuel and makes noise where a inverter is silent. You got to think about the fuel issue and the noise issue. Then look at the solar/inverter as a solution to both. As for the panels yes I got to fold the legs up and put them in the RV before we go. (thieft issue).

I tend to look at it a different way. Since I've lighten up my tires (235/85 R16) and lighten up the wheels (16x7.5 to 16x7 Aluminum) I've never had any stress on the front steering components. Even with all my offroad use, heavy hauling of firewood, and rough roads (washboarded & potholes) absolutely no steering issues. Gearbox is still tight.