Mopar1973Man

Like I learned from the RV275's I got from CajFlynn. Just because they all popped about 290-295 bar (little low) still good to go. By the next year they had dropped off to 240 bar on the lowest injector. When they where inspection in Lewiston, ID there was shims that where wore down, pintles where seated deeper in the nozzle from wear. So now between the shim wear and the nozzle wear will give that slack for change in pop pressure. Now even with new nozzles if the shims are worn your still going to be off in pressure. So more or less you got a fresh tip but the rest of it worn and might not match perfectly (305-310 bar).

From small changes is length of the pintle needle and/or seat depth. Maybe the owners shims are already worn too. That why there is different sized shims for tuning the pop pressure so that all injectors are evenly match in pressures. It's always being suggest in pop testing all injectors after nozzle install.

Sensors... If its front sensor you must replace both as a matched set. Rear sensor the speedometer will act weird or not work at all. G101 - Left Fender Side Shield

Once your done changing nozzles now you got to send all six injectors out and and have them pop tested. You can't just change nozzles without having them re-pop tested. Usually make nozzle sets higher in price once you figure in pop testing and tuning. Locally its $15 a injector to be tuned.

CajFlynn is on Facebook quite regular. Still hauling boats... https://www.facebook.com/FlynnMarineTransport

Here is the spec book for it... Not much difference between 2500 and the 3500 series for load capacities...

Well I can't answer how to get at it really my AirDog is not on the frame. But yes it's in the return line just take the fitting out of the pump and the spring and ball are just inside the housing of the pump. Mine is the forward fitting on the rail side. I typically use a 3/4" wrench remove the JIC elbow and then a deep well socket remove the fitting.

Too good of a article to loose. Pinned to the top! Thanks for the wonderful write up I'll soon have you place it over in the article database.

Out here anti-seize is your friend. I use anti-seize on just about all hardware under a truck at work and at home. As for removal I would do like MoparTech said drill the head out till they let go. I'm pretty sure most hardware stores have those kinds of screws/bolts.

Take your spring and slightly egg shape the last coil the ball is going to sit on. Then the very tip say 1/8 of the bend in a 90* angle inwards to the coil so the ball can't wedge down into the coils.

I tend to agree with AH64ID about the gearing. It would really wake up any rig changing from 3.55 to 4.10 gears in the axle(s). Now ol' CajFlynn has been using 3.73 gears for towing and enjoyed them for the life of his 2001 Dodge till it finally gave it last breathe at 1.3 million. (Vehicle accident)

Remove the slave cylinder before installing the transmission again. This will allow for the fork to stay back to the housing while installing the input shaft. As for your pictures there is a lot of oil around the clutch.

That's a big slice of pie right there. Dodge Cummins will around for a long time kind of like the 60's and 70's muscle cars. I think this is the playground our trucks are now heading towards and why the prices are still high. Heck all the trucks you see now are barely 150-250k miles on the clock anyone that knows a 1st or 2nd Gen is barely getting started in life. The big problem is trying to find a truck body and interior that isn't ate to hell and back.

I can tell you Hex0rz has a huge 5th wheel. Thing is most people tend to forget about axle weight and vehicle design weight. Like Hex0rz is most likely over his rear axle weight limit (can't remember). Then most all Dodge Truck of the 2nd Gen realm are designed for about 13,400 pounds of trailer even the 1 ton's are the same weight.

Stock lift pump ground is behind the starter bolted to the block. The Raptor ground can be tied to the battery but I typically use a body ground instead.

I've got to lube mine in the future when I get time to work on it...

I'm a 31' travel trailer I'm scaled at 8,020 pounds fully loaded with water and all. GVW 8,500# http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs

Time to consider doing all the crossover tube o-rings and doubles checking all the sealing washer on the return lines at VP44 and return rail at the rear of the head. Then there is 3 square cut o-rings on the return tee that might be leaking.

I typically would only disconnect one cable, clean and re-hook up. That way I don't wipe out the customers radio presets and clock on the stereo. But if you take care of the terminal correctly you'll never have to remove the cable expect to replace the batteries. Like myself I never had to clean my terminals yet to this day and they never corrode. All I do is light coat with fresh engine oil and even look back.

Either you have a vacuum motor under the battery or you don't. The APPS sensor on a fly by wire only has one cable the throttle from the pedal that's it.

Yeah... Mine is a manual and all fly-by-wire so there is no vacuum motor. All my steering wheel controls seem to be working just fine. Accelerate, coast, cancel, on/off and set. I was playing with the controls while driving to try and diagnose but all of the controls work. Once again no vacuum motor and not a automatic transmission... I'm a manual with fly-by-wire cruise control.

I just remembered I had a weird thing happen and can't explain nor has it occured again. While I was towing my traveel trailer this last trip I had my cruise set for 55 MPH cruising towards Emmett, ID. It was really strange it was like someone lifting and stomping the throttle in a really jerky up down random cycle. Now remember I'm a fly by wire system no vacuum motor cruise. As for error codes there is none I check while driving (Scan Gauge II). As for the APPS sensor it shows 0 while cruise is active there is no signal (Scan Gauge II). I tested my alternator noise once I got to Emmett, ID and it was a normal 0.023 to 0.027 AC volts. After being shut down for the night I've never experienced it again.

I tend to wonder about some part and why they fail. Is the failure from something the owner is doing or not doing? (Not pointing fingers but looking at why's). Like why is it that NAPA sells fuel shut solenoid for these prices but LarryB sells a cheaper one but its a better solenoid? Just because its OEM or higher price doesn't exactly state the quality of the part. Just food for thought...

Typical shop protocol is to order the parts regardless if you need them or not because you can always return them. You can't fix anything if you don't have the parts. I was lucky and only needed screws. But now seeing my contacts it looks like maybe another year and it will be time for another set of LarryB's contact's again too.

Well again I lost my starter fuse at the worst time. Grrr! Ok don't panic we know the drill. I created a temp fuse from a aluminum twist tie. Got it start hitched up the RV and kept it running. On my way home I made a call to Lindy and let him know I'm going to pick up a starter. So on my way into McCall I picked up a starter and a fuse. So I kept it running and towed the RV home and unhitched. Still kept it running then bolted for Lindy's shop. So I grabbed the bay and proceeded to pull it out till I was getting burnt on the last bolt. Time to let it cool off. Long story short I got the starter out and the solenoid cover lost its 3 screw and the plunger was hanging out. So I replaced the 3 screws and reinstalled my starter and saved me the money on the starter wish will now be returned to NAPA.