Mopar1973Man

Possibly. But I doubt it though...

I typically stay away from HOAT (Orange coolant). I tend to gravitate to the Yellow Universal or Green that was original to the truck. Yellow will mix with both and very very common out here locally. Green is a bit less common and can only be mixed with yellow. Orange (HOAT) is very rare and expensive also can be mixed with yellow but prefer to keep the coolant changed so the pH level stay closer to 7.

By chance do you have more of these?

No different that my 5 mile round trip of plowing driveways with my ATV in the winter time. It's only cold till you say, "Snowmobile" then its no longer cold.

Personally I coat everything in engine oil. Grease is absolutely messy next time you lean your arm on the battery or your chest. (Yuck!) As for the boil over you need to verify the voltage of the batteries and make sure they are not over charging. Might check for error codes (battery temp sensor). Might pull the driver side battery out and check the battery temperature sensor for damage. This is what controls the charge rate of the alternator. The colder the battery the more voltage and the warmer the battery the lower the voltage. This prevents the alternator from over-charging the batteries causing the boil over.

Time to do some alternator bench testing. That would be my first thing. Second I would check the blue wire for matching positive voltage of the battery. The green wire is the variable ground from the the PCM controlling the field. Then I would do a voltage drop on the charge lead to verify the lead not damaged or weak. How about battery terminals and main cables? I've seen butt load of vehicles with absolutely mutilated terminals and wires corroded.

Any error codes?

The Brown Truck came! Well I managed to rough my gauges in tonight and I'll get them finished up at work in the morning. They are functional and appear to react with some delay. But I notice in the program software there is a value for adjusting the update delay. I also love the red warning lights I will be getting a USB program cord very very soon. As for getting the old DiPricols out that was a feat of magic. Got all the old plumbing, tubing and electrical out. Then started stringing wires. Like I said I roughed in every thing tonight I'll get my bracket mounted in and then get all the wiring tied up neatly. But I got to admit the EV2's are worlds over the old school DiPricol's I had. Now lets see if all my design work pan out for another 10 years of gauge service.

Hell no. I still argue with my boss about selling K&N filters. (Gag! ) Mopar1973Man -> <-TexasCTD

From what I know... You could contact Bob Wagner with Smarty and tell him what you need for ECM software, he can load up a Smarty with the needed software and mail it to you. http://shop.wagnerandassociates.biz/main.sc

Fuel system not air system. I've seen a few older Ford 7.3L now that have the ability to hold prime just fine be pull a continuous air stream into the injection pump causing it to run rough and skip. Depending on load and fuel flows.

Rancher do the same up here leaving the hood propped out half way. Same issues here with mice eat anything under the hood. As for RV's I find that it best NOT to bait ot trap inside the RV but outside the RV. Last thing you want to do is make the mice work harder to find the bait in it a trap or poison box. If your patient enough you'll be able to find all the holes the mice are coming through and be able to fill them with hardware mesh and expanding foam.

Here you go... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boxelder_bug

Well at 55-65 MPH it showing 200*F some days it normal other days its half. Connections are all tight. Thermocouple is still in one piece. But the gauges are 10 years old now and time to upgrade. I've repair the boost gauge twice. I've had to carefully remove the front glass and re-tighten 2 screws holding the face on. Yes. these gauges have served me well for 10 years...

Possible air leak? Thinking out loud...

Bummer... Email from UPS... Scheduled for... Friday, 10/10/2014

Bingo. Eric was advising me to relocate the fuel pressure sensor away from the engine but I wanted a nice bracket for bottom sensors. This was a solution for more than just EV2's but all electric gauges that get ground from the body. So after talking to him about it Eric produced the beta bracket and we'll see how it does. I didn't want to zip tie the sensor to the cowl (lame...).

According to UPS its suppose to be here today. As for the beta test bracket.

Dang that went fast... Price was right...

Dang it... They left Monday morning. Oh well. I'll order the cable later on this winter. As for a surprise I've got a custom bracket coming for both my boost sensor and my fuel pressure sender. It's one of a kind and might be a new part supplied by Eric at Vulcan Performance. Cure all the poor ground issues and remote mounting of the senders. More to come...

I've used expanding foam and hardware mesh on my RV and no longer having a mouse problem at all. No traps, no ultrasonics, no poison bait, nothing!

Tell more... Warning lights?

Partially. The other part is physical warm air getting to the engine. Might not be as warm but still warmer than minus what ever. All my problem are just common driving here in Idaho no towing. I always remove the covers from the grill if towing because now over heat does occur with both IAT and ECT. Remember climbing grade are not done at 65-70 MPH they are done at much slower speeds with winter conditions so pyrometer heat can be present and climb quite high on some grade once again no towing. (1,000 to 1,100*F)

It's a done deal... The order is placed and they are on the way from Vulcan Performance. On top of that I think I might of created another product with Eric to resolve the fuel pressure sender and boost sender placement so they are not on the block but on a rigid mounting bracket and good good plane. So more to come about that...

Well this is kind of the reason I'm planing on doing the electric gauges and see if I can find way to resolving some of these weird issues. I'll always have my old school mechanical gauge as well but let's see what I can figure out for the electric gauge. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9042-gauge-time/